Radius on helm pod Roundovers

The Main Sand Box for bertram31.com

Moderators: CaptPatrick, mike ohlstein, Bruce

Post Reply
muddywater
Posts: 3
Joined: Jan 1st, '08, 20:45

Radius on helm pod Roundovers

Post by muddywater »

Hey guys,
I was just wondering what radius (or diameter) is typically used on the helm pod round-overs.

Thanks!!!!
User avatar
bob lico
Senior Member
Posts: 5278
Joined: Jun 29th, '06, 19:22
Location: sayville,long island

Post by bob lico »

i used a 11/2" round over bit and was vert satified with results.
muddywater
Posts: 3
Joined: Jan 1st, '08, 20:45

router

Post by muddywater »

So you just used a router rather than a hand plane & sander and you felt like the radius on your round-overs was sufficient? Hmm... that definitely sounds easier than trying to make all my plane lines straight. Tempting...
User avatar
bob lico
Senior Member
Posts: 5278
Joined: Jun 29th, '06, 19:22
Location: sayville,long island

Post by bob lico »

i don`t know if i posted this in the past ,if i did bare with me.i hand picked a 2"thick piece of beautiful grained burmese teak.look all over the northeast for a bandsaw with a 30" throat ,low and behold there was a old sawmill on eastern long island.they cut the piece exactly in half so i had two pieces "booked matched" like they do with a violin.i then took the two pieces and ran them on table saw to create a slot.glue up a 11/2" x 1/4" spline inserted and clamped.instead of putting a piece in front with grain going wrong way i took the hard course and did the same procedure.time is not even considered this is a 31bertram.next job was a cut out to recess the gauges under glass.for the top trim a made a one piece teak trim instead of the traditional ss trim many hours!!

Image
User avatar
bob lico
Senior Member
Posts: 5278
Joined: Jun 29th, '06, 19:22
Location: sayville,long island

Post by bob lico »

this is a scan (with coffee stain on picture) sorry only one i have this is in the building stage and did not put the flowscan trans. pressure gauge in when i took this shot.i sure you get the general idea with the roundover bit on every courner.-----------------bob
User avatar
JP Dalik
Senior Member
Posts: 1317
Joined: Jun 30th, '06, 21:03
Location: Pt. Pleasant NJ
Contact:

Post by JP Dalik »

I was wondering how you got all those perfect 1/2" glue lines in it. Then you sent the message about the scan.

Whose combo (port/stbd reading)gauges did you use?
KR


JP
1977 RLDT "CHIMERA"
User avatar
bob lico
Senior Member
Posts: 5278
Joined: Jun 29th, '06, 19:22
Location: sayville,long island

Post by bob lico »

jp i used flowscan company gauges called twinscan 2". the gauges enaple me to make a smaller "underglass area" but also gave me another advantage; the indicater needle is red led set to the upper and lower limits you dial in and the needle will flash when limits are exceded.there also is a seperate back light for night running and a seperate wire to hook up to a bell,buzzer or whatever else you need to wake up and take action.the three led lights at the bottom of the glass area indicate forward,middle and stern bilge pumps.
muddywater
Posts: 3
Joined: Jan 1st, '08, 20:45

pod

Post by muddywater »

Nice job on the pod!
The teak bezel was not something I had considered. I had spent quite a bit of time trying to find somebody that could machine stainless steel to make a bezel. It seems like most of the ones I have seen were anodized aluminum or chromed brass (like the ones sold here).

Thanks for the pic. It definitely helps to see it. I have one question about it though. Are the three round things inside the glassed area beneath the middle gauge air holes to prevent fogging or some kind of screws?
User avatar
bob lico
Senior Member
Posts: 5278
Joined: Jun 29th, '06, 19:22
Location: sayville,long island

Post by bob lico »

the three round things are the led indicator lights i explained in the post.
Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot], Google [Bot] and 350 guests