rub rail replace and install

[Todd Pearce]

As part of my B42 refit i am going to replace my rub rail, How hard a job is it? and is high tides plastic/vinyl the best solution, thanks in advance for your help

[Snipe]

You can also try Integrity marine corporation they represent Barbour plastics they make rub rails for Bertram,Viking, and many others. They will send you samples. I called over the phone they emailed different styles and after I picked one they sent me a sample.

[Pete Fallon]

Todd,
With the exception of the very bow and the transom quarters which are thru bolted with 1/4 20 machine screws, the rest is held on with #10 SS screws, Once you release the bow and transom quarters you will be surprised how easy it comes off. Most of the screws are deteriorated from years of salt exposure. I took my 31 aluminum rub rail off, I was going to go with a new vinyl rub rail but after examining the old rail there was only one bad spot that I filled with JB Weld, I sanded, alodine primed and repainted the rail with 2 coats of Carhart automotive black trim paint and filled the old screw and bolt holes filled all the voids in the deck flange with thickened epoxy and re-bolted the entire rail with 1/4-20 thru bolts all around I used 1" flat stainless fender washers behind each nut. It's a 2 man job but I did it myself with 4 sets of locking pliers and a lot of swearing. I re-caulked the entire bottom and top of the rail with black silicon after it was finished being thru bolted no more black streaks down the hull sides . You will have to counter sink the aluminum rail so the 1/4-20's fit flush into the rub rail. The fellow on the West coast makes a nice white vinyl rub rail that Capt Pat used all the time. I think it was Alex Whittaker but I'm not sure.
Pete Fallon

[mike ohlstein]

It was Alex, and it looks like he's retiring. His molds are for sale.....

http://www.31bertram.com

http://www.31bertram.com/blow-out-parts-for-sale.html


I put his railing on my boat 14 years ago and it's solid today. Fill the inside of it with a good amount of Sikaflex 292.

[Marlin]

I think I usedAlex as well,pvc base rail and stainless insert rail?! Couple things the Capt taught me,cut the bow piece first, maybe 6’ Long, heat up with hot air gun to bend the radius around the bow, have help to hold in place till u get some fasteners installed. Butt check the next piece going aft for fit,recut if needed. I think I then put an alignment insert inside the pvc profile to keep the 2opposing pieces oriented and screwed this assy together temporarily and then temporarily fastened this mid section to the Boat ,both sides.the next piece was the last going aft and I followed the same process but let the aft end fly/extend past the transom,again with temporary fastenings,do both sides. I next cut the transom piece long as I needed to mitre both corner joints of this transom piece as well as the extended side pieces. U will need to take a couple pieces of cut offs to calculate, dry fit , to get the final angle degree as well as final length. This took lots of time and fitting/cutting, once this is done temporarily fasten the transom piece in place, stand back and look at your work, if acceptable, next is to temporarily locate the stainless rub rail ,again starting with bending the bow. It’s important to make sure that thefastener holes in the stainless do not overlap with the screws that hold on the pvc. I then put a piece of masking tape down the entire length of the pvc rail and marked every hole location the stainless rail would need,I think they were 6” centerline, removed the stainless bow piece and installed the final self tapping s/s flat head screws so as not to interfere with the screws that hold the rub rail on. I did thru bolt the pvc at the joints. It take some planning on the front end !

[mike ohlstein]

I was lucky. I just had Randall eyeball it and cut it perfectly......

[Todd Pearce]

guys , thanks so much for your feed back. lots of great tips, anyone had any experience with the product from Danny at High Tide Marine, ?

[31Bertram]

Howdy all, Doggone it I wanna be retired!
Although I don't make parts any more (working on boats is just too hard when you get old). We do have Rubrails, fueltanks and Livewells. Also so long as I have these molds for our boats your all welcome to use them at no cost (deposit of coarse). Just return the molds in better shape than when you borrow them.
Alex

[31Bertram]

Link for Capt Pats install.

https://bertram31.com/parts/guard_rail/index.html

[Tony Meola]

Alex

Hope all is well. Been a while. Thought you did pack it in.

Thank you for the offer to the faithful.

Keep in touch with us all from time to time.

[bob lico]

i also have Alex rub rail and stainless insert. they are well made and i went with Pete`s idea that is 144 SS bolts, flat washers and Nylock nuts . the first operation after removing old rub rail was to glass in the entire seam around the perimeter of boat but the most important tip i want to make is to after you bolt down the entire rub rail at 6" apart you must install the stainless steel insert with exactly 6" spacing with 3" offset so in essence the entire rub rail is bolted 3" on center around the entire perimeter with as mike suggested first apply Sikaflex and wet finger to make a nice seam above and below rub rail so no black streaks form as dirt from deck flows in between rub rail and hull.