why i do it

randall · Post by **randall** » Jan 17th, '08, 16:17

ive looked a thousands of surf vids and could post some mind blowing big wave stuff but this one really got me...thought id share....really captures a view few are lucky enough to see and feel...be a little patient and get past the short intro stuff

http://www.surfline.com/video/video_pla ... fm?id=5863

mike ohlstein · Post by **mike ohlstein** » Jan 17th, '08, 17:38

Was I supposed to keep holding my breath?

Jareb · Post by **Jareb** » Jan 17th, '08, 19:24

Randall,
Phenominal waves-beautiful photography!
John

nic · Post by **nic** » Jan 17th, '08, 20:50

Sensational Randall, as good or better than our old mate George Greenough. Going on a surfari for 10 days tomorrow, you've really put me in the mood...thanks.

Nic

Mack · Post by **Mack** » Jan 17th, '08, 21:44

Randall-
You need to sell the place in Montauk and move to Hawaii or better yet Australia. Take the Bert with you and only then will you be in paradise.

randall · Post by **randall** » Jan 17th, '08, 22:50

mack...no place is paradise...trust me ..i looked...i lived in california for 5 years with trips to mexico and hawaii...sailed the caribbean looking for waves....and skied and snowboarded in europe and all over the west for a decade....this place is not paradise either...but its the best place ive ever lived.....and i can live anywhere i want

Harry Babb · Post by **Harry Babb** » Jan 17th, '08, 23:05

Great shots.............who was holding the camera??

Harry

CMP · Post by **CMP** » Jan 18th, '08, 10:04

Nothing like being in the green room...

CMP

randall · Post by **randall** » Jan 18th, '08, 10:19

harry...camera is mounted to the tail of the board...this is not a new idea but with modern digital tech the camera can be much smaller than older larger (and somewhat dangerous) installations. then of course you need a surfer who can get deep. one of my most memorable waves in hawaii was just like in the movie....cept i saw the next fifty yards coming over all at once...and way to deep to do anything about it....the correct move is to fall away from the back of the board shooting it well out in front and try to penetrate the face so you dont get sucked up and over....thats not what happened and it was one of the most memorable wipe outs of a 48 year surfing career......came up with my trunks around one ankle.....and my board headin for molokai (pre leash days)

AndreF · Post by **AndreF** » Jan 18th, '08, 10:25

Must've had RainX on the lense.

Charlie J · Post by **Charlie J** » Jan 18th, '08, 10:44

andre
i was thinking the same thing, rain x

Rawleigh · Post by **Rawleigh** » Jan 18th, '08, 18:42

Randall: At least the board wasn't up your @#$!! Get many waves like that in Montauk!! Tell Peter the Virginia contingent says HI!!

randall · Post by **randall** » Jan 18th, '08, 19:59

thats why you kick it away from you....its not consistant but montauk can be very very good.....very good....rock reefs and sticking 120 miles out into the ocean equal good waves...however block island is even better...its always offshore somewhere....my son's gonna see peter next week ..ill tell him to say hi

jspiezio · Post by **jspiezio** » Jan 18th, '08, 20:41

randall wrote:thats why you kick it away from you....its not consistant but montauk can be very very good.....very good....rock reefs and sticking 120 miles out into the ocean equal good waves...however block island is even better...its always offshore somewhere....my son's gonna see peter next week ..ill tell him to say hi

One of the best, always somewhere to ride on that island.

Matt Holcomb · Post by **Matt Holcomb** » Jan 19th, '08, 08:47

Randall, is this you?

http://cosmos.bcst.yahoo.com/up/player/ ... cl=5923638

randall · Post by **randall** » Jan 19th, '08, 09:29

not in this life...but every time i see tow in surfing i marvel at how easy it is to catch a huge wave like that....thats well above anything i ever paddled into..but ive ridden some large waves....and riding them is the easiest part.....actually paddling out and sitting in the impact zone....then stifiling the impulse to paddle as hard as you can for the horizon as a wave approaches , COMMITTING....and taking the the drop....all harder than riding the wave...which is kind of an unconscious insinctive learned response activity

mike ohlstein · Post by **mike ohlstein** » Jan 20th, '08, 22:58

Some footage, shot by a friend of mine....

http://www.reelsense.net/index.html

randall · Post by **randall** » Jan 21st, '08, 08:58

that was nice...more artistic than the usual surf vid...heres one of the sickest wave on the planet...highlights the difference between tow in and paddle in....when its smaller people actually paddle into this thing.....my next door neighbor tried it............one time

http://www.surfline.com/video/video_pla ... m?id=12274

gplume · Post by **gplume** » Jan 21st, '08, 22:34

Grat links..thanks fo rthe entertainment.

Not as rad as mainland mexico....but its local;

My son in RI....
http://tburman.smugmug.com/gallery/2215399#115386448

(No internet photos of the old man)

More RI
Good shot of Junior#37
http://tburman.smugmug.com/gallery/2152938#111657468

I can surely back up what Randall says about BI(except same for the mainland)...there is almost always somwhere where its off shore in RI when the swell comes up.

JK · Post by JK » Jan 21st, '08, 22:59

I have limited surf experience but do remember one day pretty well. Was out west and traveled to meet up with a cousin in San Diego for a little surfing at Mission Beach and brought along my girlfriend from Chicago with zero surfing experience. Got our boards and started our way out, she was in front of me and thought she could duck dive the wave (where you push the front of the board under the wave) and before I knew it I felt a burning sensation in my head. Immediately two guys next to us start going "dude....dude,....you're bleeding." I knew by the "dudes" I was in CA and the warm burning feeling meant a cut. Yep, a nice slice from the skeg right at my hairline and back up into my head and a trip to the local hospital was in order. Doc was a good sport cause my GF took pictures of the entire event, from lidocane to sutures.

--JK

PS. Dumped the GF

randall · Post by **randall** » Jan 22nd, '08, 09:07

hay giff....really nice shots.....i do kinda the same thing with my arms when i cut back........but your kid has more style....im so old i bought a long (ish) board

JK.....ouch.....been there done that...body surfed into my loose board in 2 foot waves....25 stitches..........hit in the side of the head by someone elses' board stuck in the lip of the wave.....deaf in one ear, the most dangerous thing generally is the other surfers

bertram31.com

why i do it

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