Anchor question...

[Dug]

This is probably a technical question of some ridiculous level. I am contemplating a new anchor. I may just inquire with a few of our plating vendors on who might be able to chemically strip and then re-hot dip galvanize my antique original anchor, or I need to replace mine.

The reason is that it is rusting now, and the stain is running down my newly painted deck. Such 1st world problems, right?

So what is the standard sized anchor we have for the chocks that are on the bow? I know the Fortress won’t fit sadly, though I have always felt that the Fortress is too light to anchor under anything other than ideal conditions, as I have actually seen it so that the darned thing would not sink fast enough as the wind was too strong...

What is the make, model, size whatever. Yes, I know “Danforth”. I understand that much. But 16 lb. high tensile? Other?

Just figured if anywhere the knowledge would exist, here is where I will find it for sure!

D

[Tommy]

Dug, you are correct that the Fortress travels slower through the water than the chain, and therefore tends to foul unless played out by hand. But the USCG performed “pulling” tests on all the major anchor manufacturers and Fortress achieved the highest measure of pull in soft bottoms (mud and sand) of all anchors tested. Given that our N.C. coast is predominantly sand and I did mostly shallow depth anchoring (100’ or less for diving; no bottom fishing) I used the Fortress of comparable size as a replacement to the Danforth that was on my 31, and I think I was able to leave the anchor chocks in their original location. Even if you have to make an adjustment to the chock spacing, for me it was worth it. Since no more rust (aluminum/magnesium allow), no more stains. The Fortress FX-11 (7 lbs) is stated to be used on boats 28-32’ and has a shank length of 27”, stock width of 22”, and fluke length of 16”. For my application it couldn’t be beat, and for only around $140. Fortress would not be my choice for deep water anchoring.

[Tony Meola]

Dug

I lost my original anchor and I now have two, a 13 lb Danforth and a 16 Lb. Danforth. The issue I find is this, nothing fits in the original chock configuration. I have searched high and low.

Plus they are now made and China, and I find if I anchor up and the wind is howling, I always bend the dam shank trying to get it up. I don't have a winch. I used to put all kinds of pressure on the original and never bent the dam thing. I curse the day I lost it.

I use the 13 for the shallow bay and so far it holds just find, and the 16 I have for deeper water, but I have never had a real need for it.

I am tempted to try the Danforth High Tensile to see if I can bend that one.

[Carl]

If your set on saving the original that's the way to go. Bring to local hot dip, they strip or blast to prep then dip and bake. It's not pricey, but most likely you"lol be paying minimum lot charge.


Unless you pull a favor you'll be in same price range as new anchor.


For years I just hit quick in glass bead machine then gave a nice flat black aerosol paint job.

When I got tired of that I bought a fortress...let it down slow and its fine.


I like a 16lb steel danforth. 13lb lunch hook.



Happy New Year,

Carl

[Dug]

Well, I did think the 26 lb anchor was WAY too heavy! Phew!

Maybe I will look at the Fortress and see what it would take to “make” it fit the chalks. Hmmm.

And Carl, yep, if I send mine out, it would be a favor for sure.

All awesome feedback!

Thanks!

Dug

[russell pagels]

Hey Dug, on both 31's I used a fortress fx-16, thirty feet of 5/16 g4 chain and 600 ft of 5/8 line. never had a problem setting or hold bottom. stay warm.in the sunny south it's going to be 15 tonight .

[Donmystic1]

Hi Dug,

The new anchor of choice from what I have read is the Rocna.

For my boat (1986 28 Bertram) a 10 KG or 22 lbs recommended.

That's why so many CQR anchors are for sale on Ebay and Craigs lists.

The underwater video of both the Rocna, Danforth, and CQR is telling.

I have a small pulpit so storing it is not a concern.

Don

[Yannis]

Dug,

Take a look, might be helpful.



https://img15.hostingpics.net/pics/7320 ... s20153.jpg

https://img15.hostingpics.net/pics/8164 ... s20154.jpg

https://img15.hostingpics.net/pics/5064 ... s20155.jpg

https://img15.hostingpics.net/pics/5379 ... s20156.jpg

[SteveM]

I have a fortress in the chocks. However, I only use it for sand. Works very well in sand.
Grassy spots I use a claw or bruce style anchor, that’s my go-to anchor for 95% of the time. I keep it in a plastic crate in the back, not pretty, and it’s a workout.

Anyone here installed a bow pulpit with anchor, that would be convenient for older age!

[Tony Meola]

Anyone here installed a bow pulpit with anchor, that would be convenient for older age!

Steve

No such thing if it does not have windlass in the name.

The Key here is young strong sons, and not to be not politically correct daughters also, but a young fishing crew helps also.

I liked UV's set up, the float ball, with a clip on a short length of rope on the stern cleat. Pull the line around to the stern, put the clip around the line. The clip needs to be large enough for the line to slide through, and the rope to the cleat needs to be short enough so the line is elevated out of the water and does not tangle in the prop.

Hook her up and power forward. Line slides through the clip, and the anchor ball pops the anchor. Back up as you pull in the rope and you are all set.

[ranjr13]

Dug - our 31 came with both a Danforth and Aluminum Fortress mounted on the bow, with very little chain. We put a divider in the bow, now have two lines, both with a significant amount of 5/16" chain, and the two anchors mounted are pretty much lunch hooks - I keep a CQR for backup to primary, but primary is an aluminum Spade - the actual one used in this video - got it after they shot the video as a demo. It's very light, but incredible holding. Used it several times last summer, easy to carry up to bow. One of my projects that I'd like to get to this winter is a device, that lays over the bow chock/light, that has a roller, is held at the cleat, so I can drop in place when I want to use a heavy anchor/chain and keep off the rest of the time for original looks. Anyway, here's the link to my favorite anchor - the Spade. https://www.spadeanchorusa.com/

[moguls2go]

One of my projects that I'd like to get to this winter is a device, that lays over the bow chock/light, that has a roller, is held at the cleat, so I can drop in place when I want to use a heavy anchor/chain and keep off the rest of the time for original looks. https://www.spadeanchorusa.com/

Really interesting idea... have you seen this in use elsewhere? How do you imagine the device attaching to the boat?

[Carl]

Anyway, here's the link to my favorite anchor - the Spade. https://www.spadeanchorusa.com/

Wow that thing really digs in well...


...I just do not recall the last time I anchored in dry dirt.

[Pete Fallon]

Dug,
I had a 13 Danforth on the forward deck with 12'[ of chain that was coated in liquid rubber(white) with 100' of 5/16 white 3 strand line that was my lunch hook for the Annassquam River sand banks. For Tuna fishing on Stellwagon I used a 23 Danforth with 30' 5/16'' chain and 600' of gold 3 braid nylon. I kept it in a blue fish tote with an ring big enough to go over the shackle clipped onto a 24" Orange Polyball. Anchored from the cockpit always worked on the first drop, when ready to pull up I cleated the line off the stern quarter, powered forward until the poly ball got to the flukes of the anchor then backed down hard coiling the line into the tote. For where you anchor behind Crane's Beach a Fortress 13 is perfect, orther times get another 13s Danforth.
Pete Fallon

[ranjr13]

Carl, yes, works very well in dry sand, lol - also works well in other bottom types. The thing I really like is that it re-sets when wind/current changes very well.

moguls2go - I need to build it out of cardboard, then wood, then to a local fabricator to build a base of probably 3/8" aluminum, to hold a stainless bow roller. The front would rest on the curvature of the rub-rail with a curved block that hangs down, keeping most of the stress off the bow chock/light, then a block down along the deck to the cleat. The entire bottom would be padded with a soft grippy vinyl or rubber mat. It would slide under the front of the cleat, then a pin/arm would swing across the rear of the cleat to keep it from moving forwards/aft. When in use, the anchor, chain and rode would travel over the bow, clearing the chock and glass that gets worn without protection when the anchor is deployed. Sitting at anchor, the device could remain in place, with the bow roller taking the abuse rather than the boat. Once brought back on board, the thing could be removed by unhooking the little arm/pin behind the cleat, sliding it forward, lifting up and off, and stowing aft so the original lines/bow chock/lights are the only thing visible. This is my initial drawing. If I get the idea farther along, I'll post more pics. Bow Roller 31 Bertram Initial Design 010318

[Tony Meola]

Bob

Interesting idea. If this becomes a reality, I think you could be on to something, especially if you could convert it to other boats. Lets see, with this board, we could probably get a patent and set up a manufacturing facility. LOL

[Dug]

Bob, we should talk. I own a full machine shop, fab shop and production facility. We work in many types of metal including aluminum, stainless and of course ferrous metal.

Dug

[SteveM]

Keep working on that idea Bob Norton. I'll take one when you are done!