Permanently mounted the center console yesterday. This is a shot of it suspended from another one of my beam creations. It weighs over 300 pounds, so it's tough to lift by myself Lots of sticky goo and fasteners. It will support the T-top.
Thinking about trim tabs. The outside edge of the hull is complicated and small, so I was thinking about installing them on the bump out. Shorter lever arm, but I can easily fit 18" (+) tabs. Thinking about Bennett electric tabs. Any thoughts? Thanks!
Looking good, did you through bolt the helm to the deck? when you planned it out, did you put extra blocking under the deck to distribute the loads?
On the tabs, my boat with twin I/Os had them originally and I took them off as I never used them, pump was dead when I bought the boat. I still have the tabs and rams that go on the outside of the area which you are describing.
I am going to do a wait and see approach to tabs and only put them on if I run into problems. For the most part the boat didn't have lean issues under way, the only times I wanted tabs was to keep the bow down in tight chop
Yannis - not much of a US presence with Hydrotabs, but I like parts of the design.
The console is so wide (how wide is it, Cam?) that it almost rests on the stringers. There are bulkheads below deck that provide additional support. It weighs a ton because of the large size and the materials I used. My deck is all 1" Coosa with glass top and bottom. Strong like ox! Yes, it is bolted, screwed, and glued. If I could weld, I would have welded it in place as well!
I think I have overbuilt the whole boat. I have the cap permanently installed now (neat trick to do by yourself, BTW) and I can dance anywhere on it without detecting any deflection. I beat on it with my fist and it goes thud. no rattles, shakes or shimmies. It will be interesting to see how it reacts to a head sea pounding.
Experiment continues...
1963 Bertram 25
1973 Boston Whaler 13 - sold!
1998 Scout 172 SF - beach taxi
Im using InstaTrim because that is what was on the boat when I bought it. Picked up a new kit on eBay for a reasonable price. New pump, New actuators, New hosing, New switch and wiring. Works great. I have new stainless tabs, but used the ones already on the boat, keeping them in case I damage a tab. Since it was a direct replacement, no new holes or holes to repair. http://insta-trim.com/product-category/ ... b-systems/
Sea Hunt Triton 207, a step down, but having fun till my next Bertram!
If anyone finds some time to elaborate, what kind of servicing do trim tabs require? Pump, actuators, or anything else? Are there any set intervals for particular check-ups?
Instatrim has/had (?) a specific model that fit the B25 transom bump out.
I've got them on 2 of my B25's.
They work great!
I'll attempt to post up pic's.
Keep the hydraulic fluid at the correct level. ( will stay there unless you have a leak)
Check the hoses periodically.
Don't paint the actuators.
Periodically check the electrical connections.
In other words, keep an eye on them as you would the rest of the boat.
Sea Hunt Triton 207, a step down, but having fun till my next Bertram!
Thank you for the photo and comments. Do you recall the InstaTrim part number, Joe?
Tabs in this location have to be small to fit the available space; much smaller than Bennett recommends for 25 foot boats. They probably work fine to correct listing conditions, but how well do these smaller tabs help to keep the bow down?
My goals for moving to the bump out were to 1) max out the size - 18 x 12 will fit, 2) keep all the mounting/hose/wires, etc. accessible in the bilge area. 3) limit interference with a swim platform (to be designed).
1963 Bertram 25
1973 Boston Whaler 13 - sold!
1998 Scout 172 SF - beach taxi
Cam, I posted pics on Facebook. The original tabs are cut on an angle and are 17 1/2" at the rear of the tab. They are 8" deep. The new ones I bought are I think 12x12, but they are currently buried somewhere in the garage. When (If) I can find them I will measure. You have about 14" where they are mounted to the stern.
Facebook link in signature below.
Sea Hunt Triton 207, a step down, but having fun till my next Bertram!
The other B25 I have has the style tabs you're (Joe) referring to.
Where the actual tab was cut to fit the bump out (wider on the trailing edge).
I don't have pic's of that one readily available.
That was the 1st B25 I had redone 15+yrs ago.
There is no discernible difference in the performance of either style.
Georgian Bay/Lake Huron is infamous for a nasty close chop in certain conditions.
These tabs hold the bow down very well so that it cuts through it, and nobody spills a drink.
Love it! Thanks for the input. I'm still leaning towards 18x12s on the bump-out itself, but we'll see. I might launch first, tab later. I need to see if this thing a) floats, b) moves under its own power
1963 Bertram 25
1973 Boston Whaler 13 - sold!
1998 Scout 172 SF - beach taxi
Cam,
I didn’t end up putting tabs on my 63’ 25. This Hull will not list even with multiple people on one side. I’ve even had people shift across from one side to another at high speed and no difference. Advantage of the 10’ beam. Also with my 300hp OB I have no problem keeping the bow down and get up on plane in about 8 seconds. In fact, I’m probably going to raise my OB another hole because I get a lot of spray at OB when I’m initially throttling up. I also have to trim the OB up to almost 70 percent to get max speed. Not sure if that is right. In rough weather heading into chop, I need the bow higher so she won’t pound or I have to cruise at a very low speed (12mph). A disadvantage of the 10’ beam. Raising the bow would let me take advantage of the DV further back. In a following sea she does amazing and can cruise a a good speed (27mph).
PS - Great hull color!! Looks amazing. Will she go in this spring? Can’t wait to see photos, videos and performance numbers.
Lots of sticky goo and fasteners. It will support the T-top.
