Flax packing size
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Flax packing size
I am having trouble getting the packing to go into my new stuffing boxes (Buck Algonquin part # 00PB138G - the two bolt type). Their catalog calls for 3/8" packing for my shaft size (1 3/8") which is the size that I am using. I had the idea that it should just slide right into the gap between the shaft and the box, but even with when I tighten the bolts, half the width of the first row still sticks out. There is clearly no way that I am going to be able to get three rows of packing in there. Is it possible that there is a misprint in the catalog?
Peter Schauss
Water-Lou
1978 B31 SF (BERG 1727M781-314)
Water-Lou
1978 B31 SF (BERG 1727M781-314)
Re: Flax packing size
3 rows is usually right- Cut on a bias installed with cuts 120 deg apart (aprox).
Packing goes in tight and the material can be a little stiff. I have taken to putting it on a clean surface and tapping it with a clean hammer to loosen the weave. That allows it to go in a bit easier.
Still too snug? put your row or two in, snug up the gland, then take off and try to insert the next row.
New packing is going to move around a bit and settle in on your first ride or two...make sure stuffing box does not get hot when running AKA- Too tight.
and excessive leaking-- you guessed it, TOO loose.
A drop or 2 leaking a minute when stopped is normal and what you want to see.
It's going to be one of those things you'll have to check the first few rides till it settles...then rarely will you have to adjust.
I prefer over dripless.
Packing goes in tight and the material can be a little stiff. I have taken to putting it on a clean surface and tapping it with a clean hammer to loosen the weave. That allows it to go in a bit easier.
Still too snug? put your row or two in, snug up the gland, then take off and try to insert the next row.
New packing is going to move around a bit and settle in on your first ride or two...make sure stuffing box does not get hot when running AKA- Too tight.
and excessive leaking-- you guessed it, TOO loose.
A drop or 2 leaking a minute when stopped is normal and what you want to see.
It's going to be one of those things you'll have to check the first few rides till it settles...then rarely will you have to adjust.
I prefer over dripless.
Re: Flax packing size
Peter--Are you sure you got all the old packing out? On mine the last row of packing was so tightly compacted I thought it was part of the fitting and could only get two rows of the new packing in. Also pay attention to what Carl said and be careful not to tighten too much to begin with. That was another mistake I made and when I checked after a couple miles and the thing was too hot to touch. I had to remove all the burned packing and start over.
Doug Pratt
Bertram 31 Amberjack
FBC hull #315-820
Bertram 31 Amberjack
FBC hull #315-820
Re: Flax packing size
These are new packing boxes so there was no packing to remove.
What happens if I go down to 1/4" and add extra rows to compensate.
Carl,
I'll try the bit the hammer.
What happens if I go down to 1/4" and add extra rows to compensate.
Carl,
I'll try the bit the hammer.
Peter Schauss
Water-Lou
1978 B31 SF (BERG 1727M781-314)
Water-Lou
1978 B31 SF (BERG 1727M781-314)
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Re: Flax packing size
Peter
Try Gore Tex packing. Might slide in easier. I always was able to use the flange to push in each row. Something is wrong if they will not go in.
Try Gore Tex packing. Might slide in easier. I always was able to use the flange to push in each row. Something is wrong if they will not go in.
1975 FBC BERG1467-315
Re: Flax packing size
I followed Carl’s suggestion and flattened the flax with a hammer. I was able to get two rows in but there was only room for half the thickness of the third.
I will try 5/16 flax on the other shaft and if that works I’ll redo the first with 5/16
The packing in the old stuffing boxes looks like it was either 1/4” or 5/16.
I will try 5/16 flax on the other shaft and if that works I’ll redo the first with 5/16
The packing in the old stuffing boxes looks like it was either 1/4” or 5/16.
Peter Schauss
Water-Lou
1978 B31 SF (BERG 1727M781-314)
Water-Lou
1978 B31 SF (BERG 1727M781-314)
Re: Flax packing size
Peter-I would stay with the maximum size that will fit between the shaft and the stuffing box. You want the rings to "stack" on top of each other so they remain uniform as you tighten the collar, not slip out of position and create gaps. If you can only fit 2 1/2 rings, try pre-cutting to length, then use a sharp razor to cut one in half lengthwise. Position the half ring between the two full size rings, then tighten. I had the same problem and this worked for me. There are also packing lubricants available you can use to help slip them into place and ease the break-in during initial turns.pschauss wrote:What happens if I go down to 1/4" and add extra rows to compensate.
Doug Pratt
Bertram 31 Amberjack
FBC hull #315-820
Bertram 31 Amberjack
FBC hull #315-820
Re: Flax packing size
pschauss wrote:What happens if I go down to 1/4" and add extra rows to compensate.
Perfect explanation of "Why Not"Amberjack wrote: Peter-I would stay with the maximum size that will fit between the shaft and the stuffing box. You want the rings to "stack" on top of each other so they remain uniform as you tighten the collar, not slip out of position and create gaps.
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Or leave two rings in...they will squash and fit themselves in short time.
You can then add that 3rd ring when in the water after the first or second time you need to re-adjust packing.
It sounds scarier then it is to remove the packing gland in the water...but whats the worst that can happen, "you sink".
Soon as you past that its easier.
AND
Chances of sinking are slim as only so much water can pass between shaft and gland...I forget the spec on how much water can come in.
But that is beside the point...you'd still have two rings of packing in the gland body so water only trickles into the boat.
No gushers, no bailing
Re: Flax packing size
After a boat yard failed to resolve my issue during a haul out I wound up doing all my shaft packing work while in the water. There is surprisingly little water inflow, probably because our boat shafts sit so shallow. Doing the work in the water gave me a much better idea of how tight to go on the first round of tightening. I was also able to kick the boat into forward idle to settle in the packing material before doing a little more tightening.Amberjack wrote: It sounds scarier then it is to remove the packing gland in the water...but whats the worst that can happen, "you sink".
Soon as you past that its easier.
AND
Chances of sinking are slim as only so much water can pass between shaft and gland...I forget the spec on how much water can come in.
But that is beside the point...you'd still have two rings of packing in the gland body so water only trickles into the boat.
No gushers, no bailing
An interesting aside--I used Teflon packing with a packing lubricant which apparently gave me an airtight seal...I couldn't get more than two rings in and still tighten the collar. An experienced boat mechanic suggested the idea of putting the shaft in slow idle then he tightened the collar. After a couple rounds of this the gland gave a big sigh like passing gas and I was able to tighten enough to add the third ring. I had an air bubble trapped between the rings.
Doug Pratt
Bertram 31 Amberjack
FBC hull #315-820
Bertram 31 Amberjack
FBC hull #315-820
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 7036
- Joined: Jun 29th, '06, 21:24
- Location: Hillsdale, New Jersey
- Contact:
Re: Flax packing size
When I had packing glands, I did it in the water a number of times. As Amberjack said, it is surprising how little water flows in.
1975 FBC BERG1467-315
Re: Flax packing size
Tony Meola wrote:When I had packing glands, I did it in the water a number of times. As Amberjack said, it is surprising how little water flows in.
Tony- that is by design. When we used to machine packing glands there was an inner body dimension that had to be kept. The idea was that if the top part of the gland came off and packing came out only a certain amount of water could come in. I want to say it was .016 clearance between shaft and inner bore of gland. I think that clearance would allow something like 5 gallons of water a minute to flow in, supposedly with pumps it would give the captain time to find the issue and remedy.
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