Closer to deck install

Ironman · Post by **Ironman** » Mar 26th, '08, 13:07

Well after changing the exhaust elbow, all thru hulls ,adding a 2" underwater light... & all kinds of changes under the deck, now they started the bilge gelcoating.. heres some pics.. I used a lot of your guys advice..Im still not teal sure how to beef up the gunnels.

IMG]http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p245 ... one003.jpg[/IMG]

Tommy · Post by **Tommy** » Mar 26th, '08, 14:10

Real nice work, Ironman!

Tommy

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Mar 26th, '08, 18:54

Its looking good. Are you doing the gelcoat of the bilge yourself? Tony

Ironman · Post by **Ironman** » Mar 26th, '08, 19:53

I came down to the boat with a gallon of bilgecoat ... & they said noooo let us gelcoat. .So I said OK .
Ill be hanging the raycor 1000s & finish rehangin g the swim step spon.
Im thinkin teak for the bolsters under the gunnels?3 on each side?
Wayne

Kingfish · Post by **Kingfish** » Mar 26th, '08, 22:27

All the work your doing Wayne really looks good !

If you use Teak are you going to treat it with West System Epoxy?

Harry Babb · Post by **Harry Babb** » Mar 26th, '08, 23:07

Hi Ironman
Looks like a lot of hard work paid off for you............looks really good.

Are you going to omit the side and transom panels????

What are you going to deck her with??

Harry

Ironman · Post by **Ironman** » Mar 27th, '08, 20:53

We got the mufflers in today..

Yes Im leavin off the panels... I was just told to use Mohogany & Im thinkin west system too.

We using fiberglass.
Wayne

Ironman · Post by **Ironman** » Mar 31st, '08, 19:52

Guys Im thinking of adding hinges to the fishboxes..

OR?

Jim M. · Post by **Jim M.** » Apr 4th, '08, 17:56

Iron Man, I'm out of town for 2 weeks but will check out you boat at Basin Marine. I'm on a mooring at NHYC, "Beach It". Would like to check out your deck. I'll get in touch when we get back.
Jim

JP Dalik · Post by **JP Dalik** » Apr 4th, '08, 22:13

Break the fish box deck hatches in the middle with a hinge. Don't hinge them to the deck, you'll hate yourself.
A one piece hinged hatch that is removeable will work fantastic.
I'd make a provision for the center deck to come out. Even with our teak deck in place we have to "removeable" read as sacrificial strips that can be removed and the center section removed for tank replacement.
It looks pretty good can't wait to see the finished product.

Ironman · Post by **Ironman** » Apr 5th, '08, 00:05

JP: How can you lock it down then?4 latches each.You mean Hinge it longways .? I hate the hatches that remove & then fall back on the deck or your foot when you roll. I told them to hinge to deck .

JP Dalik · Post by **JP Dalik** » Apr 5th, '08, 21:13

My thoughts on hinging the deck were as follows. If I hinge the deck and the box door has to open inboard it may or may not open completely from coolers on the deck or the fighting chair instlalled in the center. Maybe baitwells or tanks hold true for your application. This would make it hard to have the hatch stay vertical on its own while moving things around or packing out the fish box.
If the door opens outboard then it forces me to remove the box and place it inboard before getting it off the boat. The chair and or coolers are still in the way. It also makes it harder to clear people when loading the box while fishing.
By having a hatch that is sitting in the opening and hinged just off center opening fore and aft it allowed us to load the box without moving a bunch of stuff or people and fold the hatch in half and remove it for box removal.
The boxes sit in a large guttered channel so there is no reason to have to latch them down as any water from the deck flows into the channel and away from the boxes.
This is what worked for us, looking at what you have going on there I would guess you have planned what will work best for you. Again the pics look great and you will love being able to have some room for your feet under the gunnels. These pits get really big when you get rid of the side panels.

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Apr 6th, '08, 12:57

jp i am still missing something on the every day use of the deck boxes.
i took it that most captains just pull the tuna out of the boxes and then place them in those carts that go to the fish cleaning stand.are you saying you take the entire deck box with ice and tuna and hand it up on the dock???i did not hinge my hatch cover at all i just have a recess handle i use to remove the entire cover and get it out of my way then slide it back when done.it mkes no sense to have a hatch cover fall down on your head or impede the removal of fish.i would love to see a picture of your kill boxes on the inside and i imagine so would the ironman.

Ironman · Post by **Ironman** » Apr 6th, '08, 16:29

JP Im givig the mid hinge some serious thought.. My friend has a 35 Cabo.. W/ the same size boxes.. Hinged to swing outboard side.. I think a big hatch is hard to handle sometimes you just need a peek LOL.
Bob I dont think its coosa, Heres a pic of a piece.

What do you think? Nida-cor?
Wayne

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Apr 6th, '08, 16:55

ironman it is definitly not nida-core and if it was coosa it would be grey so i think that material is the same layup or composite (compressed layers of resin and fiberglass cloth) as coosa under a differant brand.we really have to see jp`s deck or we are just guessing.i cannot see why you would want to hinge the two kill boxes i just think of bending over in the worst position possible for lower back pain and pulling a 80lpound tune out of the hole!!!!!!

JP Dalik · Post by **JP Dalik** » Apr 6th, '08, 19:20

I got nothing on deck box pictures, the boxes are out of the boat sitting where we keep the boat and the deck looks like a wood shop right now with drop clothes, chop saws and table saws set up all over the place under the white plastic cover.
As soon as we splash I'll get some shots (probably be to late by then though)
The split hatch allows one guy to remove the whole hatch by himself. The split hatch also allows you to open the shorter side and use a hand pump to drain out the melted ice and fish chunks before lifting the box out for cleaning- the box. We try not the let the boxes drain into the bilge for obvious olfactory reasons.
When the boat sits we remove the box plugs just in case of a heavy rainy week the boxes don't hold water and become a Darwin experiment for the next guy that shows up.
When your fishing you can slide fish in the short side without moving people or coolers.
We didn't split the hatches exaclty in half there's a short and long side. Didn't think we needed to lift a whole lot of hatch to slide longfin and bass into the boxes. Hell even the eyeball went through the short side without issue this year.
The important thing is you got boxes the rest of this stuff is owner preference. Keep em solid for now if your on the fence opening half hatches are only a saw cut away.

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Apr 9th, '08, 21:33

just one more question jp, does the bottom of the box conform or i should say coincide with the deadrise angle of the boat or is the bottom made square.i could see plus and minus with either.i will make mine coincide with 24 degree deadrise allowing some distance between to clear the nuts and the bronze backing plate for the struct.at the rear bottom of the "vee" box i will put a 3/4" quick disconnect and from there to a mercerator with a tee so it can take the drain water from both boxes i have allready installed the 11/4" thruhole to empty the boxes.if i make it square the water and ice will be harder to drain and the capacity would drop considerably.what did you do on yours??

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Closer to deck install

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