Opinions on this B31 I'm Considering Purchasing

dgomezhall · Post by **dgomezhall** » Feb 21st, '20, 15:25

Hi everyone,

Been reading through all of the valuable information on this board, and have been starting to look at boats.

I'd love some input from anyone who is willing to look through the photos linked below.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/a7o8u8ab60mz ... QmaWa?dl=0

This is a boat I went and looked at the other day. It has a lot going for it, Cummins 6BTA engines, nice original details, a re-worked interior that works for my use. But looking closely, it looks like a project that hasn't quite been finished. The boat was running last fall, but has been sitting since then. I'm still waiting for more details from the owner about the work done and any outstanding work.

I would really appreciate any thoughts you have looking at the "guts" of the boat from the photos.

It looks to me like the owner removed the generator (I found a thru-hull, and there is still a controller mounted inside). There is also an A/C unit, but that's likely not functioning without adding a secondary shore circuit.

I'm not sure what you all think about the rudder mounts, props, it looks to me like there are two slightly different rudders...things like that.

Thanks in advance, and I hope to be joining your ranks soon, whether with this boat or something else. I'm mainly looking for a "howdy" boat for cruising the PNW, won't be doing any serious fishing.

Thanks!

Tail Chaser · Post by **Tail Chaser** » Feb 21st, '20, 15:49

I like this one also... and with it being on our coast makes it that much more attractive. It looks like the top can fold back which I like too. Good job on the pics, on yachtworld it doesn't have very many.

Anyone know what it typically costs to get a boat survey by a professional?

And dont worry yet my wife cant even look at boats until after tax season! Ha ha

dgomezhall · Post by **dgomezhall** » Feb 21st, '20, 15:58

Haha, yeah I was hoping this wouldn't lead to me getting swooped on the boat, but there's just a lot of questions. Not sure if this is one of those things where the project just needs to be finished, or if it needs to be restarted by taking some of the work back apart.

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Feb 21st, '20, 17:21

One rudder is an original the other was put together.

Struts are cobbed together and the inside side should have larger backing pads.

Plumbing leaves a bit to be desired as does the electrical. Example, Intake water...one tries not to use 90's as it restricts flow...they have multiple cramped in one spot around the shaft, log and coupler...need to work on any one of those is gonna be a bear.

Cosmetically and interior look pretty good.

I'd take a long look at it closely looking under and inside hatches and compartments. The hidden stuff that is important looks kinda...makeshift. And thats only what I can see.

Then again if price is right most of its there...

Amberjack · Post by **Amberjack** » Feb 21st, '20, 17:51

Questions I would ask:

How long has he owned the boat
Who owned it before him
Where has it been berthed. Then I'd start contacting the area Cummins mechanics asking if they are familiar with the boat & it's engines
Let's see the records going a long way back
These boats have character and are usually pretty well known so you should be able to find background on it, especially from other B31 owners in the area. Speaking of which what is the name? Maybe I know it.

If its one or two owners for the last 10-15 years I might feel pretty good. If someone bought it to flip or bought it recently thinking a DIY project and got overwhelmed I'd feel less good. I must say the interior looks good from a distance.

Carl is right, it looks as though someone knocked a strut and rudder off at some time. If it was recently check for signs of water damage the boat could have flooded and be why its up for sale. Geez, I'm cynical.

mike ohlstein · Post by **mike ohlstein** » Feb 21st, '20, 19:35

Some interesting stuff. The Charles charger is top shelf. The Fisher Panda Gen Set was a fortune. I guess it rusted out? The props are under size. The struts don't look original, but I could be wrong.

I don't like the stern thru-hull that's below the waterline. What was that from? The gen set? Outlet should have been 12" higher.

Otherwise, it looks like a nice boat.

Uncle Vic always said, 'the money's in the iron'.

Get a proper engine survey.

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Feb 21st, '20, 21:58

A surveyor on this one will be well worth the money. Some things that I see that make me wonder. I see wire caps on the some of the wiring. Battery wiring needs to be cleaned up. Strut pads as carl said. Props for 330 cummins should be 20 or 21 inch with a pitch somewhere between 21 and 23 with some cup added.

As Carl and others said, struts, strut pads look like they were changed but not the right way. That is a weak spot on the boat. Most of us have beefed those up with bigger pads to spread the load. There are other areas that are of concern. That is why a surveyor would be well worth the money. They should tell what needs to be addressed now and what you can do as you go along.

Cosmetically does not look bad, but where are his electronics. I must have missed that.

Also looks like they painted the window frames, and it also looks like they had a cover on them to keep the water out. Not sure out by you, but around here the Electra San is a no go.

Dep[ending n what he is asking and what the surveyor says, who knows it might be a deal with those diesels in her. They are pretty much bullet proof, but the after coolers need to be serviced every couple of years.

Good luck.

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Feb 22nd, '20, 10:25

Tail Chaser wrote: It looks like the top can fold back which I like too. ha

I don't want to rain on your parade, but the tower has adjustable mounting points not hinges for folding.
If you pulled the bolts leaving only the main poles hoping to hinge fore or aft, the support rods are in the way. If you tried to use the smaller supports to hinge top...they are not beefy enough to hold the weight...and that's if they are in line and angled correctly to allow pivoting.

That said, could you make it foldable, yeah maybe cutting and installing hinges and quick releases...but it would be tricky most likely needing tower to come off and be re powder coated after welding...or short term cap and pin ends.

What are your height restrictions that you need to fold top down?

Once you get into larger boats, towers and tops are not often built to be folded outside of areas with low fixed bridges and such. And then many owners buy and rig boats that fit.
Running the inter coastal some years ago I had to drop my outriggers going under several bridges...IT GETS OLD FAST.

Tail Chaser · Post by **Tail Chaser** » Feb 22nd, '20, 12:04

I 14 ft would be the maximun on the trailer. I plan on fabricating something foldable IFF needed. I understand the getting old part having to do needless things, but to make my dreams come true I will rig my boat hopefully with less laborious tasks. At the same time keeping the boat out of the water changes labor too...

Donmystic1 · Post by **Donmystic1** » Feb 22nd, '20, 17:49

Considering the bastard rudders and struts I would suspect that maybe the boat grounded at sometime damaging the running gear.
Maybe have a fiberglass guy look for previous damage that has been repaired.

John F. · Post by **John F.** » Feb 23rd, '20, 07:26

I agree with the above. In one of the pics near the end, it almost looks like there's a crack in a stringer. The boat needs a fair amount of work on the electric (wiring nuts?), plumbing, and basic organization. For example, I'd remove and glass over that thru-hull that Mike pointed out, and fix the plumbing or relocate t he the-hull that Carl pointed out. I'd also go through the wiring right right away. The The really good part is that she looks like someone spent a lot of money on her. Cleaning, redoing electric and plumbing is a lot less costly than repowering or redoing an interior. Get a good survey on the motors and the rest of the boat and see where you are. And it all comes down to what she'll sell for. Good luck

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Feb 23rd, '20, 10:28

I'm going to make a few guesses based on pictures and the fact I have a few minutes to kill.

Fuel tank was replaced from glass to aluminum.
Glass was considered a lifetime tank so either it was a gas boat and when ethanol came along the found out ethanol was not compatible with the glass resin OR they wanted more range..early glass tanks only carried 170 gallons. I'm leaning gas motors...

If gas boat and early based on original rudder design...it may have had the 10° shaft angle that was setup for 15" wheels with 1-1/4" shafts with very thin wall cutless bearing in struts.
That means going diesel required larger shafts with new struts( no material to open up size) What is available for boat in struts is 15°angle struts...which also now means new shaft log and a good amount of glasswork on bottom.
SO what I am guessing, in an effort to keep similar configuration, cost down and the least amount of work they opted to fabricate new struts that are a little longer to accommodate a larger wheel while keeping same shaft log. On my boat I was able to squeeze a 17" wheel on and run. With only a 1/2" tip clearance to hull it wasn't ideal...but worked. 18" would not take too much to make work.
It looks like someone associated with the boat has a good amount of metal fabrication skills...so when time for making struts they mocked up the setup and tacked in place. V-Struts are so much easier to tweak and adjust when mocking up, then do not move, lean and pull when welding as does our standard strut. It's a great design for git-er-done and strong to boot. I'd even venture to guess the same person made the hardtop structure. It looks good, well made but done the same way I would have made mine. Simple straight forward mounts that are adjustable and later powder coated. Marine towers makers use annodized alum tube a bit larger in diameter with matching ends or fit and weld flanges.
Last...the rudder. original design has the SS shaft cost into bronze blade. Over the years...sometimes small hits the shaft gets looose and repairing is a real bear...some one with the above skills can put one together realativly easy.

So point is...I'm not thinking boat had a hard landing but had an owner that had or was friendly with someone that had good metal fabrication skills when refit and top was made. But then I also wonder if they had knowledge of marine work. Did they know 316l SS and rod should be used over other grades of SS.

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » Feb 23rd, '20, 10:52

Carl,

If you ever fail in your profession, try CSI Miami !!!

Also, you forgot to tell us what color were the eyes of the friend welder’s ! Lol !

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Feb 23rd, '20, 21:27

Yannis wrote:Carl,

If you ever fail in your profession, try CSI Miami !!!

Also, you forgot to tell us what color were the eyes of the friend welder’s ! Lol !

The welders eyes are brown, but not sure what that has to do with anything.

Yannis, my ramblings and conjectures prove one thing...we are all just guessing. Get a survey

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Feb 23rd, '20, 22:17

Carl

I will take your CSI work a step further, I would say she was built somewhere between 1960 and 1966. You can tell by the vents just below the pillar. They are against the pillar. Friend had a 67 and they had stopped using that design by then.

Also if built in that period it definitely had the 160/170 gallon fuel tank. If I remember correctly they did not increase the size of the tank until the early 70's.

dgomezhall · Post by **dgomezhall** » Feb 24th, '20, 14:23

Wow, thank you everyone who has provided some input so far...clear that you all have a lot of experience with these boats. If I decide to move forward, I would absolutely engage an marine surveyor, and engine surveyor.

A few updates/comments/questions, to hopefully provide more info/clarity:

Boat is named Weezie, listed as a 1961, below is the "listing" but I am still awaiting more information about the history, how long the current owner has had the boat, etc.

Accommodations
• Teak and holly floor & teak interior.
• Custom Interior rod holders
• 12 volts/ 120-volt panel
• Engine batteries with Perko shut offs
• Teak baton wall covering
• Teak and holly soles
• Head with electric toilet, teak covered storage area and overhead light
• White vinyl upholstery on settee and front curtains
• New mattress with cover
• Storage areas behind settee cushions
• Custom mattress for forward berth
• Custom overhead rod holders (9)
• Incandescent and fluorescent lighting options
• Carbon Monoxide alarm

Galley
• Custom teak cabinet in galley
• Galley counter with teak moldings
• Microwave built-in
• Stainless Steel sink
• Refrigerator

New Items
• New Complete Awlgrip paint
• New Non-skid
• New ½ Top, canvas
• New Garmin 714 SX
• New steering pump and plumbing
• New helm seat & cover & helm cover
• New bridge ladder
• New engine boxes
• New cockpit covering boards
• New cockpit coaming padding
• New swim platform
• Complete service on engines
• New windows, rebuilt frames & re-bedded
• All metal trim re-chromed & polished
• New epoxy bottom and paint
• Re-conditioned props
• Re-conditioned shafts and new cutlass bearings
• Shaft logs re-packed
• New 220-gallon fuel tank
• New bilge pumps and alarms
• New upholstery
• All bright work re-finished
• New Caulkins 3 axel trailer with gooseneck custom to fit 31’ Bertram

Electrical
• The entire 12-volt and 110-volt system has been rewired.
• Shore power cord -30amp
• Yacht battery charger
• Gel house battery
• Battery (1-2-off) switches
• Xantex Truecharger 40-amp Charger

Deck
• New style fiberglass cockpit deck
• Refinished. New light weight sound insulated engine covers.
• Aluminum rub rail replaced with custom PVC and Stainless rub rail.
• Full engine panel (tachometers, oil, water temp., start/stop)
• Morse controls, new cables
• Original Pompanette fighting chair with teak footrest.
• Sunbrella cover for fighting chair
• Anchor w/line rode.
• Teak cover-boards
• Teak transom
• New Custom Awlgrip Paint
• New Texaline window coverings, exterior
• Jabsco freshwater Diaphragm pump
• 25 gal. freshwater tank with exterior fill cap.
• 3 Rule 12-volt automatic bilge pumps, new
• Jabsco electric toilet
• Raritan, Lectra-San Type I MSD

Mechanical
• 2 Cummins 6BTA5.9M3 Diesel engines
• Diamond Edition 330’s, rated at 315 bhp @ 2800 rpm.
• Walker Airsep on each engine
• Barry Control vibration isolators
• Oil Pump-out hoses
• 2 ZF IRM 220A Marine gear
• 1-¾” S.S. shafts
• Heavy duty shaft supports and cutlass bearings.
• Compression shaft logs and stuffing boxes.
• 2 Bronze propellers.
• 2 Racor Diesel fuel filter/water separators.
• Replacement aluminum 220 gal. fuel tank.

Helm
• Compass
• Fire extinguisher 2.
• Hynautic Hydraulic Steering.
• Dual Telflex-Morse controls.
• Cushion seat with storage.

1. I am concerned about the wiring and plumbing, not that it's the most costly thing to do on these boats, but with your collective experience, how much time is involved in cleaning up/re-wiring one of these boats properly? It looks to me like a/some batteries were removed from inside the cabin, and the "electrician" capped some wires to be safe.

2. I am also concerned about the comments regarding the strut backing pads. I've read through the overview on the website about replacing the pads. Is the concern mostly about pushing the pads up into the hull? Or is it about ripping through the hull outwards? Would a large backing plate between the fiberglass structure and the washers/nuts suffice? Or do you recommend glassing in a larger pad all together?

3. The V-Struts are not as clean looking as normal struts, but should I be concerned that I would need to replace them? Is there anything inherently wrong with what you see there?

4. Prop size: Carl and Tony Meola--what is the impact of running the 18x21 props currently on the boat vs 20-21 as Tony described? Could you get away with 18 with the narrower angle Carl describes?

5. Do the rudder mounts look ok from a distance?

6. Do you know what is involved in adding another set of controls? I'd like to add throttles on the interior (can steer using autopilot remote once installed, and once underway).

Thank you in advance!

dgomezhall · Post by **dgomezhall** » Feb 24th, '20, 15:29

Well,

Once again I appreciate all of the help. Feel free to continue to share insight, but I don't think this one's going to come together.

Seller is stuck on a $100k+ sale price. When I first went to go see the boat given the long list of "new" items, I thought it might be. After getting there and seeing what I've shared with you all, and clarifying what "new" means to the owner, I think he's dreaming.

Anyway, glad to be on the forum, and I hope to find something else soon!

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Feb 24th, '20, 22:34

dgomezhall wrote:Well,

Once again I appreciate all of the help. Feel free to continue to share insight, but I don't think this one's going to come together.

Seller is stuck on a $100k+ sale price. When I first went to go see the boat given the long list of "new" items, I thought it might be. After getting there and seeing what I've shared with you all, and clarifying what "new" means to the owner, I think he's dreaming.

Anyway, glad to be on the forum, and I hope to find something else soon!

Sometimes you need to throw an offer out their. Make it fair, and if he says no, just thank him and tell him that if things change to please call you. You never know. Right now he is not in a rush. When it is time to put it back in the water, and he realizes he has an expense that is just sitting, he may just change his mind.

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Feb 25th, '20, 08:29

dgomezhall wrote: I would absolutely engage an marine surveyor, and engine surveyor.

Good to hear as all you'll get here are opinions and educated guesses based on pictures

1. I am concerned about the wiring and plumbing, not that it's the most costly thing to do on these boats, but with your collective experience, how much time is involved in cleaning up/re-wiring one of these boats properly? It looks to me like a/some batteries were removed from inside the cabin, and the "electrician" capped some wires to be safe.

Problem is not only what you see, but what you do not see.

Depends on what your wiring boat for. A Few lights and switches, some simple electronics or...So could be a few hours to clean up electric if ok or many days to pull and rewire.

Dangled cables with wire nuts is not the way to make cables "safe" Think vibration, boat pounding, items falling and getting tossed around, climbing in and around compartment, reach hands in...

...its not an enclosed junction box in a stationary building.

dgomezhall wrote: 2. I am also concerned about the comments regarding the strut backing pads. I've read through the overview on the website about replacing the pads. Is the concern mostly about pushing the pads up into the hull? Or is it about ripping through the hull outwards? Would a large backing plate between the fiberglass structure and the washers/nuts suffice? Or do you recommend glassing in a larger pad all together?

Pretty Easy Fix...remove what is there, clean up the area and make up larger backing pads that get glassed into place. The larger pads spread out the load reducing hull flex in that area when underway and if a hard hit should happen the load being spread out "should" not send the strut through the bottom of boat. For detailed explanation from Captain Patrick read this and you might want to see how projects should look and go for a first class job. http://bertram31.com/proj/struts/strut_backing.htm

dgomezhall wrote: 3. The V-Struts are not as clean looking as normal struts, but should I be concerned that I would need to replace them? Is there anything inherently wrong with what you see there?

If done right V struts are inherently stronger then a single support strut. If done right...meaning just using SS is not the end all. Welding can be quite strong and durable if the correct rod was used, SS was not overheated, penetration was correct, weld was allowed to cool slow and not quenched.

If done right, no need to replace them.

BUT if you had to replace one or both...you do need to realize they are most likely not a Stock Size or Configuration. So what does that mean? Well your are not calling High Tide Marine, Buck Algonquin Foundry or going online to Deep Blue Marine to order your struts sitting on a shelf. They do not have patterns or drawing to make them.
YOUR having them Custom Made...and hopefully you have enough of the old ones left to use as a sample. (thinking hitting a submerged object or hard landing where they get mangled) If not, your having someone come down to your boat to fabricate from scratch. They could be made from SS again OR you have custom bronze castings made. To do that someone must gather all the dimensions and compound angles to make up a pattern for each strut. Then they pour the bronze Casting, machine base flat, bore for cutless bearing and drill mounting holes. When you get finally get them, expect a bit of finagling to get it all aligned. I know I charge and arm and a leg for that kind of work and hopefully your a patient person with a sizable wallet.
The other option is you do buy standard struts for our 31...but then more likely then not your motors will need to be moved a good amount as will the shaft log. Not a quick easy there.

dgomezhall wrote: 4. Prop size: Carl and Tony Meola--what is the impact of running the 18x21 props currently on the boat vs 20-21 as Tony described? Could you get away with 18 with the narrower angle Carl describes?

Yes you can run smaller props. The issue is your loosing a good deal of the advantages of diesel power.

dgomezhall wrote: 5. Do the rudder mounts look ok from a distance?

Rudders and mounts look right for the boat. Some seapage showing green, but kinda normal

dgomezhall wrote: 6. Do you know what is involved in adding another set of controls? I'd like to add throttles on the interior (can steer using autopilot remote once installed, and once underway).

Those controls are pretty straight forward to run a second station by piggy backing the cables to the new controls

A good hull with good motors looks to be there. Cosmetically the boat looks to be in good shape with some nice fiberglass and interior work.

I have two issues.

-At that asking price I'd expect a turn key boat...not a project boat.

-I cannot tell if the person or persons doing the work lacked the finesse to fine tune the projects OR cut corners.

Amberjack · Post by **Amberjack** » Feb 25th, '20, 14:56

I don't think this one's going to come together.

Good call. At this price you should be able to walk down the dock turn the key and go for a run, not spend months and $$$ cleaning up half finished or poorly done work. The engines looked awfully "dry" to me, as though they hadn't been run for a long time, more like a couple years than last fall.

bakerjw · Post by **bakerjw** » Feb 25th, '20, 18:20

I am no expert but I appreciate those here that are.

Donmystic1 · Post by **Donmystic1** » Feb 26th, '20, 15:12

The props nuts on one shaft are on wrong. Should be small nut then large nut then cotter pin.
Picky picky

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Feb 26th, '20, 21:01

Donmystic1 wrote:The props nuts on one shaft are on wrong. Should be small nut then large nut then cotter pin.
Picky picky

Believe it or not, I have seen some yards do that. The yard guys just don't know any better.

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Feb 27th, '20, 07:49

Tony Meola wrote: Believe it or not, I have seen some yards do that. The yard guys just don't know any better.

Don't know any better or just tired of hearing customers complain that you put the nuts on wrong.

Its one of those things when you do it right...people/your customers say its wrong. Customer is always right.

Nuts have 2 knocks on this.

- First as pointed out the thinner Jam Nut goes on first as the threads deform holding it in place before the larger nut goes on.

-Second the threads on a boat shaft are supposed to be an interference fit. Meaning the nuts do not spin on easily but go on with resistance...larger ones will only go on with a wrench. BUT when we do that the shafts comes back or the nuts come back as they "are not right". My dad has shown customers the spec and how the correct Precision Thread Gauges fit properly...but when done, they just want the nut to freely spin on up to the prop hub. By the time I came on board, it was our common practice to machine so the nut went on easily for all recreational boats. Commercial boats that are to be checked by Coast Guard we make to spec...snug.

In reality...when prop is properly fit to the shaft, its the mating tapers that transmitting the power. The key and nuts are just added security.

What looks right...
hmmm, I have a new post to get started.

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Feb 27th, '20, 22:42

Carl

When I walk the yard that my boat spends the winter at, I always look to see who put them on right. Since the yard probably puts on and takes the props off of 99% of the boats in the yard (people are getting lazy and the yards do a lot of the work now)
I have a hard time finding a boat that has them on wrong.

Amberjack · Post by **Amberjack** » Feb 28th, '20, 13:28

Diego--I reached out to a couple Bertram owner friends, one of whom was familiar with the B31 Wheezie you looked at. He said the boat has been sitting on a trailer for several years and when he looked at it he was not impressed with the hull paint work or apparently much else about the boat. He also mentioned a local Seattle boat Poco Mas is for sale in a private sale. When I knew the boat it was a very clean and original gas powered FBC moored near me then it disappeared for a few years. Apparently sold, it went to a yard for a diesel repower, new paint and an interior upgrade. The current owner does not want to be contacted so it is for sale through the yard. When Dave sends the information I'll PM it to you if you want to take a look, I don't need to be involved. Could be a sweet boat, good original condition, new upgrades, new diesels--the only question of course is the price.

Dug · Post by **Dug** » Mar 1st, '20, 13:16

You would be much better off buying this and transporting it to you. You will spend much less... https://www.bsbw.com/Pre-owned-Inventor ... 4?ref=list

dgomezhall · Post by **dgomezhall** » Mar 2nd, '20, 01:30

Amberjack, thanks for the tip, I’ll look forward to hearing more!

Doug, that is a beautiful boat with some great detail. Thanks for sending that through.

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Mar 2nd, '20, 21:02

Dug

They did a nice job on the updates. Left some alone and updated where it made functional sense. I would change the fuel shut offs but other wise nice job, plus 250 Cummins engines perfect for the 31.

PeterPalmieri · Post by **PeterPalmieri** » Mar 3rd, '20, 13:19

Dug wrote:You would be much better off buying this and transporting it to you. You will spend much less... https://www.bsbw.com/Pre-owned-Inventor ... 4?ref=list

Of all the FBCs for sale, that is the best of the bunch

Mark · Post by **Mark** » Mar 3rd, '20, 14:27

PeterPalmieri wrote:Of all the FBCs for sale, that is the best of the bunch

It is definitely nice. I guess it depends on how much you want to spend and your motor preference. There a few in the 110 to 140 that are close or similar. A couple of really nice ones at 175-225 and then there is this https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/2013/b ... h-3610327/...its only money! (I wish I had some!!)

For all the guys that went to the link that Dug posted, what can you tell about the windows/windshield. Look like the were replaced by not sure. No mention of it in the details of the listing.

The difference between the 250 and 270 is the fuel pump right? Is there any practical reason to upgrade to get 270hp?

Thanks.
Mark

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » Mar 3rd, '20, 15:06

Beautiful indeed. But 400K?

The interior reminds me of the Blackfin 29.

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Mar 3rd, '20, 23:03

Mark

I was wondering what happened to that boat. When I went past were she used to be slipped last summer she was not around. Looks like they moved over to a yard for brokerage sale. She used to sit behind a house just past the Mantoloking bridge. The House has to be worth a couple of mil. No wonder he wants that much for the boat. Never going to get it, but she is a head turner.

PeterPalmieri · Post by **PeterPalmieri** » Mar 4th, '20, 09:30

Mark wrote:It is definitely nice. I guess it depends on how much you want to spend and your motor preference. There a few in the 110 to 140 that are close or similar. A couple of really nice ones at 175-225 and then there is this https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/2013/b ... h-3610327/...its only money! (I wish I had some!!)

For all the guys that went to the link that Dug posted, what can you tell about the windows/windshield. Look like the were replaced by not sure. No mention of it in the details of the listing.

The difference between the 250 and 270 is the fuel pump right? Is there any practical reason to upgrade to get 270hp?

Thanks.
Mark

I should have said relative value, that's a nice boat. But I think for $395,000 I can customize a boat to exactly what I want. The one Dug posted has all the essentials and expensive work complete for a reasonable price.

Chanse · Post by **Chanse** » Mar 6th, '20, 00:14

You sure shes a 31'?

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Mar 6th, '20, 00:16

What makes you think she isn't.

Chanse · Post by **Chanse** » Mar 6th, '20, 00:21

Look closely........... look again!

Captain Decent · Post by **Captain Decent** » Mar 6th, '20, 01:07

The Seattle area boat market is stupid. I picked up a FBC from Maryland last spring because of better inventory and prices.

Where is this boat?

From the pictures it generally looks pretty well appointed. The price seems totally in line with the local market but most of the guys on this board are from the cheap coast. These boats are a terrible value. They are great boats. They are the prettiest boat of their kind hands down. But you are paying the premium because it’s a B31.

$100k over here is only going to get you a “good” boat unfortunately and I would be prepared to fix a lot of little stuff that is done wrong in the eyes of the beholder. Little things like wire nuts can be indications of a general incompetence in rigging but in the event that it’s an anomaly maybe it’s just a small Inconvenience to fix. If it’s indicative of their general quality control then you may have a disaster on your hands. If it checks out find the best surveyor you can to pick it apart.

If you want another set of eyes on it, let me know, I wouldn’t mind taking a look at it as I am local.

Tail Chaser · Post by **Tail Chaser** » Mar 6th, '20, 07:05

Chanse · Post by **Chanse** » Mar 6th, '20, 12:01

The pic I posted of HUNTRESS is not 31' but amazingly 21" .

Dug · Post by **Dug** » Mar 9th, '20, 09:18

Chanse, HAHAHA!!!

As for Wahine, she has not has haddow replacement that I know of. She is owned by Skip Helme who owns Brewer St. Boatworks. He and his crew did all the work on my restoration of my Alchemy, along with many others. He has rarely spared anything to keep her well maintained. He does not really want her gone as he's owned her for more than 20 years. Life changes...

She's s good as you are going to get, esp for that money. Give Skip a call. He's a good man.

Dug