Too quiet on the board...so heres some updates with pics

[Carl]

Moving along on the project I was able to start laying out the exhaust.

As I mentioned earlier on- - it's 3-1/2" from the turbo and I need to go 5".
I could not find a transition for those sizes so I got to play fiberglass man.

Here we are making the transition piece. Polyester resin done over a bag fit over two diameters got me pretty close.
I used chopped mat in small overlapping pieces so it would lay down easy. Cloth needed to be worked more and bag holding the shape moved.
https://imgur.com/e0Twbly


A little grinding and sanding we got it to a nice fit, then just a bit more so we had good surfaces to glass.
https://imgur.com/dCk89xG

Its a thing of beauty in my eyes...been a long time since I glassed anything aside from a couple tabs here and there. Also think the last time I used polyester was on the car repairing a little mishap. The autobody place wanted like 2 grand to redo the fenderwell and area by lights. I glassed and got it perfect so they just had to prime and paint. Short pot life with polyester and the smell...not pleasant.
Anyway- first one's done, this is the port. Starboard I made up the parts...but think it will need some angle to it, so I'm waiting to finish glassing shaft logs to assemble that exhaust fitting.

https://imgur.com/lI2Dcnq


Here's a picture of the final fit after welding the strut on starboard side. Lines up great, laid the shaft log in place and clearance with the intake JUST clears the Dripless. The Shaft Tube is mocked up pretty much in the right location...maybe just a hair more forward.

https://imgur.com/UYmK0LU


Strut backing Pads are in...need to get down and tweak motors for and aft a hair, bolt down install shafts and then move onto exhaust. Mostly done in my head...but needs to be all laid out to get started. Oops...not exhaust next its glass in the Shaft Tubes.

Have one shaft done...just need to get the 2nd in and keyed...can't key till I get the overall measurement AFTER I tweak motors placement, oh how one thing holds up another.

https://imgur.com/XgXvw24


Going back a bit I did have an issue with getting transom flanges. I can't go straight as it interferes with steering and deck so the search was on for angled 5". Special order through Buck in SS only, polished too. When they arrive there are straight, put a call in, long story short, nope they have pictures of them in 5" angled...but they do not make'm that way.
So to the saw we went, then a grind and weld Walla 15 degree transom flanges

https://i.imgur.com/k63JAIn.jpg


What else have we done...Ah gauge panel.
The old fiberglass one just was not going to fit the new gauges, idiot lights and now I have KEYS for the ignition. I never had keys...it was a pair of pull switches to engage the ignition then the starter button to fire'm up.

So I laid them out best I could within the constraints of the dash, added a bit of rounded belly to it to soften the look, keep it from looking like a square box lid, made up a program and got to cutting the top panel out.

https://imgur.com/6VJo4xT

A couple side pieces angled to mimic the height of the old panel and gave a nice weld and grind.
https://imgur.com/JT9mQIn

Then it was off to the Powder Coater...glad we did him alot of favors as I needed it sooner then fast so mechanic could get electrical all done, tested and tidied up before he was off to become Florida s latest permanent snowbird.


https://imgur.com/XaS0Aj8


...and that is were we are on September 15th.
Still hoping to splash by the end of the season for one trial run...maybe two.

It would make winter go a bit easier....

[PeterPalmieri]

that all looks pretty awesome!

[ktm_2000]

looks good Carl

when I gripe about sanding fiberglass for my project I look at what you are doing and say to myself, "bring on more sanding" because from the descriptions and pics, the work you are doing is way more complicated and precise than anything I am trying to accomplish.

[DanielM]

Congratulations on all the progress. It looks great.

[Tony Meola]

Carl

Nice work. That is some nice glass work.

Maybe you are missing your calling and you should start restoring boats.

[Mark]

Tony - That’s a great suggestion.

Carl - Really nice work both fiberglass and machining. To Tony’s suggestion, I know where I can find a boat with motors but rest is a restore. Think you can get it done in 6 months. LOL. Striper season is getting close. Looks like you are too!!

Mark

[Pete Fallon]

Carl,
Nice work, I was able to get 3-1/2'' to 5" FRP couplers from Merritt Marine back in 1996 when I started my re-power. I went gas big blocks and used 5" blue silicon hose and 5" FRP pipe with Vernay12" long by 10" wide flat FRP mufflers under the cockpit sole to 5" SS flanges with rubber flaps at transom, zero back pressure. Are you sure you don't need the 4 old style 2 piece engine box covers, they are all cored and Imron Oyster white no hinges, they are free.
What angle did you end up with on the shafts at the struts? Keep up with the good work you will splash this year.
Pete Fallon

[Jhaszard]

Awesome work Carl. Going to be a great boat.

[Jhaszard]

Carl
I have all rebuilt on the Cessna 180. Just have to assemble. The PA-12 Super Cruiser is in covering stage. Just a lot of wet sanding and many coats of dope. May have to wait till Spring to finish all the work on the fuselage due to the temperature. Got to get something going so I can take Rawleigh flying. Also, just got a shipment of Chipmunk parts from the UK.

[Carl]

Carl
I have all rebuilt on the Cessna 180. Just have to assemble. The PA-12 Super Cruiser is in covering stage. Just a lot of wet sanding and many coats of dope. May have to wait till Spring to finish all the work on the fuselage due to the temperature. Got to get something going so I can take Rawleigh flying. Also, just got a shipment of Chipmunk parts from the UK.

...just have to assemble.
Maybe a "just" for you, but sounds like a daunting task to me...especially if your one of those people who finish up with a couple extra these and those parts. like me.

Also, just got a shipment of Chipmunk parts from the UK.

This part you might want to explain. I have feeling your not talking about the parts that are coming to my mind.
...and if it is, maybe we would all be better off if you didn't explain.

[Carl]

Carl,
Nice work, I was able to get 3-1/2'' to 5" FRP couplers from Merritt Marine back in 1996 when I started my re-power. I went gas big blocks and used 5" blue silicon hose and 5" FRP pipe with Vernay12" long by 10" wide flat FRP mufflers under the cockpit sole to 5" SS flanges with rubber flaps at transom, zero back pressure. Are you sure you don't need the 4 old style 2 piece engine box covers, they are all cored and Imron Oyster white no hinges, they are free.
What angle did you end up with on the shafts at the struts? Keep up with the good work you will splash this year.
Pete Fallon

I looked and called Centek...they could make...but so could I and at a lot, lot less. I already had materials, a 3-1/2" 45 degree FRP elbow that I was cutting a chunk off of. I also have plenty of 5" FRP. I bought for surge tubes, only needed a 6' piece, but 10' from my distributor cost less with free delivery.
So its 3-1/2" silicon hose from turbo elbow down to the 45 deg FRB elbow, then another short 3-1/2" silicone hose to the transition Coupler bringing me up to 5". Then its 5" hose into the surge. From the surge I go 5" hose to the 5" Centek muffler...Big Boys, they are coming in at 11" in diameter. I believe if I bring them up forward enough they will fit with no modifications...my deck is low compared to later years...but you know that I'm sure. Then a straight shot of 5" hose t the transom flanges.

The covers are much lighter? Maybe it would not be a bad idea. I wish the boxs could be made lighter...they are going to need sound insulation and going to get real heavy again. But that next year...this year I'll be happy to hear them singing.


Shaft angle- - I am now at 11 degrees with a good 20% tip clearance to bottom with the 20" wheels I plan to run.

Its a big jump up from the 15" wheels I used to have...although I changed transmission reduction some years back and squeezed on a set of 17" wheels...a bit noisy with 1 finger clearance between tip and bottom. When I started using boat more I changed them out to 16" wheels..still a bit too tight.

[Pete Fallon]

Carl,
I will weigh each hatch cover to see how much different the weight is compared to yours. When I first got my boat in 1978 I was running 16'X11 wheels horrible fuel burn after the re-power in 1997 I was able to run 17"x19's or even 18"x18 I had both I found the 17"x19 worked the best. My fuel burn was cut in half and speed went from 31MPH to 41.8 MPH. I was using 8 degree Hurth down angle 1:5:1 trannies with the low profile strut set up that came with the boat.
Pete

[thuddddddd]

Pete/Carl.. if you need stuff hauled from Mass to Jersey, let me know .. I'm making the trip with the truck waaaaaay to often

[Carl]

Pete/Carl.. if you need stuff hauled from Mass to Jersey, let me know .. I'm making the trip with the truck waaaaaay to often

I appreciate that Timmy. Your still making that trip? I thought the boat would have made its way north by now.
My boats in between work and home and I still can't get down there to work on it. I can't imagine traveling several States to do that.

[Carl]

Carl,
I was able to run 17"x19's or even 18"x18 I had both I found the 17"x19 worked the best. My fuel burn was cut in half and speed went from 31MPH to 41.8 MPH. I was using 8 degree Hurth down angle 1:5:1 trannies with the low profile strut set up that came with the boat.
Pete

My old strut setup would not physically allow me to install an 18" wheel. Base to center of bore is 8-5/8", thats 17-1/4" dia. and touching hull. Well maybe a little more as shafts has wheel sitting out a bit. Did you shim the struts on your boat to get 18" wheels to fit?

I had on 17", but 16" performed better and alot quieter and smoother even though the 17" were 4 blade and 16's 3 blade. It was part of the use what you got program, just like the 20 x 20 4 blades I plan to start out using. I'd have preffered 3 blade...but when 4's are sitting there.


I have ZF 63A's with 8deg down angle. I wanted to keep shaft angle low, Bob warned about tilting motors past 3deg being a problem...still not really sure why, They install using V-drives with motors kicked up to 12 degrees...but I'll err on safer then sorry. 11 deg it is.
Could have gone down to 10 degrees...but the drawback of lowering motors is they get closer to the waterline and that raises the issue of water backing up to the motors more easily.

Pete, If I did not go with the 6Bt's I think I might have gone with your setup. My issue with staying gas is in my eyes the boats value stays the same. I'm dumping the same amount of coin going diesel...but now I think the boats value will at least go up a tad. Might even cover my costs. Or might not. Not overly important...but makes it easier for me to rationalize dumping money int a 57 year old boat. 57 years old...kinda crazy these boats are still around and still somewhat relevant.

[Pete Fallon]

Carl,
I weighed the old style hatch covers that I redid with AirEx coring, here are the numbers the small hatch that goes over the front section of the box is 13 pounds, the large hatch that goes over the rear of the box was 19 pounds. I used an old fish scale that might be off a pound or two. They have a few scratches that will most likely come off with some acetone. They are free to you, I am moving to a different apartment that doesn't have a storage area in the basement, maybe we can work something out with Timmy to get them to you.
Pete Fallon

[Carl]

Thanks Pete.
Let me check the weight on mine and see if its worth the hassle of your shipping or asking Timmy to go out of his way.
Mine are just thin solid glass...I don't recall them being weighty without the sound insulation. But then again I'm often wrong.
In either case, thanks you Pete.

[Pete Fallon]

Carl.
I found a better scale, a digital luggage scale. Here are the results, large aft engine box covers both are 18.5 pounds,1 small forward hatch cover 15.1 pounds the other is 13. 5 pounds, must have used a little more Fairing compound on one of them. Anyway, I can meet Timmy somewhere along RT 95 or RT495 depending which way he goes.
Pete Fallon

[Carl]

Pete,

The weight of my hatches are pretty much the same. Also not the best scale I used buta good ballpark. I'd hate to see you guys go out of your way and me not use the parts. Of course now somehow one hatch will go missing or I'll trip and fall dropping the hatch overboard...but if I take, I know they will sit in my basement at the shop with all the extra 440 gas motor parts, extra motor and....that me and my dad accrued over the years.

Thant you Pete, but I am going to pass on the hatches.

[Pete Fallon]

Carl,
Okay, No problem I understand. If anyone else needs the old style hatch covers let me know, they are going in the dumpster if no one wants them.
Pete Fallon

[Seapalm]

Pete, are the hatches in FL or Mass?
Thanks!

[Pete Fallon]

sea palm,
They are in Peabody, Ma. 16 miles north of Boston off of Rt 95.
Pete Fallon