Toilet macerator service

[Yannis]

How can I service/freshen-up the electrical component (macerator) of my toilet?
I heard one has to disassemble it from the bowl, open it and sharpen/clean the SS teeth, lubricate ? what is there to lubricate ? perhaps change a few gaskets?
I haven't done anything similar before and I want to anticipate any difficult future situations...
Thanks.

[Tony Meola]

Yannis

What brand? What ever you do, make sure you wear a Hazmat suit.

[Yannis]

Tony, no need for a suit.
The bowl is clean, when I returned I filled it with vinegar and after a few days I flushed the vinegar away with additional fresh water.
The question is what to do above and beyond this, so that the system continues to work flawlessly.
The brand I don’t remember, it’s one of those well known ones, I’ll tell you next time I go down to the boat.

[Tony Meola]

Yannis

Knowing the make and model will help find an owners manual which will help with servicing. Looking around online, I see Raritan has a new mouse trap built into their new pumps so servicing it is different than from others.

https://www.powerboat-world.com/news/21 ... t-and-easy

Check out this video

[Yannis]

Tony,

I don't know what one can make out of these pics.
The prospectus, which I found in the boat papers' file, describes a toilet base kit by Jabsco; is the macerator included in this?
Even if it is, the macerator as shown, except for a few numbers on a sticker does not carry any Jabsco brand indication.
The prospectus doesn't say anything about a servicing need or procedure....
I hate to even imagine that it can go sour during the summer.


3 pics
https://imgur.com/a/9uLFQBV

[Tony Meola]

Yannis

That is the same toilet I just installed in my boat last summer. I do not remember the owners manual talking about servicing. I do not believe you need to until they quit. I am sure you can replace the impeller.

I will check to see what I can find.

[Tony Meola]

http://jabscotech.com/

Yannis

See if this link helps you out.

[Yannis]

Tony, if I’m to find out when it’ll quit, it’s too late.
I was thinking of removing this toilet and putting a FII which is auto, but when need arises (when it breaks down), it can be switched to manual!
When it’s auto, the outcome through the throughhull is a slurry, immediately eaten away by the happy fish! , when it’s manual it’s the real thing...this is what somehow makes me think because we’re too many around...

[Tony Meola]

Tony, if I’m to find out when it’ll quit, it’s too late.
I was thinking of removing this toilet and putting a FII which is auto, but when need arises (when it breaks down), it can be switched to manual!
When it’s auto, the outcome through the throughhull is a slurry, immediately eaten away by the happy fish! , when it’s manual it’s the real thing...this is what somehow makes me think because we’re too many around...

Yes but did the link help?

[Bruce]

Those par heads do have seals that will leak back into the motor and on the floor. Depending on the salinity of the water and any stray current, the end of the shaft where the maceration blade is, can corrode off. The water in is a rubber impeller.
All is maintainable and should be serviced every two years just like any other rubber impeller.

Yes they will go longer, but preventive maintenence is just that.

Vinegar is not good for rubber parts as are caustic cleaners which can attack the metal.

4 screws and the whole motor, maceration pump assembly comes out to service after the wires are disconnected.

For those with ample fresh water supply or dock side, the head inlet can be plumbed to that for a whole lot less issues and maintenance.

[Yannis]

Tony, Bruce,

Thank you.
I will try to remove those 4 screws, and come back with what happened...only its a bit too tight and I might need to remove the whole toilet assy first. Yes, why would it be simple if it can be complicated, right?!!

[Bruce]

One caviat on those screws. The thread parts are brass nut zerts pressed into the plastic. If screws are frozen in them the zerts can be twisted out of plastic.

If the screws won't back out fairly easy, soak with a good penetrant that creeps. Try again.

Good luck.

[Yannis]

Thanks Bruce,

I will soak them before I even start and hope for the best.

[Yannis]

So, after sometime spent on the sole, teaching those 4 screws new languages, I managed to disconect the macerator body from the head support and pulled it out.
I found a plastic jacket that encapsulates the blade and the plastic impeller behind it; this jacket is around the macerator body and slides in between the macerator and the bowl support to make (with the help of an O ring) a tight fit.
I removed the blade and cleaned it, as I also cleaned the jacket; the O ring is too old to be reused, I will have to find a new one.

Question: Do I need to open the actual pump? Are there serviceable parts inside? Is there a rubber impeller in there that may need replacement? I’m afraid to start playing around with things I don’t know and I hate ro ruin the existing water tightness if I don’t really have to.
All and any help are welcome.

[Tony Meola]

Yannis

There is an impeller. Try taking the model number off the pump, and ordering a rebuild kit. They are available online. If you can not get one, I am sure we can find one and mail it to you on the QT.

[Yannis]

Thanks Tony,

Will take all elements and visit my local jabsco shop. Will tell you what happened.

The more I think of it, the more I’m inclined to change it into a manual head. It is not that this head ever gave me problems, actually it always performed perfect. It is the insecurity it gives me that it might start playing tricks on me in plain summer, in remote places, where I will be completely unable to fix or replace...let alone the hassle. Whereas the manual, you pump, you dispose, youre done. Neeeext...

[Bruce]

Here's a link to an exploded view and parts. There is an impeller and seal.

https://www.fisheriessupply.com/jabsco- ... ment-parts

[Yannis]

Bruce thanks,

I guess I have to disconect it and take it to be opened and have the impeller replaced.
Because I can certainly not start tampering into it...I will do more harm than good I’m sure.
You said it should be serviced every 2 years, mine goes on for at least 7 years without the slightest care...I’m pushing my luck right?

[Bruce]

Not necessarily.

My maintenence schedule on impellers was every two years. While many will go longer, when I did this stuff full time most my customers wanted to be able to use their boats without worrying about something breaking or leaking.

Regular maintenance solved that problem.

[Yannis]

I do too, only I had no idea a toilet pump needed servicing.
I change my impellers on the Yanmars every one or two years max too, because it's a matter of safety at sea.
It somehow occurred to me that a toilet impeller is not a matter of safety (which it isn't), but, try to underestimate doing preventive maintenance to this item, to quickly discover the meaning of the expression "...when the sh#t hits the fan".

[Yannis]

With the help of my electrician, we opened, reletively easily, the pump to find the impeler. It looked (in the eye and in the touch) like brand new. Checked that it revolves freely and that there are no obstructions in the chamber and he lubricated it. Without further delay we closed the pump back and I’m now ready to put the whole assy back under the toilet bowl.
I hope we did the right thing, although it might have been better to also replace the impeler. Time will show if we chose to do the right thing. I’m seriously contemplating to replace my toilet with this Raritan Phii model which is electric but turns into manual when the system breaks down, oh well, at some point in the future that is.

[Carl]

If your that worried about it, carry an extra pump and impeller, couple O-rings and now that you know how to replace it can be done relatively quick if the need should arise.

[Yannis]

Carl, Im worried because I sleep 100 nights per year in the boat. Alone or with kids, friends, even once I was ethically compelled to invite a french guy from the boat next door, where they had killed themselves (verbally) the previous day, he was thrown overboard and he had nowhere to sleep...
The pump alone sells for north of €250. With a bit more I can change the whole head, bowl and pump. I told my electrician that an intermediate idea would be to buy a simple manual head. He didnt like the idea. He brought up some vivid scenes whereby you could find yourself in the situation whereby you have to ....kill the beast but it doesnt get killed, if Im not too explicit...
Or you can buy a chinese one for € 100 or so. This, I would definitely not do, this is like asking for trouble!

[Carl]

Yup, the pumps are pricey and they are the weak link.

I understand it Kinda kills ya to carry a spare pump as its a hefty price tag...but its easier to find a place to store a spare pump then a spare head.

Just saying...if it keeps you up at night worrying about the head, well whats a good nights sleep worth.
Of course if you have a spare pump and impeller, that will not be the item that fails...

[Yannis]

I’m laughing because thats exactly what it is, if you bring a spare pump it will be a clogged tubing or the on/off push button or the through hull lever or...you name it BUT the pump itself. Boats....

[Tony Meola]

Yannis

You want no problems, you want to sleep at night. Get a Porta Potti. Just grab the plastic bag, tie it off and throw it out. Nothing to clog or break down.

[Yannis]

Tony,
I can't do this. Nor can I ask my guests to do it either.
By the way, there is a yet better and simpler solution to the porta potti. A bucket half filled with sea water. You could normally sit on it, or make a contraption that widens the rim for more comfort. When business is over, you grab it by the handle and out it goes. A rinse and you're done. No need to pack things and look for a trash can on the dock or elsewhere.
I'll stick with what I have and be prepared for...the worse.