Cabin sole repair

[pschauss]

I need to repair/replace a section of the cabin sole on the starboard side. Since I have the sport fisherman model, it looks like I am going to have to remove all of the cabinets associated with the lower helm seat and the kitchenette (plastic counter top and sink). What is the best way to take all of this apart in such a way that I can put it back when I am done? Looking at these units from the outside it is not obvious how all of the pieces are held in place. Since this stuff is in good shape, I would like to reuse it if possible.

Thanks,

[Rawleigh]

Peter: I have never had mine out, but I believe that in my 1966, my helm seat is fastened to wooden cleats that are accessible through the door. I don't know about the rest, but I assume they are fastened down to the floor and the cabin side in a similar fashion.

[Ernie Sandoval]

Peter: I tried to look up your model and year to see a picture of the interior set-up. The one I saw had the Fridge right behind the helm seat. If yours is like that then I'd pull the fridge forward (4/6 face screws) and take a look behind it to see what's going on. On my boat the floor does not carry through to the sides. It's just straight through the middle and under the dinette. I wish you were pulling out the dinette. I could tell you exactly how to do that since I'm doing it right now. On the Dinette side it was pretty simple but screwed down very methodically. Sometimes the screws were buried a little deep or had junk on them so they were hard to locate at first glance. The trim molding was also a intregul part. I'd get a flashlight and open some cabinets, drawers, hatches and start trying to figure it out. My boat is put together pretty simply. Very easy to work on. If you decide to deconstruct, take a ton of pictures to remember how it looked. Baggies for screws labeled with blue tape on them and/or taped to the part helped. A very nice small trim nail puller/prybar is about your number one tool. I put some blue tape on it to not scuff up my wood and use a sacrificial scrap piece to pry against. Once you get started don't be surprised if you find other things to fix. Have fun!!

[pschauss]

Ernie,

My boat does not have the refrigerator. The space aft of the lower helm seat is taken up entirely by a fiberglass counter top with an integrated sink at the aft end. Below the counter top is a cabinet with three door behind which are shelves. Two forward sections of the cabinet are lined with white Formica so there is no way to see what is under or behind the unit without taking it apart. My next step will probably be to disconnect the plumbing for the sink and remove the counter top.

[Ernie Sandoval]

Oh boy, not sure. If the countertop is like mine then there are screws around the top of the backsplash with screw caps on them. On mine it hits the head oak wall. Underneath is a wood piece to support the right side. I haven’t tried to get that out yet. I’m sure it comes off because that’s how you’d think you’d install it. Cabinet first then top second. Does the sole have molding around it where it meets the cabinets and helm? It might be WAY easier to cut the sole out to the cabinet and helm and just replace that. If you cut it out perfect you could caulk it or run some small quarter round and be done.

[Ernie Sandoval]

I'll try to get some photo's of behind the fridge. Should be similar

[pschauss]

. Does the sole have molding around it where it meets the cabinets and helm? It might be WAY easier to cut the sole out to the cabinet and helm and just replace that. If you cut it out perfect you could caulk it or run some small quarter round and be done.

Ernie,

Unfortunately the sole runs under the cabinet. The forward corner of the kitchenette cabinet and the aft corner of the cabinet under the helm seat are both resting on the rotten piece of plywood. The yard just finished shrink-wrapping my boat, so, most likely, this project will have to wait until spring. Fortunately, it is note something which will keep me from launching in the spring.

[Ernie Sandoval]

Well that's the perfect attitude to have Peter. You'll get it! I have owned about ten different types of boats and while they were all different one thing remained constant. They all had little hidden items for me to work out. Some smaller and some larger but always something. I've found over time that I actually enjoy getting in there and working out the problems. I always learn something new for the next adventure and its a nice time playing on the boat. It makes the beautiful trouble free days on the water that much sweeter.

[Donmystic1]

I can see “bung” hole around the top trim . You have to carefully dig out the wood and there is a screw under it.
I had the same job when I replaced my bathroom wall on my 1986 flybridge cruiser.

[PeterPalmieri]

I was also trying to figure out how to remove the dinette, the rear facing forward section seems fairly straight forward. But the forward facing rear seat looks like it may have some screw heads buried in the engine compartment. I wonder if it is the same on the galley side of a sportfish? Anyone that has photos would be very helpful

[Ernie Sandoval]

Paul P: I'm redoing that whole side. People have varnished/stained over it a thousand times. They "fixed" it to death. Not sure if your setup is like mine but I would think it would be somewhat similar. I'll post a bunch of photo's I just took for you. You can check if it's similar. Hopefully you can see the screw holes and roughly figure out how it's mounted. Both benches are mounted the same way. 3 screws coming from the back for the fin support. The bow facing seat would be in the engine room (fin) and the stern facing seat in the little closet. The floor screws go through the bench frame on the inside. They may be buried a bit so look carefully if you can't get it to budge. Don't forget the side molding. It is nailed with 3 nails. I didn't want to have to remake them so I carefuly pried the whole molding out. The parts have been varnished in the past so that also causes a little resistance. You may have to run a razor blade over the varnished up areas if it won't pull away. Start wiggling the bench and you will track down the screws holding it. I hope this helps!

[Ernie Sandoval]

Fixed the Photo's I think

[Donmystic1]

On my starboard side where the three drawers are on my 86 28 flybridge the screws were located under the Formica covering.
I was building a new panel anyways so I didn’t mind peeling the Formica off.

[pschauss]

I have the cabinets on the starboard side detached now so that I can move the unit and access the sole on that side. What is the best material to use to replace the existing plywood?

[Yannis]

I had the chance to get into the cabin of a new arrival 31 in my yard. I had forgotten how miserable this cabin is, same miserable as my 28’s when I bought her. Miserable.
Today my cabin is not miserable. I demolished everything and made twice the space. In the 31 I had the worker hold the meter and measured the dinette’s length at 1,88. No one can really sleep in 1,88. Mine was miserably similar 1,90 or something. I narrowed the hanging locker by half and obliterated the 3 drawers.. you can do the same with the port locker and allocate half to the v birth and half to the salon space. Starboard side you can move galley 30 cm towards the gunnel and add that space to the middle floor area. Easy. Ikea is your friend. Have many pics, just ask!

[Tony Meola]

3/4 cocoa board or something similar makes a good base. Then you can decide what to put on top of it. Teak and Holly, or one of the new fake teak and Holly or a coat of gel coat. Your choices are wide open.

[pschauss]

I assume that you mean “coosa”. Is there some place in the New York metro area that sells it so that shipping cost won’t be so high?

[Ernie Sandoval]

I replaced the little piece of floor between the benches and used treated plywood with a few coats of West System Epoxy. The old piece didn't have any water damage and lasted 32 years so I figured that was probably okay not to get too fancy. So many other things to worry about.

[Tony Meola]

Peter

If you use plywood, make sure you seal it well with epoxy so it never rots again. The advantage of Coosa is it does not soak up water and it is light. You will need to put some glass cloth on it.

If you are looking for Coosa or something similar, look up any fiberglass suppliers in your area. I found thses guys with a quick search.


http://www.dynagrout.com/