Cummins Sherwood Impellers

[Capt. DQ]

I would recommend anyone using Cummins 6bta Sherwood Impellers to change them out as soon as possible, both port & starboard raw water pump impellers are totally trashed after 7-8 hrs of running the engines to break them in after being rebuilt and these are suppose to be new impellers.

Tony Athens @ boatdiesel.com has a after market pair that UV has talk about, I would suggest you install them immediatey. Overheated the port engine and lucky the engine alarm systems where working and I was paying attention because the old impellers look like they had been thru a meat grinder with no blades on the rubber impellers.

DQ

[In Memory Walter K]

Make sure you backflush and pick out as much of that blade debris as you can. I switched to the Athen's impellers early last season. I keep an extra set on board and havent had to use them so far. Walter

[IRGuy]

I had Tony Athen's shop rebuild one of my Sherwood pumps using his improved seals, bearings, impellors, etc, and also bought a rebuilt spare raw water pump from them. I found it impossible to remove the raw water pump impellor on my port engine due to space restrictions, and I found it easier to remove and replace the whole pump.. but be warned.. to remove one of these pumps you have to remove the engine mounting bracket behind the pump! I keep a couple of chunks of scrap wood and a small hydraulic bottle jack on board to support the port fwd corner of the engine just for this emergency.

BTW: I was able to remove the zinc at the bottom of my aftercooler and fish out some larger parts of my shredded impellor through the open hole, and I removed the trans oil cooler to remove the rest.

[DRIFTER31]

One of Tonys tips is to put a 3/4in. spacer between engine block and Cummins mount re drill lower motor mount hole and the pump will come off without a problem. Glad i read it BEFORE i put the 210hp in the Tiara.

[Capt. Mike Holmes]

Don't want to cause myself bad luck, but I haven't had that problem with the impellors on my Sherwood pumps. Being sort of African engineered, my engines have the pumps mounted on the cranshaft pully on the very front, and it is fairly easy to get to them for service. I did have problems with the pumps themselves at first, when they were mounted on the back of the front engine shroud. I got a lot of vibration which caused leaking and later impellor deterioration. This was a design problem, and seems to have gone away with the new mounting system (and new pumps).

This said, however, next change will be to Tony's impellors and/or pumps. No rreason to push one's luck.

[Capt. DQ]

Walter,

Did just that, the port side oil cooler was full of impeller pieces and the pump it self was clogged also, had take everything apart. used a strong shop vac and removed the pieces by vaccuming back on the oil cooler and it worked nicely, didn't even have to take the oil cooler apart, on the starboard side.

DQ

[In Memory of Vicroy]

I've got over three years on my Tony impellers and plan to change them next week along with the cams and wear plates that Tony now makes. No problems with the impellers vs. the stock Sherwood ones that were lasting less than 6 months before they dry rotted and shredded.

Took a long cruise on AJ yesterday and my port Racor started plugging up at high speed. This morning changed them both and they were filthy after only 20 hours, but it had been almost a year since I changed them....hmmmm.....20 hours a year? Need to run her a lot more. Howdy Boating has its drawbacks....

UV