Here’s a couple pics of my 48 year ol’Girl. She’s getting new covering boards, port side has been removed. Side and transom panels have been primed.Waiting for warmer weather for new top coat, mixed two colors to match motor boxes, gel-coat a tad faded. Cabinets to be repainted. Transom to be finished sanded, prime then painted, although never seen. Wheels to be re-conditioned. Helm pump and steering cylinder rebuilt, pump started leaking a tad during our Striped Bass season. Did them both. Ordered new Furuno Electronics. Door and bulkhead to be painted with mixed color paint.Motor Maintenance another story. Staying busy....Tuna fish will be here soon, fingers are crossed. EarleyBird
No Sir, though the boat is there. Doing everything myself, except the covering board installation. I’m removing them. Chris’s Dad Lonnie put them on in 1988.Met a guy that did a lot of wood working for Viking, now on his own, mostly covering boards. Have a friend who had him do work to his 31, impressive. I’ll help too. Jim
i was so cautious i went with a cardboard mockup and then pine template because i wanted a miter on the corners of transom that was complicated by three angles .the transom gunnel is actually bowed and radiuses. i used Burmise teak about four times the price of farm grown teak the difference is Burmise teak taken from trees in the wild do not check so very important. i was happy with the results until i saw Bob H beautiful Bahia Mar now that`s perfection because he also carry the teak on the inside 6" reveal around the cockpit. i did not cut away that ledge along the gunnels i built up with epoxy and mahogany until even and screwed and epoxy the coaming boards from underneath with fender washers.better off taking lessons from Bob H.!
Have already purchased the boards They’re almost 5/4, 2 are 12.5’X15”, transom piece is 9.5”x14” and another board is 4”x10’ for the vertical piece I have along transom panel (to include scupper cut-outs). They don’t give them away! Chris Carver has templates made already that we will be using. The present boards were biscuit jointed, screw from underneath and glued. That joint eventually let go and I routed a new two inch wide board to repair checked seam. The new ones will only be glued. I have/had coaming pads, they looked great, but in reality never stayed dry even with drain holes on bottom side. Every three or 4 years they need replacing.$$$$. Now will have teak around that reveal. Teak deck will get a light sanding, that we put it in 2002, still in great shape, except a couple nicks from the Hammerheads I have taken fishing, ONCE.I believe if the new ones last as long as the present ones someone else will be driving the EarleyBird, and catching a couple Tuna fish. Shrink wrap will come off a little Earley, March 1st. to get started, hopefully in the water beginning of May catch one of those big Girls coming up 60 fathoms. EarleyBird
Tony, that would be great seeing you. A good friend of mine has his 31 in the shed next to me, you want to see a real pretty one, gotta check this one out. Bang A Rang is her name. Yup, we have our hands full with a lot of work and upgrades going on, but they certainly aren’t new boats from the factory. For me that’s what makes them half the fun. Thank goodness the motor work is finished, biggest upgrade last week was new gear driven SW pumps, starboard showed signs of seal leaking, did them both. Get the steering system back together is next, though have a heater under the shrink wrap, gotta warm up a tad before I install helm pump and steering cylinder. EarleyBird
The attempt was to get in for flounder...but they have become far and few in between unless I wanted to run far. I like catching the little guys...but not that much.
So now it's in early enough for the Spring Bass run.
our flounder population on south shore of long island totally destroyed by seals wintering over and by Cormorants all year on long island. years ago they were plentiful in early spring and the first salt water species available for avid fisherman in the spring .i am not putting my boat in the water until april for the first time in sixteen years.winter project this years will be new rudder boxes and stainless rudder bearings.
Plan is to float her by the first week of May. Just added another project yesterday. Removed the generator from her yesterday, had to take the electrical end off. Would of been an historical feat for two of us to lift out the zippered shrink wrapped door, to an eight foot ladder then the ground. In garage with the rest of the Winter Projects. Took most of the motor block pieces off today, and will glass bead, wire wheel, it all. Self-etching primer then Cummins white. Have a 21’ Allied for a couple tries at Winter Flounder down here Manasquan/Northern Barneget Bay. Again hopefully start tuna fishing with the ol’Girl Earley May. EarleyBird
Back in the day, we use to be in by first week in April to chase Mackerel but that run has not been around for years. It did show some life last year but it was short.
Used to be Mackerel in early to mid April then the Blue Fish would show up right on their tails. Now that I am older and I no longer have the crew I used to have to work on the boat, and I do most of the work myself, I take my time. I have a couple of things to do once the cover is off, so I am figuring May.
One project almost completed. Generator will not be re-assembled or installed until the covering boards are finished. Make it a bit easier to epoxy and clamp them with this being out of the way, which sits on port decking outboard of the engine. Started to roll and tip the port side panel this afternoon. Furuno Chart Plotter/Sounder in Florida waiting to be shipped. Radar and Chart Plotter Bracket back ordered til March. Rebuilt Hynautic Helm Pump and Cylinder in possession. Motor maintenance finished except Racor changeout. EarleyBird
No Sir pneumatic die grinder with wire wheels, scraped tough areas with a short bladed putty knife, hand sanded in those hard to get at spots with 50 grit. Smoothed the scored areas with 120. Rodded out Heat exchanger, new zinc, new belts, new SW pump impeller, new isolators, wood sealed mahogany foundation pieces. Etching Spray Primer, Cummins white spray paint. New anti-freeze and 30W oil after I install. EarleyBird
The stark white engine components are really intriguing. Not being too familiar with diesels, coming across a solid color (especially white) engine meets my eye much more comfortably than the conventional look of a gas engine with a bunch of different colored components. Looks great and seems to be very practical for a bunch of reasons. There’s something industrial sci-if about it too. It must make an engine bay a lot nicer place to work in.
Great progress so far. Good luck with the rest of the list!
Leaks...Not suppose to leak. Tony I have touched up the motors in a few places before. I have taken them out twice, I made a lifting beam especially for this engine. It takes longer to disconnect hoses, plug and cap fuel lines, unbolt couplings and isolators than it does lifting them out. I had a young man pull my port trolling valve lever up one time as he was standing next to me on a rough ride home from fluking, used it as a a device to balance himself. Headed Offshore two days later, never noticed it, 12 miles later at 2300 rpms that was the end of the ahead discs on that ZF 220 gear. First thing I check before they get fired up now. Another time I renewed all heat exchangers, hoses, isolators etc. Easier to yank them out, and paint. EarleyBird
Tony...you should be able to spruce them up fairly well. Just make sure there is no grease or soot prior to painting, sand lightly, prime bare metal. Have aluminum foil and painters tape to avoid overspray, small cardboard pieces help to. Wipe with a compatible spray paint solvent prior to paint.
Here are my side panel doors primed, lightly sanded, rolled and tipped. Mixed two colors, Petite EZ Poxy 2/1 Hatteras Off White\ Semi-Gloss White. Try to do a couple panels today, limited garage space EarleyBird
Thanks Jim I will paint the trans when the weather gets warmer the wife says it stinks the house out when I paint in the garage. Just finished up oil change lines and oil cooler lines. Shafts came last week. I am ready to get moving on the install.
Instead of pulling the motors to paint them, is there an alternative?
I was thinking of laser cleaning that removes all rust and all debris accumulated in no time, the result seems (at least in YouTube videos) spectacular.
There exist portable laser machines that could possibly come to the boat and do the job (?)
Does this service really exist? Is it doable? Has anyone thought of doing it?
Thanks.
They are not fiberglass Tony. The P&S side panel doors are 1/2” marine plywood with Formica glued over top, primed and painted. All 3 panels P&S and Aft are 1/4” marine plywood with Formica on the inboard sides and West System Epoxy on the outboard sides. Framed with mahogany to accept the panel doors using piano hinge for opening and closing. Deltana brass latches to hold closed. EarleyBird
i recognized some big time talent going on here so i will ask: who had the golden hands to turn the outflow elbows 180 degrees around on the rear of heat exchanger to clear the correct installation of up and over exhaust ?
Hey Bob hope all is well with you. I did a lot of research before diving in I saw your heat exchangers and couple others and decided that was the way to go.
EarleyBird wrote: ↑Feb 14th, '21, 05:41
They are not fiberglass Tony. The P&S side panel doors are 1/2” marine plywood with Formica glued over top, primed and painted. All 3 panels P&S and Aft are 1/4” marine plywood with Formica on the inboard sides and West System Epoxy on the outboard sides. Framed with mahogany to accept the panel doors using piano hinge for opening and closing. Deltana brass latches to hold closed. EarleyBird
Jim
Thanks. They look good and seem to be holding up well for you.
Thanks Tony,yeah,they take a beating but have held up well. Coated the outboard sides about a month ago with West. Finished rolling and tipping the panels today, finished that cosmetic project. Next up re-install the rebuilt Hynautic steering system, cylinder and helm pump. EarleyBird
neil wrote: ↑Feb 14th, '21, 18:53
Bob I don’t know if you know the early bird is my brother in-law the only thing he can’t fix is a broken heart,we hope all is welll with youu
'
that figures neil and know i did not know. that Jersey clan is laden with talent
Yes Sir, Neil and Neil Jr. are related by marriage. They own a pretty Bahia Mar, which in itself could be another story (Topic). Side panels, doors, trim are finished. Hynautic helm pump in today.. Scratch those off the list. EarleyBird
Thanks Snipes. By the way how’d you get that nick name? The ol’Girl needed some TLC, she’s been fished hard the past few years. In addition I have the time, usually go to FLA for a couple months but we all know what changed that. Gotta stay busy, and I’m having fun.
Welcome Don Clark! Don’t believe you’ll find a more knowledgeable and opinionated Group of Bertram Owners. Have Fun, Be Safe! EarleyBird
No Carl not my love for snow, but caution of getting the Covid Virus while towing a boat to the Keys, staying in Motels down and back, and eating meals out quit often. Working in asbestos insulated steam pipes in engine rooms for 30 years and being over 65, simply not taking a chance. Besides the ol’Girl is getting some needed TLC before we start looking for those big Girls out around 60 fathoms....Having fun too! EarleyBird
LOL...yeah, I didn't really think it was your love of snow keeping you North.
Better to be safe then sorry without a doubt when it comes to COVID. Lots get it without more then Flu-like issues and some are far from being that lucky.
Hopefully next year will be closer to normal...whatever that is.
and speaking about talent i notice the oil filter relocation on starboard engine and i imagine fuel relocation filter on the port engine . moving right along you found that storm block plug a couple inches to the rear of oil filter original location. that plug was removed and 220 volt/750 watt submergible heat element goes there using a 220 volt heating element on 110 volt will make it last 1000 years off course you are using Cummins blue coolant keeping engines at 75 degrees 24 hours a day 365 days a year. engine look like they do now 15 years from now.engines look great and you are way ahead of "the curve" best of luck this season.
P&S side teak boards are off and half the transom. What a job, lotta a chiseling, when all the teak is off, then I gotta remove the glue! Am not looking forward to that EarleyBird
No Tony, they were on the boat when my Dad and I bought her in August of 1986. He passed 6 weeks later. I have maintained them ever since, with a couple strengthening modification. They will get primed and painted this spring too. EarleyBird
tony that "shelf" is a engineering feat that,is done with care an a excellent cockpit feature .you start with the center piece of cockpit floor that is Coosa board 26 blue 3/4" thick when llayed up with biaxle two layers on bottom and one layer on top it becomes 15/16" the center piece sits on the two floor supports on either side of tank and is rabbeted the next two pieces both port and starboard side of center piece rest and on the rabbit joint with floor support directly under the outside you install oa new floor support directly over the joint to existing outside stringer for maximum strength.next is the important part the next part of cockpit deck is 3/4" Azek that forms the key under the gunnels and attached to that belly band with sikaflex. because it is 3/4" thick the water run off on cockpit floor will run in this channel with a 4" piece of Azak along transom directly into the sealed scupper box and out the transom. cockpit floor is always dry especially when using wash down pump to get rid of tuna blood or just cleaning cockpit at sea. basically if i didn't`t tell people whom ask they would never sea the slight pitch of the two pieces of cockpit floor tilted to the outside but it works. that belly band also add tremendous strength to the hull at the most critical point above chine.
Last edited by bob lico on Feb 21st, '21, 18:59, edited 2 times in total.
That’s it, all three boards are off. Enough of those steel headed Stanley chisels and ball peen hammer. Next up something that runs on electricity, that can remove a lot of glue. Have several in mind! That chat will be down the road. EarleyBird