The whole approach of using the socket and all thread tp press the shaft out of the coupler works like a charm. Not much pressure really needed. Almost silly how easy it went.
One hint, cut the all thread in two sizes - long to get it started, and then shorter for the second half of the operation so that you can use sockets instead of spinning wrenches. Of course, if you have one of those Bob V. fancy racket wrenches, you could use that.
Stainless shaft end looks great. Smooth and slick.
Inside of the coupler is a bit brown. Not thick rust, but not mirror smooth like the shaft. More like a rust "blueing."
I was thinking of polishing that up to make it slide back on easier. Start with like 400 grit wet paper and C-X, knock it down a bit, and then move to a polishing compound. Good idea? Major mistake? Don't mean nothing?
Thanks.
Shaft Pull Update and Q
Moderators: CaptPatrick, mike ohlstein, Bruce
To clean out a coupling I prefer to use a Flap Wheel, such as a McMaster Carr PN # 473 4A 767.
Using a Flap Wheel I prefer the wheel is slightly snug in the hole so it centers itself. The Flap Wheel goes into a drill or drill press, spin it up, insert into bore and move wheel in and out of the bore slowly. Initial deposits and high spots come off quick so check fit often so you don't over do it. Once rust and high spots are gone, the process gets pretty slow.
I like the Flap Wheel as it is self centering as compared to hand polishing.
Using a Flap Wheel I prefer the wheel is slightly snug in the hole so it centers itself. The Flap Wheel goes into a drill or drill press, spin it up, insert into bore and move wheel in and out of the bore slowly. Initial deposits and high spots come off quick so check fit often so you don't over do it. Once rust and high spots are gone, the process gets pretty slow.
I like the Flap Wheel as it is self centering as compared to hand polishing.
Young Barrister,
You don't want to do anything that will "open" up the shaft hole in the coupling otherwise it will cock on the shaft and throw the alignment out.
Even a few thousands is no good.
CX, hand sand with some plumbers tape(sand paper about 1.5" wide that comes in a roll) to get any rust out and thats it.
Any threaded portion use a tap to clean the threads.
Anything that has a thread, assemble with tef gel.
Since the fit is so tight into the coupling, anything you put on the shaft will push back. Just wet the two with CX and assemble.
I pulled two bent shafts last week that I had apart 3 years ago.
I used the same procedure as above and they came apart "Like Butta".
Will do same when they go back in on Monday.
No need to polish it like the shaft.
You don't want to do anything that will "open" up the shaft hole in the coupling otherwise it will cock on the shaft and throw the alignment out.
Even a few thousands is no good.
CX, hand sand with some plumbers tape(sand paper about 1.5" wide that comes in a roll) to get any rust out and thats it.
Any threaded portion use a tap to clean the threads.
Anything that has a thread, assemble with tef gel.
Since the fit is so tight into the coupling, anything you put on the shaft will push back. Just wet the two with CX and assemble.
I pulled two bent shafts last week that I had apart 3 years ago.
I used the same procedure as above and they came apart "Like Butta".
Will do same when they go back in on Monday.
No need to polish it like the shaft.
Last edited by Bruce on Sep 8th, '06, 18:28, edited 1 time in total.
- Hyena Love
- Senior Member
- Posts: 309
- Joined: Jun 30th, '06, 09:54
THanks
Thanks guys.
Forgot to mention, the cap/spud had bad threads. Could not locate a tap of the right side, and ordered a new one (plus a spare).
Very hopeful it goes back in as easy as it came out.
Y'll have a great weekend, and thanks again.
Forgot to mention, the cap/spud had bad threads. Could not locate a tap of the right side, and ordered a new one (plus a spare).
Very hopeful it goes back in as easy as it came out.
Y'll have a great weekend, and thanks again.
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