Bottom Paint and Shaft Logs

JC · Post by JC » Sep 21st, '06, 16:24

Hi there. Two different issus.

1- Shaft Logs

Turns out I got a call from our captain saying that the bolts from the shaft logs are squirting water out while the boat is running. He says they wont leak once the boat is sitting. I am worried about it. Is this common?? What is the fix??

2- Bottom Paint

How much paint does it take to do a bottom job on a B31??

Thanks for your time.

JC

RussP · Post by **RussP** » Sep 21st, '06, 16:37

We had a water fountain in our 63 SF while underway. I glassed in 3" fiberglass tubes and went with dripless seals. It brought the boat into the 20th century. I have the old bronze logs if anyone wants them.

A gallon & a 1/2 should be enough paint to do the bottem.

RussP

CaptPatrick · Post by **CaptPatrick** » Sep 21st, '06, 17:11

JC,

The old bronze shaft logs are a source of evils which can even include damage to the hull fiberglass through electrolisis.

As a standard rule I remove the bronze alleys and replace with fiberglass tubes as Russ mentioned. See the Tips Section on Fiberglass Shaft Log Replacement...

Br,

Patrick

JC · Post by JC » Sep 21st, '06, 17:42

Thanks for the answers. THese are the shaft logs.

I will try and do the fiberglass project at some time...

for now I will just fix this problem since I need to get the boat done quickly...

This is a picture of the shaft logs... what is the correct way of fixing this???

Thanks,

JC

In Memory Walter K · Post by **In Memory Walter K** » Sep 21st, '06, 22:00

My experience with bottom paint has been one gallon and one quart. Walter

Bruce · Post by **Bruce** » Sep 22nd, '06, 05:36

Unless you know exactly where its leaking, removal of box clean off all that crap and rebed.

That bedding job shows its leaked before and was Ru Goldberg'd.

Trouble is some of that caulking could be hiding a deteriation of metal.

Ain't nothin like seein your boat sitting on the bottom and sayin, I should a taken care of that leak.

Rawleigh · Post by **Rawleigh** » Sep 22nd, '06, 07:54

If you can't haul it, at least tighten the bolts.

JC · Post by JC » Sep 22nd, '06, 10:38

OK. Sounds like I need to get the boat out of the water and do the job ASAP. I dont know of any professional here that can do it. I could probably do it. Is it an easy job?? Is there a forum discussion were it explains the steps to do this?? If I take out shaft log I need to take the entire shaft out?? Right?? Help please... some pointers would be most welcome....

JC

RussP · Post by **RussP** » Sep 22nd, '06, 16:31

When I removed mine the outside flatstock was so brittle it came apart in pieces. You may want to replace them when rebeding.
RussP

Bruce · Post by **Bruce** » Sep 22nd, '06, 19:02

JC,
On the underside of the boat is two metal strips on each side under the stuffing box.
This supports the heads of the screws, ie acts as a strip washer.

The screws go up into the stuffing box on each side as you can see in your picture.

Remove all screws. Will take two people. One underneath, one above.

Once all screws are removed, gently pry the strip washers off. Metal is soft so be carefull.

Then loosen packing nut. Insert stiff blade scraper in between stuffing box and hull to break bedding. Once loose slip stuffing box up shaft and out of way. Clean off bedding on hull then spin stuffing box around and do the same.

Lay bead of 4200 around hull opening and slide box down in place.
Lay bead on washer strips and screws and insert and tighten.

Check all metal for deterioration.
If a problem don't reuse.

Clean off excess bedding compound.

Don't forget to tighten packing nuts.

JC · Post by JC » Sep 23rd, '06, 13:25

Thanks BRuce!!! Thats was a great explanation. Seems prety straight forward. I have a doubt what the 42000 is?? I am assuming its an epoxy?? Is there any other brand or substitute so that I can start looking for this in EL Salvador???

THanks for all the help!!!

Thats why this is the best site...

JC

Bruce · Post by **Bruce** » Sep 24th, '06, 14:33

4200 is the fast set version of 5200.
It will cure in about 24 to 48 hours allowing for a faster launch after you are done.

Trey Dibrell · Post by **Trey Dibrell** » Sep 24th, '06, 20:20

I hate to disagree with the King Bruce, but 4200 is the lower adhesive version of 5200. It is designed for things that might have to be removed.

Both the 5200 and the 4200 come in a fast cure version.

Da Judge

JC · Post by JC » Sep 26th, '06, 15:12

HI There. I have been in touch with 3M in El Salvador and they say they dont bring the 4200 or the 5200 to the country. They do offer 3m 8664 marine silicone. That wouldnt cut it right??

What other brands or substitutes can be recomended. If someone can explain the properties of 4200 and 5200 I can probably search for a similar product. Sorry for so many questions but I am desperate to do this.... I dont want my baby in the bottom of the estuary!!

JC

STeveZ · Post by **STeveZ** » Sep 26th, '06, 15:22

West Marine has a whole area of their website dedicated to International Customers, they certainly sell 4200/5200.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... ction=care

JC · Post by JC » Sep 26th, '06, 15:27

THanks. Unfortunately these items are considered dangerous goods and cannot be shiped internationally. I will continue looking here. Any tips are welcome..

JC

Rawleigh · Post by **Rawleigh** » Sep 26th, '06, 15:34

The only danger of 5200 is covering yourself up with the stuff!!!

JC · Post by JC » Sep 26th, '06, 15:36

=)

jijiji LOL

Living in paradise can ba a pain in the a$$ sometimes. This is what they say..

Hazardous Items: Hazardous or toxic items such as paint, flares, fire extinguishers, batteries, epoxies, compressed gas and some cleaners cannot be shipped to International destinations. If you have any questions about this please feel free to call us on one of our toll free numbers.

JC

JC · Post by JC » Oct 2nd, '06, 15:09

OK. After some searching I have been able to locate the 5200. How long do I have to wait before a relaunch??? Says on there 7 days full curing time but that seems way too long... can I relaunch before???

Thanks,

JC

Bruce · Post by **Bruce** » Oct 2nd, '06, 17:08

Thanks Trey,

4200 does allow the parts to be pulled apart better than 5200.

Having removed stuff put together with 5200, I don't really care for the stuff unless I was looking for an adhesive fastning rather than a mechanical one.

Sooner or later, everything on a boat comes apart.

CaptPatrick · Post by **CaptPatrick** » Oct 5th, '06, 15:52

Thanks for the answers. These are the shaft logs. I will try and do the fiberglass project at some time...

JC,

Here's what can be lurking under all that goop. If your hull fiberglass looks white and flakey under the bronze shaft tubes then you really need to address the problem by glassing in the tubes.

These images were taken today and there is no other sign of electrolysis anywhere else on the boat. If your running gear is in the bad shape you describe in an earlier post, you can just about bet that you've glass problems also...

Click on the image for a larger view

Br,

Patrick

RussP · Post by **RussP** » Oct 5th, '06, 16:21

Damm Patrick, that looks really scarry!!!
I glad I didn't see that under mine when I remover them. I must say the bronze backing strips backing the bolts were real brittle and came apart in pieces.
Glad to see your staying busy,
RussP

John Jackson · Post by **John Jackson** » Oct 9th, '06, 22:01

I just watched Carvers install ones in my boat that look just like Capt. Patrick's. I do a lot of work on my boat but I think you would be out of your mind or way above average if you tried this job on your own. This is a major job. I think screwing it up could lead to disaster. With all due respect, it might be the type of thing that if you have to ask how to do it, you should let a professional handle it.

John Jackson · Post by **John Jackson** » Oct 11th, '06, 07:36

JC- I took a look at the shaft logs that just came off of my boat. They look like they are in very good condition. My shafts were 1-1/4, but I don't know if it makes a difference, or what size shafts you have. I also don't know if the original brass shaft logs are something you could buy anywhere or if they are Bertram parts. You are welcome to have mine if they will help you. Just pay for the shipping and make a donation to the site.

bertram31.com

Bottom Paint and Shaft Logs

Bottom Paint and Shaft Logs

Finally got the 5200

Atten: JC Shaft Tubes...

Brass shaft logs

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