bertram seating
Moderators: CaptPatrick, mike ohlstein, Bruce
bertram seating
just wanted to past this tip along to my bertram brothers.i purchase two todd ladder back captain chairs and remove the inside armrest from the companion seat.after power coating i installed two garelick adjustable shock absorbers under the seats than place them on a piece of "coosa" board as you can see the two seats are a perfect fit within a 1/4" of aluminum rail . the captain chair is dead center on the pod.
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uncle vic you might have guess how the seat arrangment came about.the bride looked at the single seat on the bridge and commented where do i sit?oh i was going to give you a plastic bucket!-only kidding honey just temp.
vic with no tools you just pull the stainless pins lift the seat forward and slide the shock absorber to one of 5 positions (soft to hard) depending on the water condition. besides the bride which would be rare the main purpose is the 21/2 hour ride to the canyon my son can sit up there and down a couple of clears with me.
vic with no tools you just pull the stainless pins lift the seat forward and slide the shock absorber to one of 5 positions (soft to hard) depending on the water condition. besides the bride which would be rare the main purpose is the 21/2 hour ride to the canyon my son can sit up there and down a couple of clears with me.
craig i have done a little trolling but wanted to put more weight in the boat without ballast i am not going to the canyon in a 31 with the chines out of the water it would make thudd remark come true (rldt) as you can see i have the trailling edge of the chines touchingthe water.i have the center rigger and outrigger mounts on just have to find time to polish and install.
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randall you might appreciate the amount of work it took.i had to use 2 10" burmise teak planks to compensate for the contour of the 31 at midships.i made a 3/16" spline the entire lenthe instead of using the biscuit cutter.a slew of clamps then put it thru a 10hp planner at suffolk college maint. shop.they also had a shaper for a clean edge before gluing.
i made a template and built up the gunnels with 1/2" of epoxy to cover the raised lip area on the inside of the gunnel.then i became anal and refused to use bungs so i clamp and ran 1,000 ss screws from the bottom of the gunnel into the teak above.than came the dual miter at the stern wow what a bitch the area is not flat so the miter was a triple angle cut for the piece under the haws pipe.the covering boards are truly 11/8" thick plenty of meat if i have to sand in the future.
i made a template and built up the gunnels with 1/2" of epoxy to cover the raised lip area on the inside of the gunnel.then i became anal and refused to use bungs so i clamp and ran 1,000 ss screws from the bottom of the gunnel into the teak above.than came the dual miter at the stern wow what a bitch the area is not flat so the miter was a triple angle cut for the piece under the haws pipe.the covering boards are truly 11/8" thick plenty of meat if i have to sand in the future.
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Bob,
Design and execution! That's all it takes and, Voila! You have a masterpiece.
Love the arch! Am currently in the throws of designing the arch to support the hardtop. Fortunately I have a guy who is both good designer and can bend and weld with the best of them.
Ain't we got fun?
Design and execution! That's all it takes and, Voila! You have a masterpiece.
Love the arch! Am currently in the throws of designing the arch to support the hardtop. Fortunately I have a guy who is both good designer and can bend and weld with the best of them.
Ain't we got fun?
Mikey
3/18/1963 - -31-327 factory hardtop express, the only one left.
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits.
-Albert Einstein
3/18/1963 - -31-327 factory hardtop express, the only one left.
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits.
-Albert Einstein
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