windshield

[bob lico]

capt patrick i have phoenix on the hard and began the windshied project.you have never shown the actual installation process of the composite fiberglass windshield from bill holmsey.removing the oem windshied i encounted the 3 3/8" ss bolts on each side of top windshield and 20 ss screws installed from the v-berth ceiling thru the combing into bottom of windshield.i notice a few self tapping screw installed from inside the glass section of the windshield in combing.my question is how much is enought on the new installation.i was going to install a biaxle tape around the top and bottom and epoxy to interior glass.also blend outside front bottom to combingof boat. 20 screws from v-berth ceiling into new windshield.do i have to try to bolt into top like oem????how would you install if labor was not a issue???

[bob lico]

i remove the windshield today after supporting bridge and upper structure.i did not raise bridge and have no cracks in paint thank god.
i need some kind of procedure from sombody who has used bill holmsey windshield kit.the cabin is differcult to protect from rain so i have to proceed will this project.the windshield is finish inside and out in gelcote to match paint so i realty don`t want to put exposed bolts thru it on the inside doed anybody have advice???

[CaptPatrick]

Bob,

Been out of town for a couple of days...

You will need to use epoxy or methacrylic, at least on the top joint, to hope to get away from screws in that area. As stated before, installing this windshield replacement is going to be very difficult, if not impossible to do without some fairing and paint work around the perimiter. It's just not a "plug and play" item.

The strongest bond you can make on fiberglass, without screws is with ITW Plexus, which is a methacrylic adhesive. If you use epoxy, it must be mixed slightly off ratio to acheive a slightly flexible bond. Absolute ratio mix will develop the max bond strength, but not necessarily flexible enough to survive without screws. No glass tabbing will be made on the top joint.

Never mix epoxy off ratio beyond 10% of the stated ratio by the manufacturer. Epoxy mixed with a higher amount of resin will be glass hard & brittle with less tensile strength. Epoxy mixed with a higher amount of hardner will be more flexible, but also with reduced tensile strength.

Since most epoxies have a tensile strength rating of about 1,400 - 1600 psi, loosing a bit of tensile strength to make a more flexible bond is OK.

Plexus bonds are higher tensile strength, (actually etches into the fiberglass), and it already has the flexibility built into the formulation. Plexus is what most offshore racing boat manufactures use for their cap to hull bond without screws...

One problem with Plexus is the rapid set time. The two parts being bonded must be closely fitted and held in alignment, by whatever means, during the curing cycle. Generally 15 - 30 minutes. There's no room for errors and once the bond is made, it's forever.

Also as stated before, Holmesey's windshield has a nasty little warp in the port side wrap around that is a bear to get twisted into configuration on the boat. If you haven't already done so, you need to get the windshield in place to see just how much racking, torturing, and grinding will be necessary to get the fit as close as possible. Remember that none of these B31s are the same as one another. The aluminum frame work for the windshield and side windows were built on each individual hull as the assembly went together.

Bill's original windshield was one offed to fit a particular boat. He then made a mold of the windshield before installing it. By the same token that the aluminum frames for one B31 won't be an exact fit on another B31, neither will his fiberglass windshield be an exact fit on your B31.

Another problem with your timing of this project is ambient temperature this time of year. Both epoxy and Plexus only cure out properly at temperatures that remain at a constant level between 60º - 90º F.

Again, good luck!

Br,

Patrick

[Raybo Marine NY]

Bob,



Bill's original windshield was one offed to fit a particular boat. He then made a mold of the windshield before installing it. By the same token that the aluminum frames for one B31 won't be an exact fit on another B31, neither will his fiberglass windshield be an exact fit on your B31.

Another problem with your timing of this project is ambient temperature this time of year. Both epoxy and Plexus only cure out properly at temperatures that remain at a constant level between 60º - 90º F.

Again, good luck!

Br,

Patrick

temperature is the first thing that came to mind- how are you going to warm things up enough? I assume the boat is not in a heated building?
Even a good heater on the inside of the boat may not be enough for a proper cure.

The way I describe the windshield going into the boat is like trying to take a super ridgid piece and fit it into a boat that at that point looks like one of them is twisted. Sort of like trying to fit a rhombus into a rectangle.

[Raybo Marine NY]

Bob- make sure once installed you pay extra attention to the windscreen, being that it is gelcoat it will not hold its color and gloss as well as the paint around it. Try to wax it once a month or even more if you can.

Would not be a big deal if it was seperated a little more, like if you ordered a deck kit, but being right up against painted surfaces it will be more noticable with time.

[bob lico]

i am trying to dicipher the real intent of this installation.i have not trial fitted the new windshield yet but as i understand the bottom (because installing 20 selftaping # 12 ss screws from the v-berth ceiling is reatively easier then any bolts from the top)first applying plexus of which i am familar with.then fair front to combing with epoxy this becomes a solid joint the top will have no screws or bolts just a plexus joint and will be flexiable (something has to give) and no glassing in or out.i will move boat inside for a day or so to warm up.robbie,capt patrick do i have this right?

[bob lico]

thank you robbie that is something i did not know on the differance between gel and paint at a seam.incidently i did not wax boat yet what do you use on imron?

[Craig Mac]

bob,

don't use fiberglass wax---i have been using car wax ---mothers cleaner wax for first coat and pure wax for second and third. i think the fiberglass was is made for gel coat and is too abrasive for the paint.

[bob lico]

of all the people in the world giving any advice on how to wax or what wax to use i would think craig mac`s falcon would be the best example of what to do !!!

[Raybo Marine NY]

come on Bob- dont leave us in suspense

[bob lico]

removed window without raising bridge.i just supported bridge in 3 places.screws under port and starboard bottom frame vert differcult to remove.i used 5" 1/16 cut off blade.i will triel fit new windshield this week.

[Raybo Marine NY]

I already got a report earlier in the weekend that the windshield was almost out, was more interested in how the new piece was going in.

[bob lico]

something wrong in my computor. i uploaded pictures of windshield project as well as pictures of props to photo bucket.when i try to download pictures under post by right clicking mouse the paste is very feint color,when i click on it nothing happens.i can not download pictures from site or for that matter i can`t use paste fuction.

[CaptPatrick]

Bob,

If the paste function is greyed out, (faint), it's because you haven't got the file, (image), copied to the clipboard... After highlighting the file to copy, use your keyboard rather than right click. ctrl+c to copy, ctrl+v to paste. Just hold the control key down, and while doing so hit the c or v key...

Br,

Patrick

[bob lico]

thank you capt. patrick but why all of sudden do i have to hit ctrl +p?

[tds8268]

Bob,

Please keep us posted on your progress. I have always wanted to do that but have been very hesitant after seeing what Chuck R in OCMD had to go through to get his to fit properly, what a nightmare!

Dan