Properller shaft couplings

[pschauss]

I am trying to remove my propeller shafts from the transmission coupling so that I can replace the stuffing boxes and their hoses. At least on the port side, the set screws came out easily. Contrary to my previous post the heads on the bolts are square with a size that seems to fall between 3/8" and 7/16". Does anyone have a suggestion how I can immobilize the coupling so that I can apply sufficient torque to the coupling nuts to get them off?

Thanks,

[Tony Meola]

Peter

Since the coupling is still attached to the shaft, you will have to lock the shaft down. Try taking some tape and put it around the shaft so you will not chew it up. Then take a Pipe/Monkey Wrench and put it on the shaft so that the handle is against the hull so that it bites into the shaft and keeps it from spinning on you.

Another way to help hold it is if you can at least one out, take a board and drill a hole in it, stand it up so the bottom is against the hull and insert a bolt in the hole you drilled and then the bolt goes through the flange bolt hole so that you now have stopped the shaft from spinning.

[Carl]

Two wrenches, one on the front, the other on the back. Turn coupler so the back wrench wedges against the hull, a piece of wood or...

If for some reason you can't get a back wrench on...use the prop to hold. A board between blade and hull will hold...although a pain if you move shaft a bit it can fall, needs to be re-positioned.

[pschauss]

Thanks for the suggestions. I use three wrenches, one on the front, one on the back, and a third as a lever between the other two. So far I have gotten off the four bolts on the port side and one on the starboard side before I had to stop for the day.

[Carl]

Spray them up with penetrating oil...Bolt buster is not a bad product. Just have to let it sit.

Also a good deadblow hammer or heavy soft hammer works very well at breaking stubborn bolts free. JUST make sure the wrench is fully seated and you hit it squarely.

[mike ohlstein]

Another Prince of Potions concoction is a penetrant. 50/50 mix of lacquer thinner and ATF. Let it sit for a day. CX also works very well.

[pschauss]

The bolts on the port engine coupling were not corroded. The challenge there was getting enough leverage in the space between the shaft and the deck. There isn't enough room to get a socket on the nut so I could not use a breaker bar.

The starboard side has some serious rust because that stuffing box was leaking. I've been soaking those bolts in Kroil for a couple of days. The trick with the third wrench worked on the first bolt that I tried so I have every reason to believe that it will work on others when I get back to them.

The set screws on that side have not budged so far. I have them soaking in Kroil also and am hoping that they will not break when I apply serious force to them. The head on these are square, drilled for safety wires. Does anyone know what size wrench they are supposed to be? They don't match any of my SAE size wrenches, but a 10mm wrench fits with a bit for force.

I put a bit of soapy water on the shaft in front of the cutlass bearing for the port shaft and was able to slide the shaft aft a bit. I will have to polish it up a bit to get the barnacle scars off before I pull it back any further.

[Carl]

Those screw head bolts are notorious for seizing and breaking off when forced.
They do not give like regular bolts as they are hardened...so they seem solid as you apply more and more pressure, then it twists in two. Being hardened and in a great spot drilling them out is a bear.

Keep spraying them...


Often they are cup point, 3/8 square head set screws for 1-1/4ish - 1-3/4ish couplers.
With 3/8 head. If an overseas trans and coupling...could be metric too.
Not a real standard, but more what the manufacturers uses.

[Amberjack]

Something that has worked well for me with seized bolts is to heat them, then spray with penetrating oil, let cool and repeat the process. In this space I would use a hairdryer or heat gun rather than a torch.

[Carl]

Good idea on the hairdryer/heatgun.
I was reluctant to mention as I usually use a small propane torch to hear the bolt or nut here in the shop and not a great choice in a confined area of a fiberglass boat.
Stubborn bolts brought to me with some time before they are needed back. I clean up what I can of the threads and try to get them to more. If not budging its a shot of Bolt buster or similar penetrating oil and let sit. Lunch or end of day a little more juice and I'll tap it a bit with a lil hammer. Next day give it a try...no go its heat the bolt/nut, let cool, spray it up again...few light taps. Then continue for a couple days. Fairly often on day I get a bit of motion and I try to work it,,,,if not getting better with each lil back and forth...I go for the middle, spray it up, let it cool, spray it up...tap and I'll see it again the next day. Penetrating oil works...but can take time to get in and move back the hands of time and corrosion.
Does heat work- definitely.
Does tapping work...I have no idea I found it on one of the cans "tips". As it takes no time or effort, I toss it in.

Its nice when at the end of a week or two you just unbolt nice and easy.

[pschauss]

Carl,

Thanks for the encouragement. I’ve been soaking the set screws in Kroil. I picked up some PBblaster which I will try this week.

I have all of the bolts and set screws on the port shaft out so I will do that stuffing box first while I wait for the starboard side to free up.

[Carl]

Peter, right now time is on your side so use it to your advantage.

Absolute worst case scenario is you have to cut the coupler off...a new clamp fit coupling is in the $80 range.
Just saying don't stress over it.

AND don't let anyone talk you into cutting the shaft end off instead of removing the coupler, shafts are pricey.


That said...give it some time for the stuff to work it magic.

[pschauss]

Carl,

I have until at least the end of March so I'll keep up with the penetrating oil. I am also planning to replace my exhaust hoses so I can do those first. Hopefully I won't run into any roadblocks there.

I saw the clamp couplings in the Buck Algonquin catalog. If I use one of those, is there any machining which has to be done to match it to my shaft and/or the coupling to which it mates on the transmission?

Thanks,

[Rawleigh]

I have had luck on other bolts with tapping them with a hammer while holding force on them with a wrench. Manifold bolts are notorious Mayhew makes a tool that goes in an air hammer to rattle the nut while you turn it with a wrench. The socket goes on the end of the air hammer tool and the tool has a hex on it to turn while air hammering. If you have room and air this would be perfect.

https://www.toolsource.com/air-chisels- ... 48799.html

If you don't have room, just have someone reach in with a hammer and tap on the side of the wrench while you pull on it.

[pschauss]

Looking at the Buck Algonquin catalog I discovered that they make a puller for a four bolt flange. I ordered one from Deep Blue Yacht Supply. I will let you know how it works out.

[Carl]

Carl,
I saw the clamp couplings in the Buck Algonquin catalog. If I use one of those, is there any machining which has to be done to match it to my shaft and/or the coupling to which it mates on the transmission?

Thanks,

Couplings are bought to match transmission and shaft size. Usually all that needs to be done to coupler is debur around key and where it was slit with a file.

The end of the shaft it what gets turned down a bit to fit the coupling. It can be turned in a lathe or what I do...use a portable belt sander. Shafts put on rollers and spun as I bring in sanding belt.

I am partial to Walters Machine split couplers.

[pschauss]

The flange puller from Buck Algonquin (part #50MCP00500) worked as expected, considerably better than the harmonic balancer puller that I was using. The four slots matched the bolt holes in the flange and were wide enough so that I could use the bolts that had been holding the two halves of the coupler together. The only problem that I ran into was that the threaded push rod was about half and inch too short to take the flange all of the way off. I had to throw in two nuts for spacers.

When I slide the new hoses over the end of the shaft log, do I need to use any special sealant? How much should I tighten the hose clams?

[Carl]

Best thing about the classic tried and true stuffing boxes...they are very forgiving.

Clean up the section the hose fits on, slide hose on...no sealant needed. Tighten clamp, you can tell the difference of the easy cranking as clamp snugs up on hose, compresses hose, then kinda gets tight as it snugs on the gland, I go about a 1/4 turn or so beyond snug.
If by some chance it leaks...snug up some more, heavy wall bronze gland will not get hurt and you will be using good quality ALL SS clamps...preferably Grade 316 SS. T-Bolt clamps are a good idea...but you'll be double clamping each point and that hose is pretty tough...so not always a must.

No matter what and how it goes together, this is a "must check" each time you get to the boat, after you have run boat, before you leave boat for the "first few" trips. Gland warms up some, vibration moves and giggles stuff around, it may ease the clamping pressure some. Not a big deal if you see a drip where there should not be one...just snug them back up. Same goes for packing...new packing wears in a bit and often needs a little tweak after the first couple runs.

Before you go "Oh man, I don't need this extra aggravation I should have gone dripless"...chances are very good after one or two tweaks your done. Yes, you'll check them from time to time as its just what we do as good boat owners, but once set its pretty much "set it and forget it" easy.

[pschauss]

Stuffing boxes were already on my "must check" list after a friend of my son had his Carver sink in its slip. That's how I ended up with this winter project.

The key was in the slot on the coupling when it finally came off of the shaft. It looks like it is brass and seems to be in good shape, not distorted. I have cleaned it up a bit with a wire brush. When I reassemble, should I start with the key in the slot on the shaft or in the coupling? It is a tight fit in the coupling but looks like it will go all the way to the bottom of the slot with some persuasion. I have not checked to see how it fits in the shaft.

[Carl]

There is no right or wrong way, all that counts is it is assembled correctly at the end.

Me...I bring out the file and clean up the keyway in both the shaft and coupling so key slides with some resistance. Sometimes that means taking a little off the key itself.

When coupling is fitted it can be adjusted a bit on the shaft.
What I do is slide my clamp fit coupling wedged open with screwdrivers onto the shaft, then tap the key into the keyway. adjust coupling location on shaft, remove wedges, install clamp bolts and snug, install set screw and bolt couplings together.


Yes you can put key in shaft and slide coupling over...only issue is the key may push ahead too far and start going up the ramp at the end of the keyway...then has everything binding up, have to knock keyway back in...key gets buggered up and hard to get out next time. Key in coupling is fine too if you can keep it all together as you install.

6 of 1 and a 1/2 dozen of the other...makes no difference to the end result.

[pschauss]

Unless I have missed something, it looks like my prop shaft coupling was an interference fit. The coupling binds when I try to fit it to the shaft, even without the key in place. I spent about an hour trying to "persuade" it to go on and only got it about 1/2" on to the end of the shaft. Unless I have missed something, I am thinking that I will take the shaft to a machine shop and have split coupler fitted?

Is it possible that I have missed something?

Can anyone recommend a shop on Long Island for that task, preferably Western Suffolk, south shore?

Thanks,

[Craig Mac]

I would recommend Bossler & Sweezey in Bellport.

https://www.bosslerandsweezey.com/

[Carl]

That’s the point I was making...or trying to make.

They are an interference fit to heat and beat Or you “fit” them.


On your own, it’s not easy but possible...way too much elbow grease.

Machine shop is the right idea
B& S does great work or take a ride out to me

[Carl]

Laurance Johnson machine & prop also good and closer to you I think...but then you won’t get to meet me

[pschauss]

Carl,

Thanks. I'll touch base to set up a time to come over as soon as I can get the prop shaft out of the boat. It might be a while because the yard just finished shrink wrapping. I requested that they put a door in the shrink wrap but they don't usually get to that part until January.

I'm going to have to remove the prop and, probably, dig a trench behind the boat so that I have enough room to get the shaft out. What's the best type of puller to use for the prop?

[Carl]

I am quite familiar with having to dig a hole to remove the shaft. It's a pain...but better then the year I knew I was pulling shafts and asked to be put in the gravel or blocked high enough to remove them. They put me on asphalt then charged me to re block higher...but had to wait till the following season to get Machine in....I Was Pissed. Although after that I stopped doing "favors" for the yard and charged. Worked out better for me in the long run.

I am partial to Walters Prop pullers.

[pschauss]

I pulled the shrink wrap off today, so now I have the coupler sitting on my desk. I am trying to match its dimensions with the chart for the Walter clamp fit coupling
(http://www.waltergear.com/SPLIT-PSC-Chart14.pdf). The closest match to mine is part # 5A with the following exceptions:

- my total length is 2 1/2"; theirs is 3 5/16"
- my hub diameter is 3 1/16"; theirs is 2 1/2".

Does this sound like the right part? My shafts are 1 3/8'.

Where is the best place to order these from?

I am still working on the set screws for the coupler on my starboard shaft. If I have to resort to brute force, what is the best way to cut the coupler without damaging the shaft?

Thanks,