Bertram 25 conversion to an outboard powered CC

[CamB25]

That's it? Only 8 items!! Ha!

For buzzers or lights you can tap the load side of the bilge switch for power when the switch is made.

Do you have a ladder for re-boarding?

Good luck with that transducer.....I can't get mine to work over displacement speed. The water coming off the back of the boat is not clean....anywhere!

[ktm_2000]

ok - you are right there are more issues.....

I had purchased a Simrad RS35 VHF and it has AIS and I was unaccustomed to receiving the constant alerts as I am fairly close to the cape cod canal and there is a lot of commercial traffic. On a couple of trips I shut off the VHF because I was getting an alert every 1-2 min

some RTFM later
https://photos.app.goo.gl/G9EDDV4um9PQQbCQ6

and the alerts are gone...


I ordered up some 90 degree rod holders for my anchor locker bulkhead, I will install those and see if I can store rods in the cabin that way.

[ktm_2000]

I was messing around trying to improve the transducer and noticed that I had some epoxy/filler which had got under edge of the transom when I had worked on closing in the I/O holes. Most of the transition was fine, except where the boat had been sitting on the bunks, not a lot of goop but enough to create some turbulence. I let the bow down on the trailer and then put some blocks under the keel and then cranked up the bow to get a small 2" gap on the rear of the bunks. From there I sanded off the epoxy/filler and now the hull is relatively smooth.

I also put a straight edge on the hull bottom and think that the front of the transducer should be dropped and that the tilt of the transducer should be removed. My small tube of 5200 cooked off so I will need to go out over lunch and get another tube so I can remove the screws and re-seal the screws when I lower the bracket. I won't need to re-drill holes as the bracket has slots and I had set it with the screws in the middle of the slots so I have some adjustment room
https://photos.app.goo.gl/tkQQsVu8sySQveJ66

[CamB25]

It's a little low, but that's a good thing. You have the same transducer I have. I mounted mine level with the hull. I was going to re-mount to look like your picture, but it seems that doesn't work either!

[ktm_2000]

Saturday, I took the wife and kids out for a day on the water, we left the wareham river and rode over to woods hole, from there we went over to middle ground near the vineyard and did a bunch of drifts fluke fishing. The bites were fast and furious and I could only manage 3 rods baiting, helping my girls reel in and check out the fluke before releasing them and baiting up again. My Girls LOVED IT we spent 1.5hrs before my wife started getting a bit green from constantly going through the rips and during that time we must have caught 30+ fluke, not a single keeper.

To let my wife's stomach calm down we took a ride into Tashmoo on the Vineyard and drove around in the flat water for a bit and had lunch. After we did 4 more drifts before heading over to Woods Hole and tying up temp so the girls could get ice cream cones. We headed back after and found a party set up near a sandspit in the wareham river where there were some barges with a band playing and 50+ boats anchored up. We spent some time anchored up and swimming.

I am more used to hard core beat the bag out of myself fishing so this howdy boating is new to me at least my wife and kids love it and I plan on doing anything I can to make sure my kids continue to enjoy.

before the trip, I tweaked the transducer to make it flat but managed to forget to buy more 5200 so I didn't adjust the depth, it read better flat. I had my wife drive and I watched the wake going up to cruise speed and there is a small amount of water which is going up vertically off the transom in front of the transducer in the gap that the bracket makes.

since we've been anchoring up more, I am questioning my anchor setup. When I first got the boat, there were anchor chocks on the bow and the anchor lived there. Since I didn't anchor much, the anchor lived in a pair of milk crates in the cabin with an extra 300' spool in the anchor locker.

I am contemplating a bow pulpit to make it easier to store the anchor and have all the line in the anchor locker but don't want to loose the classic look of the bow lights.

I am wondering if someone has figured out a way to have their cake and eat it too?

[ktm_2000]

just an anchor locker idea - https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1798/ ... 1488266843

What if I made a setup which sat proud of the deck?

If it were setup in 3 layers, cut in the main deck keeping it as minimal as possible, then a molding which would sit on top to hold the anchor vertical as well as to try and keep out any water which would splash on deck, then a hatch which would cover the molding, The whole setup might stick up 1-1.5"

[CamB25]

That sounds like a great day on the water!

Re anchoring - I cut a hatch in the forepeak to provide access to main anchor and rode. It's out of the way, but requires some effort to pull the anchor and rode out. Looked at a windlass for the Bert, but I passed on these due to cost and bad reviews (more trouble than it's worth type of comments). I have a smaller anchor with less chain in the forward seating box. We use this one for all the cocktail cruises, picnics, etc. It's easier to deal with. Here's a picture that shows the Bertram chock, cleat and hatch arrangement. https://www.amazon.com/photos/shared/IM ... 9UQT-Js2pu
This one shows the anchor locker and the anchor holder I made. The anchor loads shank first. My hatch is large enough for a Fortress 11, Danforth 14 or 12h.
https://www.amazon.com/photos/shared/mE ... -Dg6PXPeod

We've found that deploying and retrieving the anchor from the side of the boat is much easier than working up on the bow. It's much easier to haul it over the gunnels than to lift it straight up at the bow (also avoids dinging up the paint). I have my wife drive the boat when deploying and retrieving. Works for us. I need another 25 feet of chain rode for anchoring off shore. For these trips I'll use a 5 gallon bucket for storage.

Cam

[CamB25]

You posted before my reply. That's the idea. I can get dimensions from mine if you like. My anchor bulkhead is in the stock location. Massive room in there. I have 300 feet of line and could easily carry another 300.

[ktm_2000]

Cam,

I like what you have setup, my path might not be as fancy and as flush deck but use similar ideas of moving the cleat forward as you have done which simplifies the path of the anchor rode.

Here's my foredeck, dirty from the maple tree and because I haven't fully sanded out the gelcoat I covered the deck with. concept which would be a layer glued on which would outline the anchor bar and keep it from moving around and enough of a lip to keep water from going down into the anchor locker, from there a square hatch to cover the whole thing. Seems like a project I could start making pieces during the week and install before next spring's launch.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/AtDAMpM3S75aBn7F7

[CamB25]

Yes, you have a blank canvas. Consider simply buying a hinged hatch. Mine got fancy because I had the wood in my shop. I ended up in Urgent Care making that cut out...doing things with a router that should never be done. My thumb healed up.

Mine is not water proof at all, on purpose. All the water (not much) will drain to the bilge and run aft unless you have installed a new bulkhead somewhere. I spray down the anchor and rode through the hatch after use. Easy. Just make sure the limber holes at the bottom of the anchor locker are still clear.

You still have access through the cuddy so it should be a fairly straightforward project. Boat outfitters can make the hatch to your dimensions. https://www.boatoutfitters.com/search/?q=hatch I'll take some measurements of mine as reference with a couple pictures. It gets a little tight with hatch, cleat and chock all in a line.

[Tony Meola]

If you come up with a way to keep the running lights original, I am sure there are a lot of people who would love to know how you did it. Usually when you go with a windless, the lights get re-chromed and sit on a shelf as a thing of beauty.

[ktm_2000]

I have a pair of anchors and I measured them out

https://photos.app.goo.gl/3yugbUiq1L6Fsmz68

smaller 8# West Marine Anchor.
The bars are 18 1/2" wide , the tail section sticks down from the bar 5" wide and 1 3/4" deep.

not sure the brand on the larger one but it has to be 10+ plus,
the bars are 18" wide, the tail section sticks down from the bar 2 1/2" and is 6" wide

With the depth of the tail section, in order to hide it the bar has to go below the deck at least the height of how far the tail sticks down. I looked around online and some folks offer custom fiberglass hatches and frames but no-one seems to have one made explicitly as a anchor hatch which holds the anchor.

this guy has some hatches for sale and I watched a video of how he makes the mold https://youtu.be/MJZyVXvHuoI

I am contemplating drawing out something in CAD and use my CNC to cut parts to build out a mold to make a female part. the concept of the mold would be multiple layers of MDF to build up the depth to hide the difference of depth from the cross bar to the tail piece and then a straight bar on top to allow the bars to be held in place.

This will be a background project to build out the molds be processed over time with a next spring create parts and install

[CamB25]

Here are a few photos of my anchor locker/hatch as reference. The anchor is a Fortress FX-11. Same dimensions as a Danforth 14lb or 12h. The rod holders on either side are for poles that support a sun shade. The original clam vents are open to the anchor locker and the locker drains to the bilge. The setup works well for me.

https://www.amazon.com/photos/shared/jB ... 02iaB2Pe_Q

[Carl]

That looks sharp!

[Tony Meola]

Cam

Nice design. That looks about perfect.

[DanielM]

Well thought out. The things you guys do to boats always amazes me.

[ktm_2000]

Cam, your setup looks quite good. It looks like you have the 2 functions of a hatch and a way to restrain the anchor done independently.

I am thinking of combining those functions because I put a big hole in my anchor locker where you have installed the bracket which holds the anchor down. I'm sure if I search enough I could find some type of pre-made FG hatch and frame with a similar size that I could glass into the front deck but I do not know if there's enough material left high on the anchor bulkhead to attach it to.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZNn9Vi8F1VAH8eEWA

[ktm_2000]

I did some tweaks saturday morning and some worked well others not so much.

I had been noticing some flex in the doghouse, primarily in a following sea so I was a bit worried I would need some type of gusset under the deck tying into the stringers, I went looking under the deck and found out that I was a knucklehead....... I put bolts through the deck but hadn't put the backing plate and nut on underneath. I added those - the doghouse is rock solid.


I also tweaked the transducer and lowered it to the lowest it would go based upon the current holes and the slots in the transducer bracket
https://photos.app.goo.gl/a2GVZ2K8T1PxuYTK7

looks setup as good as possible, didn't make a big difference. I did notice the 2nd lifting strake ends roughly 5' forward of that location and slightly to the inside. I'm guessing that is generating turbulence.

Since I have 2 displays, I am contemplating getting a fairly cheap transom ducer and silicone it down to the inside of the hull right on the centerline. at least I would have depth at speed and when I slow down, the other display works good.

[CamB25]

hmmmm...if all you want is depth and temperature take a look at the Airmar DT800 smart sensor. NMEA 2000 plug and play. You're on a trailer so installation is pretty simple with the correct hole saw! I assume the output from these is a set of digital numbers. You can probably adjust your BG display to capture and display these easily. You're a computer guy, so you'll get it. I was able to bring my B150M transducer output over to the Simrad display without excessive stress. I keep a "gages" panel up on my navigation screen with digital indications of many items, including depth. I don't have to look at the Garmin screen to make sure I'm not running in 2 feet of water. Useful!

The side scan and down scan features of the transom mounted transducer are useful, but even under ideal conditions they will only work up to approximately 10 knots. Hunting bottom, trolling, etc. I finally found a wreck I was searching for in vain with my standard chirp transducer. Side scan is useful for that! Your normal echo sounder is only pinging a few feet of the bottom, depending on the depth and transducer frequency.

[ktm_2000]

my last couple of trips have clearly identified a need for rod storage under way and when clearing lines. Over the off season I want to get some type of aluminum tower pipework with rod holders that goes between my leaning post and the underside of the t-top.

Right now my idea is to have a H pattern where the verticals go up from the leaning post to the doghouse roof and the crossbar is a combination seat back and has several rod holders across the back.

in searching for inspiration, I have seen this boat and this boat has 2 layers of rod holders plus the main support bars are bent to angle the rod tips out



I am thinking at least 1 set of rod holders fairly low, I would want to be able to easily get them in and out. I am not sure about the 2nd set were they might be fairly high up and difficult to get out of the holders without going on tippy toes

any thoughts and ideas or suggestions to look for?

[ktm_2000]

been working with a fabricator, to get some pipework done to go from my leaning post up to the doghouse roof

here's what he has done for another owner, I am not sure that the bends in the vertical pipes will be exactly the same as my roof extends 4" out further than the leaning post does. I like the setup, am thinking the center rod holder up high could hold a center rigger.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/sgM3bhxE8174wREX8

I am waiting for a spot to open up in his shop, I have a little time to be able to tweak the idea

your thoughts?

[Carl]

I have 5 or 6 on the back of my tower. Nice,k it keeps the net and a couple poles out of the cockpit, but I have to climb up a little to grab them. Fine when fishing with someone, when alone with light tackle I think twice about should I put pole in holder, loosen drag n climb up for the net or climb with pole in one hand or just take my chances grabbibbing the fish when it comes up.

Point being, those high holders are good for storage.


I like the two rows, but feel you’re looking for more. So why not, having more does not mean you have to use it all.
My thought, the bottom tier sit proud, several inches from the vertically bars angled aft a couple degrees. A 2nd tier is placed midway up, set back a little from the bottom at a lesser angle. The last tier sits higher, but easily reached. This higher tier is almost in line with the vertices bars and only slightly canted back. Three rows, spread out yet condensed, maybe stagger the holders between tiers for extra reel room and aesthetic's.

[ktm_2000]

I had thought about the height problem, but not as much about quantity...

the height issue is two fold as you mention, too high and it gets interesting getting rods out, too low and you can hit your head on them. My old house had steam heat and a low basement, I don't know how many times I hit my head on the steam pipes. I really don't want to hit my head, as I have probably already lost more brain cells than what I could have afforded to do so.......

The roof in the corner is 78" off the deck and just under 80" in the center. The thought in my head is to not bump my head so I was thinking the top row would start off at 74" above the deck. I just did a simple test of measuring my reach, if rod holders are 6" and start off at 74" the top of them are 80" flat footed, I can reach up to 96" and feel that I can grab and elevate up to about 86". I would think I will end up on tippy toes to pull rods out but it shouldn't be terrible. so height wise, I would be favoring not hitting my head to ease of grabbing. The other part, my livewell is right there so grabbing top bar and standing up on the livewell should cover any folks shorter than me.

As for quantity. I think you are right that more is better but 9 might be good enough. If I were trolling a 7 rod spread and got a hookup, there would be enough for all, I think you are right that I'd probably fill up the lower 4 and not use the top so I see your point about a middle row.

decisions, decisions, decsions I like different perspectives and ideas

[CamB25]

I can't open the link you posted, but in terms of quantity...I think more = better. I have 4 rocket launchers, 8 in the gunnel/gunwale, 3 in the splashwell, and 2 in the helm seat. That's 17...and I'm not really a fisherman. I use them for a grill, downrigger, cutting board, net, etc. 2 are in the bow and support sunshade poles. Handy to have! My t-top is set up to accept outriggers but I haven't added them yet. No one shorter than 6'1" can comfortably use the rocket launchers....they were located to avoid head knocking...my head! I've thought about adding a second row up there to minimize the amount of salt that covers the rods when running out and in. A fresh water tank and washdown hose are on my wish list, but that's a fairly major project on my boat.

Add more!

[ktm_2000]

I've got my timeslot with the pipewelder, going to drop off the boat this saturday.

I am not 100% sure what the final setup will be as I want to get the boat in front of the welder and let him be creative.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/LxJoRhpR8idbprW28

I've got a price for the back legs and 2 rows, I am thinking of having the top rail going forward as a grab bar.

[ktm_2000]

Welder is almost done, just needs to add some tabs for spreader lights and get the cushions from the shop he outsourced that to.
side
https://photos.app.goo.gl/bRcZq7fxndetH3xW6
back
https://photos.app.goo.gl/1X47EDyNdNw82dVq7

I'm happy with how it came out, it should keep rods out any spray while running

[Carl]

Very nice !

[CamB25]

looks great!