Leaking window

[pschauss]

Any suggestions on how to repair leaks in the window frames? From the location of the wet spot on the paper towel which I taped to the bulkhead in the picture below, it looks like the water entering the cabin at the corner of the frame.

http://www.ipernity.com/doc/307687/47780886

thanks,

[Ernie Sandoval]

I am in the process of fixing all my leaks around my windows and screw holes so I can sympathize. It looks to me from your picture that the water is coming in above that left nut (above left black tape) and running in-between the frame and also overflowing and leaving a trail on the metal by that nut. It looks like the glazing (rubber) is kind-of missing on the outside and inside of glass right there. I think I'd tape it or run some silicone over it and just see if that makes it stop. If it does then you could get it sealed right and if not then move on to the next thing. That's what I've been doing. You'll get it.

[Tony Meola]

Peter

The leaks are tough to stop. These boats twist dado much. I have very carefully pulled the frames apart and rebedded only to have them leak again after two years.


Try recaulking from the outside as Ernie said. If you decide to put a cover over the windows it will help.

[SteveM]

I seem to recall reading some of the older threads on this topic where they used Sikaflex. The prep work, like any task, is the key. Then the guys were saying to expect to re do it every 2 years.

[Pete Fallon]

Peter,
I re-bedded the inside window frames with Bulb seal sold at the Window Doctor in Stuart, The old grey material had dried out over time. The Bulb seal is either 3/8" or 5/16 " inches it's not cheap I think I paid $3.65 per foot make sure you buy enough to do both the front windows inside and out. It slides into the aluminum track with a little CX for lube. The other place that is prone to leakage is the plastic/rubber seal at the very bottom of the window frames. This area is a major pain to replace (made by Taylor Made Products) you will have to loosen the window frames and the threaded rods inside the aluminum frame work. It's easier to have a new front canvas cover made to cover the entire forward windshield. Replacing the Bulb Seal just about stopped all the water intrusion to the cabin dash board area for at least 5 years.
Good Luck with that project. I've done it and it's a real Pain in the Ass.
Pete Fallon

[pschauss]

Pete,

For the front windows, are you talking about the seal between glass and the window frame or between the movable and fixed parts of the frame?

Thanks,

[Pete Fallon]

Pschuass,
The area is on the back side of the opening window you will see a grey or black vinyl material that is all flattened out, it runs around the entire window frame on the inside. The outside is a caulking material between the glass and the window frame , I used straight black GE silicon window sealant available at any large glass shop. The old bulb seal flattens out and it leaks at the edges. In your case it looks like the water is leaking via the T bolt on the frame or at the corner he aluminum frame work. The bulb seal will last about four to five years before it starts to dry out. The windshield frame leaks are the hardest to figure out without glassing in the front window completely. Also check the seam between the top of the cabin and the window framework that area dries out after a while. Good luck chasing leaks it's areal pain in the ass.
Pete Fallon

[pschauss]

I am in the process of fixing all my leaks around my windows and screw holes so I can sympathize. It looks to me from your picture that the water is coming in above that left nut (above left black tape) and running in-between the frame and also overflowing and leaving a trail on the metal by that nut. It looks like the glazing (rubber) is kind-of missing on the outside and inside of glass right there. I think I'd tape it or run some silicone over it and just see if that makes it stop. If it does then you could get it sealed right and if not then move on to the next thing. That's what I've been doing. You'll get it.

I touched up the glazing in the area that you suggested and that leak seems to have stopped. With all of the heavy rain we had this week, however, I am seeing water coming in under the fiberglass piece on which the window frames sit. It seems to be coming from the rear corner of the curved window on the starboard side or, possibly, from the forward corner of the frame of the sliding window. Any suggestions on how to attack this one?

Thanks,

[Yannis]

Peter, did you get my mail with the pics you asked for?

[pschauss]

Peter, did you get my mail with the pics you asked for?

No

[Ernie Sandoval]

Hey Peter, glad you got one leak fixed! Without a picture it might be harder to trouble shoot. If I was betting, I’d think it would be leaking from around the center windows and running down to the corners. It makes sense that there’s more grooves and gaps on the center windows for the water to get in. My windows were leaking on each corner of the outside center windows and getting in. It was the corner glazing again. I just sealed it with 5200. Pete Fallon is right about using Sikaflex 295-UV. That’s the good stuff! If your center windows are already caulked or no, get some blue painters tape (wide) and start taping stuff off until you find the area where it’s leaking. You could try a water hose? Then use some of the painters tape to caulk the gap in that area. The tape will allow you to make perfect clean caulk lines. Don’t let it dry before you pull the tape off or the caulking will stick to it and make a messy rough line. If your center windows are not caulked then check the glazing and if that’s not it then you’ll have to redo the seals around the window that open I guess. I have no clue on that one.

[Ernie Sandoval]

Peter, one more easy check. Make sure the side sliders have a clear channel drain. Thats the cutout on the side that lets the water out of that sliding glass aluminum channel when it gets wet. If it was plugged with dirt or FOD then it would allow water to build up and drip in-between the two pieces of glass into the cabin. One issue I had in that channel was the person who at some point had taken that aluminum channel (window frame) out had screwed it back in but not back into the original screw holes. That left three or four screw holes open to drain water into the cabin and under the frame. You couldn't even see the open screw holes because they were covered by the frame. A few of the new offset screws had gone missing and were now allowing water to run into the cabin onto the fiberglass part. That water was then weeping through the original open screw holes and dripping onto the sidewalls and other areas. Just as a precaution, when you look in that channel make sure all the small screws holding it to the fiberglass are accounted for. If one was missing the water would drain right onto the fiberglass dash. I hope this helps or points in you in the right direction!