Wiring Diagram

Bill Mckinnon · Post by **Bill Mckinnon** » Nov 8th, '08, 14:10

Does anyone have the wiring diagram for the 31. Someone sent to me but comp crashed and lots it. Am getting ready to start repowering and it owuld be helpful.

Thanks

Capt. Bill

Pete Fallon · Post by **Pete Fallon** » Nov 9th, '08, 23:57

Bill,
Send me your mailing address, I have original wiring diagrams from 1969, I got them back in 1978 from Richard Kidd. I tried to scan them but the resolution was not good. I made copies they are pretty dog eared but are still readable, 2 pages of drawings and original Bertram wire color codes.
Pete Fallon

tds8268 · Post by **tds8268** » Nov 10th, '08, 07:18

Pete,

Do you have any other copies? It sure would be handy while working on my 1970.

Dan

Bill Mckinnon · Post by **Bill Mckinnon** » Nov 10th, '08, 08:13

Pete

Would be great. My e-mail is bill.mckinnon@hotmail.com

Am getting ready to repower so it will be a great help

Thanks

Bill

Tommy · Post by **Tommy** » Nov 10th, '08, 10:32

Bill,

I think Pete was asking for your snail-mail address, as he was unable to successfully scan a good e-version of the diagram. He has hard copies.

Rawleigh · Post by **Rawleigh** » Nov 10th, '08, 11:19

I have a scanned copy from my 1966 FBC. Give me your emails and I will send it. Bill, yours is in your inbox.

tds8268 · Post by **tds8268** » Nov 10th, '08, 16:21

Rawleigh,

Check your pm. My email should be there.

Thanks much!!
Dan

Pete Fallon · Post by **Pete Fallon** » Nov 10th, '08, 21:00

Guys,
If you send me you snail mail address I will U.S. mail the copies to who ever wants the wiring diagrams. The resolution is not sharpe enough to read when I scanned them on my PC. Let me know, maybe Raliegh's copies are better than mine.

Rawleigh · Post by **Rawleigh** » Nov 11th, '08, 11:28

Dan: It is on the way!

Mikey · Post by **Mikey** » Nov 12th, '08, 09:41

Bill, If you're starting over, forget the original diagram and start from scratch. I did and it was a pain in the a#* but worth the effort. So much has changed since the first 31 was launched. Different wire, more electronics, etc. Take every bit of the old stuff out and recycle it. Copper prices are up, way up.
I, fortunately, had the Faithful to ask questions and it made it all possible. Mostly I had Chiles Cridlin to call. He had just done the same thing and was a huge help.
We're here for you, go for it.

Chiles · Post by **Chiles** » Nov 12th, '08, 10:44

Mikey,
I got your message. I'm out in Lebanon Virginia doing another disaster recovery drill for our Commonwealth.

Do you still have the drawings that we worked on? I bet I still have them somewhere.

Mikey · Post by **Mikey** » Nov 12th, '08, 14:43

Chiles, I kept everything. Looks like next week at the earliest for even a phone call.
Have a weekend.

gplume · Post by **gplume** » Nov 12th, '08, 20:59

You guys get what you need? I have each view scanned in seperately plus the overall if you want it.

To be honest, the schematics were of limited use other than to find out what the wires I had hanging all over theplace used be for. I rung out each wire individually and penciled somthing together.

Anybody got any suggestions for software to make your own schmatics? I have Mentor Graphics Dx Designer at work that is about 100 times too sophisticated for a simple wireing job. Looking for something simple and easy to use.

Giff

CaptPatrick · Post by **CaptPatrick** » Nov 12th, '08, 21:15

Giff,

Doesn't get much simplier than AutoSketch by AutoDesk...

Br,

Patrick

Bruce · Post by **Bruce** » Nov 13th, '08, 07:31

I'm with Mikey on the forget the original on a repower or major rework.

Much much simpler to run new circuits with upgraded tinned wire.

A must when reworking the finest boat ever built to make it that much better.

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Nov 13th, '08, 08:07

Mikey wrote:Bill, If you're starting over, forget the original diagram and start from scratch. I did and it was a pain in the a#* but worth the effort. So much has changed since the first 31 was launched. Different wire, more electronics, etc. Take every bit of the old stuff out and recycle it. Copper prices are up, way up.
I, fortunately, had the Faithful to ask questions and it made it all possible. Mostly I had Chiles Cridlin to call. He had just done the same thing and was a huge help.
We're here for you, go for it.

Mikey, those copper prices tanked recently. Several 55 gallons drums of brass turnings usually generates few thousand from my scrap guy, we just got 400 bucks for it.

Dug · Post by **Dug** » Nov 13th, '08, 08:30

I absolutly concur about starting over. Forget the original diagram. Run the new, tinned wire to where you need to.

Forget the copper pricing anyway, it has completely tanked, and you don't get much for wire anyway. Unless you are homeless or a drug addict, and then it is apparently worth your while... Mikey, somehow I don't think you are either, no worries!

Don't bother with a 40 year old diagram that documents old wire that has probably been moved by the past owners anyway...

Dug

luis · Post by **luis** » Nov 13th, '08, 15:53

I use for home and I gonna use for doing all the redoing electrical on the boat a program called ProfiCAD Home. Its easy with lots of already made symbols. the web page is http://proficad.com/ and for home (non commercial) purposes is free. You only have to download it. Have a good manual in pdf format and there are lots of libraries with items to join.

Mikey · Post by **Mikey** » Nov 20th, '08, 11:21

Right on the copper prices, same on the price of damn near everything. Looks like depression with deflation.
Didn't use a cad program, drew by hand. Had to start over a few times but not that time consuming. once you have all the items you intend to install scoped out draw your batteries, AC and DC panels and your shore cord and surround with the boat items and fill in the blanks. Wire colors and size are important in the schematic. Additionally I drew three systems separately for clarity, AC, DC, bonding. Once done it was easy to see. I did drive Chiles bats with my seemingly eliminatory questions but I'd rather ask a "dumb" question than be in the middle of the Chesapeake and ask my self why I didn't ask. If it would help anyone I'd be glad to copy my crude drawings and snail mail them, but your equipment may be different. Good starting point.

gplume · Post by **gplume** » Nov 25th, '08, 19:06

Captain Patrick-

Thanks for the tip,,,got a copy of Autosketch from one of the other engineers at my plant that uses it just for writing specs.

My two cents on the wireing-
I left the 2 original Bertram harness in that fed the bridge, and removed every thing else (as in 35 years worth of add on everything.) My rationale was this...the Bertram harness's said "Bertram" on them (something about OEM what can i say), and the wire , all tinned Cu was still in great shape after cutting it back(one Monday morning non tinned wire on one harness from the starboard side ...go figure). I cut everything back, and terminated everything with a T strip (both ends). From there I fed instruments and ignition and switches on the bridge, and engine and breakers on the other end. The wiring diagram was just used for nostalgia...as i rung everything out. I kept the ignition feeds lined up with the original diagram and a few other wires, but did not let the OEM diagram dictate what I was doing becasue I could not find any matches for the original wire in terms of color combination. After that, I added all my extra wires, and brought robust grounds along for the ride as well so I could set up local "ground strips".

For wire, I used bestboat wire.com....I think I got turned on to these guys from this discussion line. Inever totalled everything up, but I bet the wire was way cheaper than my time.

At the end of the day, it came out pretty good and still preserved some of the original elements.

Hookshurt · Post by **Hookshurt** » Nov 25th, '08, 19:43

That's a great source GP. Those prices are great compared to what I have paid.

bertram31.com

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