Yanmar 240 Tech Question

Hyena Love · Post by **Hyena Love** » Jul 9th, '07, 13:09

While messing around trying to change the oil this weekend, I noticed that the oil dip stick tube "appears" to be threaded for a hose attachment in order to simply pump out the oil.

Is this true?

If so, whats the thread size? I am not seeing a reference to it in my technical materials.

The shoving a smaller tube down the dip stick tube approach has not worked well for me in the past, but I have not tried it with the new engines. Pulling the plug and messing with pans under the engine typically turns into a bit of a mess with at least a quart of hot oil being dumped in the bilge. Thus, if there is an easier way, I am all ears.

Thanks in advance.

Rawleigh · Post by **Rawleigh** » Jul 9th, '07, 13:13

Mercruiser uses that system, with the dipstick tube going all the way to the bottom of the pan. Theirs is threaded also. Sorry I don't know any particulars on the Yanmars for you Ernest, but you might try a Mercruiser adapter. It almost looks like garden hose threadson those.

In Memory of Vicroy · Post by **In Memory of Vicroy** » Jul 9th, '07, 14:31

Cummins for example, does not have the dipstick tube going to the bottom. Best bet is to get an adapter that replaces the oil pan plug and attach a hyd hose to it, wire tie it to the top of the engine, and use a big flexible impeller pump to suck the oil out. I can suck 16 qts of oil out of the Cummins (each) in about 5 minutes. I keep the pump in a big plastic container lined with newspaper and have about 10' of half inch heater hose on the suction and output sides.....buy a couple of 5 gal. plastic jerry cans for the used oil, and most oil change places will let you pour it out for free.

UV

Bruce · Post by **Bruce** » Jul 9th, '07, 15:07

Forget the hose thread.
Just slide a 3/8 id hose over the stub above the threads.

No need to go inside the tube.

The optional oil change kit attaches to the bottom of the pan and is a 3/8 hose same as the tube.

Tube is just as fast with a good vane pump without heating oil. My little pump will clear that oil in a minute.

A rubber impeller pump is slower and you have to heat oil most of the time.

IRGuy · Post by **IRGuy** » Jul 9th, '07, 17:08

I bought for about $39 at Harbor Freight a small 12 volt rubber impellor pump that has battery clamps on the leads. I use it for lots of things.. vacuuming out the fuel tank and changing engine oil are easy with it. Just be sure to not run it dry.. I pour some oil into it at first to lube the impellor before starting it.

Charlie J · Post by **Charlie J** » Jul 9th, '07, 18:31

bruce
i use the jabsco 110v pump with rubber impeller seems to take forever, what make vane pump do you recommend.
thanks
charlie

CaptPatrick · Post by **CaptPatrick** » Jul 9th, '07, 19:10

Charlie,

I may be wrong, but I think this is the one:

Rotary Vane Puppy Series Pump. Go2Marine seams to have the best current price that I've found...

Br,

Patrick

randall · Post by **randall** » Jul 9th, '07, 20:28

mike and i did his last week...both engines and the gen.....i have one of those you pump it a few times and it sucks (timmy can insert rude comment here) do dads and no motors, batteries vanes or impellers and you do stick the plastic hose down the dip stick tube......it works fine

Bruce · Post by **Bruce** » Jul 10th, '07, 04:43

Does the oil need to be hot?

RussP · Post by **RussP** » Jul 10th, '07, 07:03

Bruce, I know there are two different ways of thinking when chaning oil. Some like to heat the oil to get the inpurities floating and some like to change it cold or room temp. I perfer to change it cold espicially when sucking from the bottem of the oil pan, what's your thoughts.

RussP

CaptPatrick · Post by **CaptPatrick** » Jul 10th, '07, 07:38

Russ,

About the only reason to change oil when it's hot is to lower the viscosity, making it easier to pull through a smaller orfice and/or less resistance to the pump. If a vane pump is utilized, it is not necessary to heat the oil because a vane pump is positive displacement.

If the engine is run to heat the oil, allow a few minutes after shut down for the oil to drain from the galleries.

Br,

Patrick

Eddy G · Post by **Eddy G** » Jul 10th, '07, 08:02

Ernest: I used the drain plug fitting and hose on mine. I have one of those 12v Jabsco bucket pumps that will suck it dry in about 3 minutes. The pump reverses so you can pump the old oil back into the oil bottles after you fill the engines. I have always warmed the engines up prior to changing mainly to coat everything with oil. Even after filling the new filters with oil prior to installing them, there is a slight delay in oil pressure during the first start up. Not sure how far that dip stick tube goes down, but it would seem that sucking off of the drain hole would get more sediment out if there was any.

Eddy G.

RussP · Post by **RussP** » Jul 10th, '07, 08:28

I fully understand thinning the oil to help the pump but some old time diesel mechanics claim the inpurities in the oil settle on the bottem of the pan and warming the engine gets the particulate matter suspended in the oil for removal. It's convient when some of the boats have oil changing systems plumbed in but there is always a few quarts in the hoses that never get fully removed and filling just pushes the last of the sludge back in the system with the fresh oil. I use a 12 V grainger pump for oil & diesel systems and never warm up the oil if I could help it. Right now it's hovering a little over 90* I would just love to crawl into a engine room with 180* diesels to do a oil change.

Patrick I'm triming the perimiter of my teak & holly cabin sole with solid teak. It was a flashback from th old days, just aother trick I learned from the old dog.
RussP

randall · Post by **randall** » Jul 10th, '07, 08:39

helps if the oil is hot but ive done mine with the oil cold...takes longer but still works......im a fan of systems that work all the time....like the salt water wash down pumps in panama.........one time when jesse was 4 or five we came into the beach in the canoe....two guys were giving an outboard pull starter a vigorous work out....jesse looks at me , looks at the guys, and says "our motor starts every time"

Bruce · Post by **Bruce** » Jul 10th, '07, 15:58

Russ,
I have removed many oil pans which receive regular oil change maintenance. Some with very high hours do show signs of metal flakes resting on the pan.

Most engine show no signs of anything on the pan.

Better bearing materials and better casting with less flash really eliminate the need for that action.

But at one time it was a good idea. The key words were "old timer".

scot · Post by **scot** » Jul 10th, '07, 21:25

Ernest,

I was in your neck of the woods last weekend...had Bob's Crab Nachos, good stuff.

Are you at the Boliver Yatch Basin? or, are you on a canal? I was wondering how the accomodations are and are there typically seasonal monthly slips availible?

If I EVER finish the project I will be keeping the boat at Pleasure Island, but may want to summer in Boliver. What's the distance to the end of the Galveston Jetties?

I believe it's considerably closer than the trip from Pleasure Island's Marina to the end of the Sabine Jetties.

Hyena Love · Post by **Hyena Love** » Jul 11th, '07, 07:41

I am in the Yacht Basin - which is a misleading name, at best. Very few yachts and hardly a basin.

For slings, unlikely to be any availability. For open slips, they appear to have a few now, depending on the size of the vessel. Some shrimpers have what appear to be seasonal deals.

From my slip to the my "departure point" just past the end of the south jetty is 14 n.m. Thats roughly 5 n.m down the ICW, and then 9 to the mouth.

I would rate the accomidations as decent. Much more reasonable than the slips in Galveston, but basic. Water and electricity. Small bait camp. Mostly a bay fishing and near shore crowd. Couple bigger boats. Only minor theft problem thus far. Basically zero maint. or support services.

Next time you are down there, stop by. I am in sling 152 (the only Bert there) and the skiff is in something like 120. In the area, I am known primarily by my alias - Jesus Nixon.

Thanks guys. On the oil topic, I am just delighted not to be running the 30w with a quart of STP like in the old gasser days. Now that stuff was tough to suck thru a tube.

Capt. Mike Holmes · Post by **Capt. Mike Holmes** » Jul 11th, '07, 07:41

Scot, I've been to the marina on Pleasure Island, and I've been through Port Arthur in the ICW, but how do you get to the ICW from the marina, or verse vicesa? Do you have to go through the lake?

scot · Post by **scot** » Jul 11th, '07, 07:59

Mike,

Yes, through Lake Sabine. You go in at the South end under the bridge that connects Pleasure Island to Louisiana. there's plenty of water in the lake and depth is never an issue from the Sabine/Neches Ship Channel all the way to the marina on the island...assuming you stay FAR AWAY from the Louisiana shore line in the lake.

As far as the bridge goes, a 31 FB (in it's natural state) will go under it. My friends 31 has a radar arch and he has to lower it to get under.....BUT the bridge is manned and they will answer the marine radio and open it for you if you give them a few miles notice. This is what my buddy does, just to keep from having to drop the arch.

Ernest...I guess I was wrong about Boliver being closer to the GoM than Pleasure Island, it's almost the same.

Hyena Love · Post by **Hyena Love** » Jul 12th, '07, 11:14

Well, it still is. I am 5 n.m up the island/pen. Then, when I clear the jetties, I am in deeper water quicker. Not as quick as Freeport, or Mata., but better than Sabine.

Best plan, move the boat to TSL. Short runs, deep water, and cheap labor.

bertram31.com

Yanmar 240 Tech Question

Yanmar 240 Tech Question

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