Side window replacement

PeterPalmieri · Post by **PeterPalmieri** » Jul 16th, '19, 20:28

Looking for a recommendation for someone on Long Island who can make and install replacement side windows in my existing frames. Had a bit of a docking incident over the weekend and cracked the windows. Thinking of doing them in Lexan, need a fairly quick replacement as the shattered glass is still in place but wouldn’t last a pounding in the ocean.

Looked into fiberglass frames with Rob from Raybo, some beautiful options but the window fabricators are quite expensive and requires removal of the frames for templates and then custom fabrication. Big bucks and a bunch of time out of service.

Looking for a recommendation of a local guy, Babylon NY 11702

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Jul 16th, '19, 21:56

cannot remember the name of the glass shop but it is on the west side of route 112 south of route 27 in patchogue . he has the tinted lexan or plexiglass.

John F. · Post by **John F.** » Jul 16th, '19, 22:30

As I remember, Doug, the PO of Crows Nest had a side window break. He cut a replacement out of thin Home Depot plexiglass or whatever it is they sell. It was thin enough that you could flex it to get it into the frame. Otherwise, you have to take the frame out. If it were me, I'd do what Doug did. Cheap and easy and it worked.

PeterPalmieri · Post by **PeterPalmieri** » Jul 17th, '19, 05:53

I’ve come across, but have no knowledge of

Island wide plastics in Bayport.

Marine Plastic innovations in west Babylon.

Any reason to stay away from either of these?

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Jul 17th, '19, 06:26

I went 1/4" Polycarbonite (Lexan is tradename).

Plexiglass is the tradename for acrylic...I was told to stay away fro that as it breaks in shards.

1/4" is what I have in mine. I used the old window as template but still needed to trim the top and bottom a bit. It can easily be bent to the inside of the track, but the angle of the material does not let it go into the track. I used a belt sander to tweak.

I also made the window a bit longer to overlap some. When I made my first it was a little too flexible, slid too easy and found longer with some overlapping was better.

If you are thinking of going limo tint....don't ask for extra black or darker black its all light tint.
The real dark limo stuff is called "Dark Gray"???

I am sure I could send you to a few places that might be cheaper Emco Plastics, Curbell Plastics or Thyssen Krupp...but shipping is gonna kill you on a small order.
Sometimes local is best.

I have had frames and glass on my to do list since before I had diesels on the list.
Price and time to install always had me looking at them going...they are not Sooo Bad.

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Jul 17th, '19, 07:58

marine plastic inovation in west Babylon is quite a place actually the only people i know that can weld starboard (quite a interesting concept) however they are expensive for just a replacement go with Carls idea, incidently what window is it port or starboard . i asked because starboard can not be replaced without removing window on FBC because interior head wall is up against the window.there is a trick for port side side.

pschauss · Post by **pschauss** » Jul 17th, '19, 08:11

Bob,

What's the trick to replacing the port side window? The one on my boat has several cracks in it.

PeterPalmieri · Post by **PeterPalmieri** » Jul 17th, '19, 08:58

bob lico wrote:marine plastic inovation in west Babylon is quite a place actually the only people i know that can weld starboard (quite a interesting concept) however they are expensive for just a replacement go with Carls idea, incidently what window is it port or starboard . i asked because starboard can not be replaced without removing window on FBC because interior head wall is up against the window.there is a trick for port side side.

It is of course the starboard side window.

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Jul 17th, '19, 09:01

the front bottom of the window has a small hand made alluminum triangle with four tiny screws from the inside. remove the screws then triangle. the bottom track has a fuzzy covering # 6 self taping SS screws .remove screws but beforehand these flathead screws should be covered in PB-Blaster or Kroll the day before.insert 24 tooth hacksaw blade or Fein tool and brake the bottom seal then pull the BOTTOM of frame inward,slide out broken glass and use as template for new safety glass.reinsert glass and reassemble.

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Jul 17th, '19, 09:02

PETER----ouch!!!

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » Jul 17th, '19, 09:25

Before you panic, I can remind you that a couple of years back I had an anchor go through my rear stbd window and while everyone here said that it would be impossible to replace without taking the frame out, the new hardened glass window was replaced without touching the frame and is actually the only one, from all windows, that doesn't leak...

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Jul 17th, '19, 10:04

As I went all Polycarbonite I found an easy was to remove the windows....even the starboard ones.

The process is a bit intricate in nature and takes a few tries to get in tune with just how to achieve success.
But once you got it figured out, it's a real snap.

First safety glasses, long shirt, pants and gloves wouldn't be a bad idea.
Now grab a hammer and give a good whack. Funny how glass can seem so delicate till hitting with a hammer.
It took a few shots before anything happened.
Then soon as it did, it was easy- smash it up good enough to remove, but not so bad that it comes apart where you cannot use as a template or have glass pieces falling off.

PeterPalmieri · Post by **PeterPalmieri** » Jul 17th, '19, 10:57

Bob, I had kept a flyer for years for Island wide plastics from boat shows, he doesn't have any internet presence. Turns out they work out of the old Stein's marina on River rd. in Sayville , he can do the template and install the replacements, one of my front windows are cracked as well, from last year. His name is Tim and seems to be a pretty nice guy. They do charge $125 for the hour to do an estimate if I don't bring the boat to him (no big deal).

Both local folks I contacted said they recommend using plexiglass not lexan because of superior UV and scratch resistence. Any reason I should insist on Lexan, I know I've heard plexi can break into shards...Any thoughts?

Some additional information for future reference:

I also contacted Marine Plastic Innovations west babylon, they wanted me to bring them the window to create a template and I'd have to install myself.

Raybo contacted boat window frames and for fiberglass side window frames with glass the cost was going to be approx $6k, windows need to be removed, templated or sent to them. They also offer a complete fiberglass set didn't inquire about the price.

I also contacted hightide marine and they offer a full fiberglass frame no glass for $12,500 and a build time of 6-8 weeks. It's not templated but a mold off a boat they have done.

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Jul 17th, '19, 11:51

Lexan(polycarbonite) even with the UV protection does not hold up to the sun as well as acrylic.
It is also not as clear nor does it have the same scratch protection.

I got about 10 years out of mine before they got hazy. My daughter spend a couple hours with some plastic polish to get them back to Pretty Good last year.
The good part is just pop' m out, copy and replace.

When talking to supplier about the acrylic, make sure you can cold bend the material enough to get it into the track.
If not you will need to shorten the window to get it in and then you need a spacer to take up some of the space on the bottom to keep top in place.

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Jul 17th, '19, 12:13

the Starbord Window; here is the problem two bulkheads up against the widow.this is going to be long DIY and there are opyions

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Jul 17th, '19, 12:15

and the main bulkhead is also a factor.

Raybo Marine NY · Post by **Raybo Marine NY** » Jul 17th, '19, 15:51

marine plastics is closed he is semi retired they are no longer in the building.

Steve takes small items on and has you drop them off at his brothers unrelated to the plastics business shop in the same area as their old shop

there is no cheap window replacement its all expensive and takes time and effort. frameless set ups take custom work and dedication to the project ( cabin upgrades/paint , exterior paint , etc )

BTW the complete fiberglass window set from lookout was $17500, that is why I didnt mention it to you

pschauss · Post by **pschauss** » Jul 17th, '19, 22:26

Bob

Can you post a picture of that aluminum triangle? Isn’t the rear bulkhead going to get in the way when I pull out the inner window frame?

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Jul 17th, '19, 22:36

i cannot show you the triangle i no longer have the OEM windows i built my own and used tempered limosine tinted glass. the rear bulkhead will not get in the way because you are only moving the window frame 3/8" toward the inside to allow the broken window to slide out then you insert new window back in push fram back,insert triangle and screws apply sealant under outside lip and under frame on inside --------done

Dug · Post by **Dug** » Jul 18th, '19, 20:05

Pete, give me a call... 617-592-4834.

PeterPalmieri · Post by **PeterPalmieri** » Jul 18th, '19, 20:31

Dug wrote:Pete, give me a call... 617-592-4834.

I’ll give you a call in the morning. Thanks Dug.

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Jul 20th, '19, 13:19

like you with dramatic medical scare , all is well after hospital stay. moving on ;ok that window repair is a walk in the park assuming you are going with clear 1/4" plexiglass. mind as well do both sliders on that side at the same time. very close estimate would be $300.00 dolars but you would be better off buying a 4x8' at wholesale and save it.i had 1/4" tinted but gave it away . for the starboard side you really have to take out the frame with windows. you could go one piece and never have leaks as with sliders.

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Jul 21st, '19, 06:09

I think Petes wife needs the air circulation inside cabin...without AC it can get brutal in there even with hatch and door open.

As you said Bob, full sheet and you have enough for both on one side plus one more if I remember correctly. Material cuts well with wood working tools...table saw or circular, belt sander or even orbital to clean up edges, to fit.

Think me and dad bought 3 sheets for our two boats, $160 a sheet comes to mind, and that was Dark Grey UV Makralon( polycarbonite) which is pricier then plexiglasss( acrylic).

No frame removal needed, break out old bend and pop in new.

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Jul 21st, '19, 07:46

Carl i agree on your method for port side but in a FBC the starboard side you will have to remove frame.a piece of cake with a REAL Fein tool .first attemp to remoce SS slotted screws if they don`t come out cut with Fein tool. Again this is not my choice i would always replace with one piece tempered tinted glass and a even better limoseine tint which is the same brightness as clear glass but is only one way but cost a fortune however the frame cost 36.00 to make and last 100 years instead of 17,000 !!!!!! A word to the wise; to cut plexi glass or polecarbonate on a curve you use the weird looking jig saw blades with teeth going up and use paint thinner as lubercant with material held down with clamps.i gave away all my polycarbonate tinted windows and made my own one piece tempered glass with the benefit of no water leaks and used A/C. also gives you a NO mold condition.i would think a happy medium would be hatch open,cabin door open with one piece polycarbonate side windows also at dock you can open front windows and aft windows.

Raybo Marine NY · Post by **Raybo Marine NY** » Jul 21st, '19, 08:35

Pete wants opening windows , he doesn’t want to close the boat up.
50 years with opening windows and lives to tell the tale.
I can wire my house for pennies compared to a licensed electrician doesn’t mean the licensed electrician isn’t allowed to make a living. LAbor,insurance, materials,tools and shops to work in costs money

I always wonder where the “I can do that myself” comparison stops, i would say brain and heart surgery “$100,000 for heart surgery, heck I can do it myself”

I think pete also has a bent frame which is why he wanted to change it but I also advised him to replace the broken piece with a cut piece of plastic

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Jul 21st, '19, 09:03

robbie the ridiculous low price come from a rare experiance i came across.not comparing your trade to another.i came across AZAK brand molding at East Islip lumber with the company rep. he went on to explain his product and i asked "can i bend it in a arc" his answer was yes.unlike box store crap the AZAK brand molding for the million dollar homes on the water is solid pvc unlike the box store with that soft gooey internal make up. very expensive to use surronding a hampton house for reveal in soffit,facia but a 20 million dollar home in Southhampton what the hell. so i took a piece home in 16' and made the front top miter than left extra long and made that differcult bottom rear miter and put together this AZAK IS quarter round by 3/4" around the outside frame but first built inside molding with left over Coosa board on table saw. Timmy from this board sent me a box of window U shaped rubber membrame that i put around window mainly to take any shock from hard impact only because i am using tempered glass. i assemble this outside frame with Azak glue and installed with a special tube of white compound they gave me. perfect job no leaks ,has had no maintenace for 15 years just like the detail on the hampton waterfront home. a 16' piece cost about $18.00 and with three miter joints good for 100 years.

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Jul 21st, '19, 09:25

robbie i have never wired a house in my life but it sounds interesting. this was not made as a play on your trade just came about it with sales rep. you can bent without breaking about 70 degrees if you need to top piece is one piece.

Raybo Marine NY · Post by **Raybo Marine NY** » Jul 21st, '19, 13:33

I’m not the one fabricating/selling FULL set of frames AND windows for $17k I’m not insulted by it.i just understand how time and overhead is money. I’m sure the pizza dough is the least of the cost of a slice of pizza and I can cook my own steak for less than the $60-$90 a steakhouse charges.

Curious how much were the 2 pieces of “limo glass” for the sides ?

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Jul 21st, '19, 14:18

the limo glass was about 6 times the price of tinted safety glass . i also used it for cockpit windows and cabin door. when you are inside during the day it as almost as bright as clear glass but offers a private cabin for the women at dock and overnight stays.you also have to be dead on with template because the glass cannot be altered once made. the made reason for this AZAK frame was even after i did the whole nine yards with alluminum frame including anodise,then 545 awlgrip primer,awlgrip top cote. and it still started to pit over time. the Azak is the cat`s meow like i said thats all they use for homes on or near the water.funny thing about having a open mind even in your own trade . i walk into my friend auto shop some years back while he was removing ball joints from a van.a air chisel makes a terrible noise for anybody around you and he was struggling because of the thickness of air chisel bit i said can i try something . i had a sawsall in my truck with a harden steel blade so i cut thru that ball joint in a minute or so.he is one of the best diesel mechanics on the island now head hocho at PENN. catapiller . the object lesson here is a sawsall is NOT a tool of the trade in a 20,000 dollar Snap On tool box and he just shook his head in disbelief.this above mention frame procedure is about the same.Captain Patrick comented to me in a e-mail about my use of a "porta-power" to install Helmley winshield thats because i am not in the fiberglass trade and did it as a layman.

Raybo Marine NY · Post by **Raybo Marine NY** » Jul 21st, '19, 15:28

Bobbie I’m not questioning the materials I don’t know why that’s what you are taking away from this.

I’m just saying when someone else sells a product,service, they are entitled to get paid for their time and that product
Did you keep track of the time and materials you had into the front window delete and side window fabrication along with the glass itself?

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Jul 21st, '19, 16:14

OMG hundreds of hours i would go broke trying to make a living revamping 31 Bertrams.to add to this i build my boat never to sell and to make sure my son who will inherit the boat never will be able to sell,grandson can sell all the legal work in the world cannot prevent second generation sales. i will end this now i am not the least bit concerned with going off on a tangent but other get quite flustered with do`s and don`t

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Jul 22nd, '19, 08:41

bob lico wrote:Carl i agree on your method for port side but in a FBC the starboard side you will have to remove frame.

Bob,

My "method" is to break the glass out of the frames with a hammer.
Insert plastic panels into existing frames by bending the plastic into frame channels and done.

My "method works on both sides equally well.
I did it, I know.

Old safety glass has that plastic film inside, so although broken, the old glass window can still be used as a template to cut the new plastic windows.
Plastic needs to be trimmed a little shorter then glass otherwise it jams in the track when trying to insert.
I think I had to go almost 3/16" shorter in some spots to get them to go in.
It was cut, try to fit, trim, try to fit, trim and in.

bob lico wrote: i gave away all my polycarbonate tinted windows and made my own one piece tempered glass with the benefit of no water leaks and used A/C. also gives you a NO mold condition.i would think a happy medium would be hatch open,cabin door open with one piece polycarbonate side windows also at dock you can open front windows and aft windows.

One piece Dark Tempered glass is the perfect look, in my opinion.

BUT
Glass means the track must be opened...that IS a JOB.
That Job is a can of worms which I would not take on lightly.

Yep, AC will make it comfy if your windows do not open.
That means generator when not at dock. If we are talking Peter, I think he does not have shore power, so it would be generator dockside too...oh and an AC unit - plus the time and coin to install that...and wel I guess a generator would be needed too. I'm also not a huge fan of gas gensets, seem they have a limited life and every rebuild seems to start with " You'd be better off buying a new one..."
That is just me and my take from when I had to make similar decisions some years ago.

Yes, the hatch with open door can make inside acceptable...but nothing like cross ventilation with opening side windows.
I made my plastic panels a bit longer and my wife picked up on that rather quickly, she was not happy about it.
But longer keeps them in place better, makes them harder to remove, less driven water comes in, and a bit darker.

If I ever get to the point of doing some real cosmetic work to her...its new tracks and dark tempered glass I know.
Still think I'd have them open, but that is a desicion that is a ways away.

PeterPalmieri · Post by **PeterPalmieri** » Jul 22nd, '19, 09:27

Thanks for all the comments guys. I’m going use this local guy to replace with sliding Plexi glass in the existing bent frame.

My reasoning is first time, second I have a regular boat slip and I’d be hanging off the side doing the work. It’s not big money. Someone even offered me windows they already had cut to size.

That being said I don’t want AC, and I don’t want all windows sealed tight on the boat. We slept on the boat for a 3 day weekend and managed without AC or attaching to shore power. It’s was just fine. I’d also never consider closing in the front windows, that’s just not our thing.

I’ve given serious thought to fiberglass window frames, AC, generator and new diesel power. To be honest I’d rather have a newer 35 Cabo or 36 Bertram with a second stateroom with over under bunks, separate shower. Nice galley and storage. Enough room for guests on the bridge and a live well in the transom along with fishboxes in the deck. IF I’m going to spend the money. My wife leans towards a beach house and a small center console if we are spending that kind of money.

Personally for me windows on the Bertram are an expense they won’t make our boating experience any better or worse and these bigger projects take away time spent with the kids and have me spending another year sitting at a desk paying for it rather then out using the boat.

We also ran out for tuna a few weeks back, the kids had enough when we got 15 miles out, 35 miles is to far for them. We ran out with the front hatch and side windows open. They were drawing and playing games. When we started trolling I opened the front windows. I’m not running a meat boat we had my 80 yr old parents with us.
That being said can you imagine I bought the boat when carter was a year old, we changed his diaper in Neil’s boat at out first rendezvous in green port. He will be 10 next week and our little guy Justin is 7 today. Time flies.

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Jul 22nd, '19, 11:04

Only you and your family know how the boat is used best and it seems the decision was made accordingly.

Down the road, maybe things change and another route will be chosen.
Its a boat, not a stone, things like this can be erased and redone pretty easily.

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Jul 22nd, '19, 16:27

i believe your right Carl ,as i get into my golden years i really don`t have a opinion on other people choices but in this case i sit in total amazement. twenty years ago when i bought the boat and the three families boarded and were happy enought just to get to fire island. then they began to look around especially my dauther whom brings terror to the court house and never lost a case.when team up with mother i haven`t a prays chance. DAD the inside of the cabin is like living in a fish bowl with ZERO PRIVACY are you kidding me!!!!
the boat next to us in a slip on Fire Island is two feet away do we have to dress up as in a full suit to go to the bath room at night,change cloths,change bathing suit----NOT!!!!! could not even eat at the table in the morning without the feeling of people walking by on dock or boats on both sides looking in-------okay front windshield out and replaced,side windows, cockpit windows, door windows all replaced with limo glass and ice cold A/C not just for obvious coftable temperature,humidity advantage MAINLY for NO BUGS,green flys,you name it especially at watch hill fire island.they would never live in a fish bowl again! i am neutral i use as fishing boat but wife comfort is most important with cardiac arrest past. i rest my case!

Raybo Marine NY · Post by **Raybo Marine NY** » Jul 22nd, '19, 16:56

Pete sounds like he would be happy with just a sliding window that isn’t broken

Not everyone is ready to take the saws all out and invest tens of thousands of dollars or “hundreds of hours” , sounds like he just wants a window that ain’t broke

neil · Post by **neil** » Jul 22nd, '19, 17:14

Peter ,go big or go home ,solid windows and ac your boys are worth it,when they boarded our boat they wished that dad would do it ,you only live once ,your wife loved our boat

Raybo Marine NY · Post by **Raybo Marine NY** » Jul 22nd, '19, 17:24

Peer pressure bertram31.com style

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Jul 22nd, '19, 21:12

Peter

The issue we always found is that with the side windows open, spray would soak everything in the cabin. They have not been open in 44 years. Since no kids, no one is in the cabin while running unless it is raining. Yes at the dock or on the hook it can get warm. But on the hook, hatch open, door open, nice breeze passes through the cabin, plus up in the v berth is like AC.

Maybe once I hit the lotto, I will turn the boat over to someone to do all the good upgrades. Right now, we fish her, she can take us were we want to go, and yes my wife wants curtains for privacy. Maybe I will give her that.

But I keep praying I don't crack a window like you did. Ugh.

Enjoy the boat, do what you need to do and make memories.

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Jul 22nd, '19, 21:13

Bob

I understand the use of Azek on the outside as a frame, but why did you not use it on the inside also?

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Jul 22nd, '19, 21:16

Raybo Marine NY wrote:Bobbie I’m not questioning the materials I don’t know why that’s what you are taking away from this.

I’m just saying when someone else sells a product,service, they are entitled to get paid for their time and that product
Did you keep track of the time and materials you had into the front window delete and side window fabrication along with the glass itself?

Everyone is entitled to a fair profit was what I always preached when I was working. I think that is what the point you were trying to make.

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Jul 22nd, '19, 22:28

i could have but i had the long pieces of coosa in the shop so i used it however good observation it would have save all the labor of filling all the pin holes and primer and paint. the use of Azek is a finished product but i painted interior all in one with the window frame. i would definitely use the Azak in and out if i had to do another 31.

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Jul 23rd, '19, 07:00

neil wrote:Peter ,go big or go home ,solid windows and ac your boys are worth it,when they boarded our boat they wished that dad would do it ,you only live once ,your wife loved our boat

Neil-

We met Bob at Greenport some years ago, Bob gave my wife the full tour of his boat pointing out many of the improvements he made. Doreen loved his boat, found it difficult to believe it was the same 31 cabin we have.

On our way home from the rendezvous Doreen started to ask questions like, what would it take to glass in the front like Bobs boat. How about redoing the head like Bobs boat. What about....

...each answer kinda came back the same. I could do for a few thousand dollars, but most likely not use boat for next season as I have only a few hours a week to tinker these days. Or we pay someone to do it, but I won't be around to use it as I will be working to pay that bill as I refuse to take a loan out for a boat at this time in my life. Nor will I dip into other funds...it is either out of pocket or its out of budget.

Solid windows and A/C are great, but they are trumped by opening windows, curtains for privacy and getting to use and enjoy the boat.

BoB, Yes if at Watch Hill in Fire Island those green flies show no mercy...
For that reason we bring a screen house and setup behind the boat on A dock. Green flies only seemed to come out around that 5-6 o:clock time period when we'd be cooking dinner. Before and after that it was usually fine. Hot as it was there I do not recall many if any nights that were not comfy sleeping with a light breeze.

Would A/C make it better...eh.
Last time we went my bud had his 32 Luhrs with AC.
Sure in the morning it would have been nice to sleep a bit longer as soon as that sun came up it was hot and humid inside boat...but otherwise its like camping. Get up and enjoy nature.

Bob- I can't speak for anyone but me...I'd love to redo boat in a similar fashion to yours....but my budget and time is limited. So like when you first got your boat and just enjoyed getting out...I'm still happy to just get out and use it as is. In time things may change, but for now its dependable, safe and then we worry about cosmetics and comforts...its much better to be sweating on a boat at the beach then not be on a boat at the beach. Better to be fishing off a boat then on a beach fishing watching boats fishing.

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Jul 23rd, '19, 08:29

carl i never cut out boat time because i always do my improvements in the winter and early spring. boat is ready for water in 1st week in may every year.actually i have nrver paid for labor except the first hull side paint job after that i did all the painting also.i spent more time experimenting with props than anything else.

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Jul 23rd, '19, 09:57

Bob -

I used to be able to leave work when we closed or even earlier if things were quiet. My partner/father would mind the fort and I could get boat stuff done. I was able to tackle at least one major project a year and still get the boat in for the spring bass run.

Fast forward to now...an hour or two after work, once or twice a week does not allow for much headway on boat projects. I'd have bet I would have been in the water by now and still I'm not that close.

I could pay someone to do it...but then I'd have to pay someone to do it.
Plus I'm a little fussy with people working on my stuff. I can get half arsed by rushing through it myself and at least it would be right.

thuddddddd · Post by **thuddddddd** » Jul 23rd, '19, 14:15

couple of things ..
all this talk about glass/plexi/lexan … makes me laugh

Second and more importantly ….

Peter …. I'd look long and hard at Magg's dads boat .. should be a great platform for what your describing .. and (relatively) cheep... It was on my short list before I bought the topaz when he wanted a much bigger number … if I didn't have the 34 hatt in the garage, I'd probably buy it as a project (cause that's just what I need …. )

PeterPalmieri · Post by **PeterPalmieri** » Jul 23rd, '19, 14:49

You guys are pretty funny, Tim I don't see the 35 Bert as a fishing boat but it is a good deal. My thought is though that the 36 is well laid out as is the 35 Cabo or Henriques, you've got to go way bigger or give up the cockpit to get anything more then over under bunks in the cabin. Most of those are in the 200k ballpark which is what a full blown 31 restoration will run, assuming you pay someone to do the work. I'm not doing any of that I'm pretty happy to keep what I have in reasonable working order. Still have to get the boat over to Raybo to have the bridge painted now that most of the rewiring and electronics are done. Holes in the boat aren't as bad as creating holes in the bank account so I haven't jumped on doing that. She really looks good from a few feet out....

So what I am doing is replacing both sets of side windows and the front windows that open. I had cracked one of the front windows a few years ago. When I got the boat the curved windows were replaced with a light amber tint so both front and side windows will now match, all the other windows had a grey tint. It will take 2 sheets of 1/4 plexi and a days labor to remove, cut and install new windows.

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Jul 23rd, '19, 20:31

Peter

Keep us posted on the window replacement. Would love to know just how they get that starboard window out and back in without taking the boat half apart.

PeterPalmieri · Post by **PeterPalmieri** » Jul 24th, '19, 06:14

A glass cutter down the middle on the both sides and the old windows will be pushed from the inside out. The old windows will be used as a template and the new plexiglass can be bent enough to get them in place

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Jul 24th, '19, 06:41

PeterPalmieri wrote:A glass cutter down the middle on the both sides and the old windows will be pushed from the inside out. The old windows will be used as a template and the new plexiglass can be bent enough to get them in place

Well if you want to use a glass cutter...I guess that could work too.

But...not half as much fun as smashing glass with a hammer!

I think I enjoyed that part even more then standing back and looking at the finished job.
Make that I know I did enjoy it more...