Question re: Buddy Boy's teak & holly floors

[JohnV8r]

Can someone tell me what thickness the teak & holly veneered plywood used in Buddy Boy's refurbishment was or what they have used in the past? My intention is to remove all the original plywood flooring in Shambala and replace it with teak & holly veneered plywood. I'm beginning the project in mid-October and need to order the teak & holly veneered plywood sheets this week.

I'm trying to determine if I can use 12 mm teak & holly veneer (.4724") or whether I need to increase that to the next larger thickness, 18 mm (.7086").

Also, what is the preferred method in finishing the plywood edges with teak trim pieces. My three options at this end would be:

1) use a biscuit joiner, biscuits and epoxy to connect the trim pieces to the edges,

2) dado in a rabbit from the underside of the teak & holly veneered plywood and clamp in the trim pieces using epoxy, or

3) simply using epoxy and clamps to attach the teak trim pieces.

Thanks in advance.

[CaptPatrick]

John,

"Buddy Boy" has 12mm T&H laid onto a 1/2" plywood subdeck and screwed down so that it can be removed for refinishing when necessary.

There are several ways you could edge the plywood, but you only need to edge the ends that are perpendicular to the grain of the teak. On "Buddy Boy" I epoxy & stapled 5/8"x1/8" strips to the edges. After it cured, I carefully flushed off the excess & sanded the 1/8" thickness down to about 1/16".

There are more complex ways to set heavier edging like you've mentioned but I don't really see a lot of end benifit... I have done some edging line in the diagram below, & "C" would be the easiest method if you wanted a heavier piece of wood with more surface area to grab.

What ever technique you use, just be patient & careful. The veneer layer is about 1/32" thick and you can botch it in the blink of an eye...

Doing the entire cabin of "Buddy Boy" took 2 1/2 4'x8' sheets. With the standard cabin floor plan, you might get by with two sheets.

Br,

Patrick

[JohnV8r]

Patrick,

Thank you SO much for that response.

I want to make sure I understand how best to treat edges that are parallel to the teak & holly veneer if I do not edge them with solid teak strips.

So if I do not edge them with solid teak, what is the best method for sealing the teak & holly plywood edge? Should I use epoxy only to seal the plywood edge? Should I seal with epoxy and then treat the edges with a polyurethane floor sealer material like Bona's Traffic to try and get a tough finish on the edge?

Since I intend to keep the stock floor layout, but want to get rid of the Taco aluminum trim, I want to make sure that I have the parallel edges protected for those occasions when I need to lift up the main floor panels. I thought edging would offer the most protection. However, if I can create a seemless look on the edges by not having slightly different colored teak all the way around on the parallel edge, I'm all for it.

Thanks again. I cannot begin to tell you how much I appreciate the information.

John Vietor

[CaptPatrick]

John,

You can use the same technique to band any edge that you feel needs it, all others just make sure that they are sealed well with epoxy... You will have some figuring to do in layout along the parallel edges so that your teak widths workout.

I cut and fitted templates for all of the T&H panels on Jim's boat, then cut them out of door skin ply, refitted and adjusted for exact fit. After they were to my liking, I used them as patterns for the T&H.

You can get a fair match with with the Holly by using real blonde strips of white pine if needed.

The real headaches will come where you intend to use a radius, inside or outside. You'll have to work those in with heavier blocks and than sculpt them to shape.

$o happy to help....

Br,

Patrick

[Bulletproof]

I applied pre-glued teak edge banding and then sealed them with epoxy. I have my reservations about this method but as my father says, "It's your boat %#^* it up!"

I'm comfortable with the fact that I've applied a healthy amount of epoxy to further assure the adhesion of the edge banding. Now I've got about 10 coats of epiphanes on them so if they come off I only have myself to blame. We'll just have to wait and see. I have kept my original hatches for launching and hauling seasons, the bright hatches will come out the minute that work begins!

What I do have though is the full bearing of the 3/4" T H plywood resting on the stringers vs. applied edgeing that could shear off.

Good luck with your project. It's alot of work that's for sure!

-Paul