I've got the flybridge 99% complete and the Cockpit (except floors). Now I'm starting on my cabin. My question is about cabin weight. I'm trying my best to keep down the weight of the rebuild to have as light a boat as possible. I'm going to use 1/2" coosa for the floors and benches. I'm planning on a 5 cf freezer on the STB side against the rear bulkhead about 65#s plus contents. I'm considering a stainless tool box 4' x 26" as my cabinetry adjacent to the freezer. My concern is the weight. While providing a huge amount of storage it weighs in at 280#s.
My water tank will be on the Port side along with seating.
What do you guys think about overall cabin weight?
Cabin Weight?
Moderators: CaptPatrick, mike ohlstein, Bruce
-
- Posts: 747
- Joined: Jul 22nd, '17, 13:59
Cabin Weight?
Rick Ott
Carolina Reaper
Hull # Don't have a clue
Carolina Reaper
Hull # Don't have a clue
-
- Posts: 137
- Joined: May 11th, '20, 12:39
Re: Cabin Weight?
Rick,
1/2" coosa for the floor might be light depending on the span and laminate schedule. I'm trying to keep my weight as low as possible in my rebuild also. I used a lot of Nidacore (honeycomb) for panels and floors as it is incredibly light.
I am installing my holding tank and water tank, each 15 gallons, under the salon floor, as the boat can use some weight forward of the main bulkhead. I think it is best to have tankage centerline if possible.
From what it sounds like even with the freezer and cabinet, you should end up around or under the original factory configuration weight.
1/2" coosa for the floor might be light depending on the span and laminate schedule. I'm trying to keep my weight as low as possible in my rebuild also. I used a lot of Nidacore (honeycomb) for panels and floors as it is incredibly light.
I am installing my holding tank and water tank, each 15 gallons, under the salon floor, as the boat can use some weight forward of the main bulkhead. I think it is best to have tankage centerline if possible.
From what it sounds like even with the freezer and cabinet, you should end up around or under the original factory configuration weight.
Re: Cabin Weight?
Generally tanks low and on the centerline is best for weight and balance.
Rawleigh
1966 FBC 31
1966 FBC 31
-
- Posts: 747
- Joined: Jul 22nd, '17, 13:59
Re: Cabin Weight?
The area under the cabin floor in my center of the boat will be a large fish/ice hold. I need 300 to 400#s of ice and a coffin box to put large fish. I've wrestled with where to put this but decided putting ice in fish bags in the this area will be the best and lightest solution. I'm probably going to insulate the box then put the fish bags in it. I may need some custom fish bags with extra insulation as well. But the bags are light compared to a 100# cooler. I'll have a kill box in the cockpit.
I don't have any room under the cockpit floor as I'm adding two Aux fuel tanks. I'm trying to get a total 320 gallons of fuel for long range trips. My main fuel tank is 220 gallons.
Going with Lithium batteries was to eliminate weight. I will save 264#s vs AGM batteries and also be able to eliminate a generator. I'll still be able to run an AC at night.
Regarding the 1/2" coosa floors. I've given this a lot of thought to this and talked with several boat builders. They've all told me the same thing. The 1/2" coosa is overkill. Coosa is expensive but its easy to work with and light.
I'm trimming unnecessary weight where possible but the 280# tool box seemed just too easy an install for the value received. Everything in my boat is overbuilt vs the original factory boats.
I don't have any room under the cockpit floor as I'm adding two Aux fuel tanks. I'm trying to get a total 320 gallons of fuel for long range trips. My main fuel tank is 220 gallons.
Going with Lithium batteries was to eliminate weight. I will save 264#s vs AGM batteries and also be able to eliminate a generator. I'll still be able to run an AC at night.
Regarding the 1/2" coosa floors. I've given this a lot of thought to this and talked with several boat builders. They've all told me the same thing. The 1/2" coosa is overkill. Coosa is expensive but its easy to work with and light.
I'm trimming unnecessary weight where possible but the 280# tool box seemed just too easy an install for the value received. Everything in my boat is overbuilt vs the original factory boats.
Rick Ott
Carolina Reaper
Hull # Don't have a clue
Carolina Reaper
Hull # Don't have a clue
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 7036
- Joined: Jun 29th, '06, 21:24
- Location: Hillsdale, New Jersey
- Contact:
Re: Cabin Weight?
Rick
Too light and the boat will bounce a lot more in a head sea.
I would worry more about balancing the weight so you don't have too much on one side.
Too light and the boat will bounce a lot more in a head sea.
I would worry more about balancing the weight so you don't have too much on one side.
1975 FBC BERG1467-315
-
- Posts: 747
- Joined: Jul 22nd, '17, 13:59
Re: Cabin Weight?
I'm pretty sure I won't be too light with the QSB 5.9s. I'm an airplane guy. I want the lightest plane possible with the highest useful load. Same for the boat. I want a light boat to handle more useful load (fuel, people and stuff).
I removed the the vast majority of the shelf (that was a heavy shelf). I mentioned earlier that I was moving my forward bulkhead to 8 feet for the engine bulkhead but after laying it out today, I think I'm moving it to 9 feet. Any issues I need to consider moving it that far forward? I'm trying to strengthen the portion of the boat under the beginning of the bow.
I removed the the vast majority of the shelf (that was a heavy shelf). I mentioned earlier that I was moving my forward bulkhead to 8 feet for the engine bulkhead but after laying it out today, I think I'm moving it to 9 feet. Any issues I need to consider moving it that far forward? I'm trying to strengthen the portion of the boat under the beginning of the bow.
Rick Ott
Carolina Reaper
Hull # Don't have a clue
Carolina Reaper
Hull # Don't have a clue
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot], Google [Bot] and 338 guests