26 Bertram Converrtable

Chris Havener · Post by **Chris Havener** » Sep 27th, '17, 08:44

I would like to apologize for the photo's I posted having very strange links attached to them, I think I will stay away from free photo host sites and stick to text post's for now.
Like I said in my first post I am wanting to repower my 26 convertable, it has V-6 Vortecs now, I want to go with small block V-8's. I have been looking around a little, It seems 5.7 Mercruisers would be a good choice. They are the same height and width with the risers on as the V-6"s. The 5.7's are about 6 inches longer than my V-6's and If that is true then I should have room for them. Has anyone done a similar repower. Also I priced out the new engines from Michigan Motorz, complete ready to drop in with everything on them $8300.00 each.
Chris

Bruce · Post by **Bruce** » Sep 27th, '17, 12:14

Chris,
Welcome.
The 5.7 over the V6 is a good option and since they are popular, the pricing can be better. I never repowered the 26 so I can't tell you actual performance or fit. I've done V6 to 5.7 repowers on similar boats and ran into few issues with better performance.

Chris Havener · Post by **Chris Havener** » Sep 27th, '17, 16:14

Bruce
Thanks for the input.
I expect much improved performance from the 5.7's over the V-6's, the V-6 is kind of a dog I think compared to what's available now.
My performance with the 6's is not terrible, 20mph at 3000 rpm and about 28 at 4000, hoping for closer to 30 mph at 3000rpm with the 8's.
I have counter rotating Velvet drives, 1.5 to 1 gears , I will go through them and use them on the 8's. Both engines can be standard rotation.
I have a 1.5 inch shaft and put on new stainless struts already so my running gear is ok.
This will be a winter project, so I will probably start in November and post along the way

I really like this boat, I use it on southern Lake Michigan to fish and just run around on. I also have a 48' Hatteras , Motor Yacht model. Since getting this little Bert The Hat has sat alot, use it more as a condo now.
Chris

Bruce · Post by **Bruce** » Sep 27th, '17, 20:18

Pat and I did the North/South run for the owner of a Hatt 48 fdmy for a few seasons.
Painfully slow, guzzled diesel and following seas kicked our butts in Albemarle sound more than once dodging crab traps and threw us around like a rag doll.

Floating condo is a great idea.

Good luck with the project.

Chris Havener · Post by **Chris Havener** » Sep 28th, '17, 09:30

Bruce
My Hat is slower than most, I have it propped for a 10KT cruise at 1100 rpm and set my WOT at 1500 rpm with 14KT speed. But that is a whole other story, ha.
I have Naiads, they help the ride but following seas are bad.
Chris

Reel Grace · Post by **Reel Grace** » Oct 2nd, '17, 13:19

Chris,

I just acquired a 1984 B26 Sport Convertible with 165 HP original motors 435 hours or so. What should I expect to watch out for in this boat model?
Not to much info on it out there. Why? Not popular, How many are made? Etc. Any info is greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Mike

Chris Havener · Post by **Chris Havener** » Oct 2nd, '17, 21:11

Mike
My 26 had been repowered with V-6"s when I got it. I assume it was done to achieve better performance. I have a 20mph cruise at 3k RPM. Not too bad performance wise I think, but I am sure V-8's would do better and be loaded much lighter than the 6's.
I think the 26 was fairly popular. It came in three configurations, inboard like ours, I/O, and Outboards. There were very few of the outboards made from what understand. Personally I think the inboards should be the best setup, engine weight midship so the boat should have less pitch than the other two options, and the ability to repower with small block V-8's too me is a nice feature. I have counter rotating Velvet Drive transmissions so both motors are standard left hand rotation. The Velvet Drives are rebuild able so that makes it nice too, I think the counter rotating models may be harder to find new.
My 26 doesn't have a stress crack anywhere on it after 33 years, I did have to rebuild my cockpit deck because of wet balsa, not a bad job, it removes with just screws holding in place.
Chris

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Oct 2nd, '17, 21:17

Chris

Just an FYI, most of us are using COOSA for decking material.

Chris Havener · Post by **Chris Havener** » Oct 2nd, '17, 21:30

Tony
That is what I used. It's really nice having these forums to research before doing a project.
Thanks
Chris

Reel Grace · Post by **Reel Grace** » Oct 3rd, '17, 06:06

Chris,

Thanks for the reply. Any idea how many of these models were produced? What do you think the value of a these boats might be.
I know thats a difficult question. But a range of value in your opinion or anyone else who wants to chime in. So your boat didn't have original motors when you got it? What were the original spec motors for this boat? What options were offered? Mine has a sink and tackle drawer station behind the Port helm seat. Not sure if that was standard or not? I've only had the boat for a few weeks and still trying to get to know it. Any idea on fuel burn with the 165 HP's I have?

Chris Havener · Post by **Chris Havener** » Oct 5th, '17, 20:24

Mike
The only thing I can say for sure about the value of these boats is it is a lot less than we put into them. Myself I do it because of the enjoyment I get from the project phase to completion and using the boat.
I believe our inboard model boats came with the 165 hp engines. I have seen the 26 convertibles in outboard and I/O models. I am not sure how many were made, I am a new enthusiast to the smaller Berts.
Personally I wanted a day boat-fishing boat and looked at a lot of boats before getting my 26. I think I went for the older Bert because I am kind of a traditionalist, like quality, and don't mind breaking with tradition to make this classic a better performer than it was originally.
Thanks
chris

Reel Grace · Post by **Reel Grace** » Oct 18th, '17, 02:55

Thanks for all the info. I've decided to sell the boat. It's too much boat for my 80 year old father handle.
He wants a 22 foot outboard. So it's available. Make offer.

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Oct 18th, '17, 19:43

Chris

You may want to post a sale notice in the for Sale section.

Chris Havener · Post by **Chris Havener** » Oct 22nd, '17, 08:49

Tony
Im not selling, this is the other new member with a 26.
Chris

Chris Havener · Post by **Chris Havener** » Nov 10th, '17, 10:21

Hello
So now I have my 26 out of the water for the winter and am starting the repower for 4.3 Vortec's to 5.7. The 4.3"s are good running take outs if anyone is interested in them I am asking $650.00 each, both standard rotation.
Also thinking about rebuilding the velvet drives, any suggestions on a good rebuilder for them.
Thanks
Chris

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Nov 10th, '17, 23:39

Chris

Here in NJ they usually go to a place like Mack Boring who is a major distributor out here. If you have someone like that out your way give them a try.

Chris Havener · Post by **Chris Havener** » Nov 13th, '17, 12:31

Hello
I have been looking into rebuilding my 5000 series Velvet drives while I have them out for repower. The cost just for clutches, gaskets, bearings is going to be close to 3K. I can buy a new set of ZF transmissions for about $3500.00. Seems like I would be better off with the new ones, anybody had any experience with the the ZF's.
Chris

Reel Grace · Post by **Reel Grace** » Nov 15th, '17, 05:56

Hello Chris,

Where did you get your 5.7's ?
I'm considering rebuilding my original 165 HP or repowerinng or just selling the boat.
The 165 HP motors are fine, I just like a little more power.
The more I use the Bertram 26, the more I really like it.
I have a Grady 'white also but like the big ride of the Bertram. Did you get the carb or electronic fuel injected model 5.7's ?
Just curious which and why.

Michael

Chris Havener · Post by **Chris Havener** » Nov 15th, '17, 10:36

Michael
I am getting them from Michigan motors, its the 5.7 complete engine package carburated . They are $8150.00 each, they offer a little discount for buying 2 engines. I am not getting the closed cooling upgrade, Im in fresh water.
Then I found new ZF 63A gears for $2500.00 each from Federal Marine Transmissions.
Chris

scot · Post by **scot** » Nov 15th, '17, 18:13

4.3 Vortec's to 5.7. The 4.3"s are good running take outs if anyone is interested in them I am asking $650.00 each,

Double the price and post them on a jeep board LOL. Try "pirate4x4" I bet they are gone in a day or 2. Jeepers love the GM4.3 V6. Simple, Chevy bell pattern, just the right size and power for older CJs.

Good luck

Chris Havener · Post by **Chris Havener** » Nov 16th, '17, 09:48

Scott
Good idea !
Chris

farmer · Post by **farmer** » Nov 16th, '17, 23:08

Just can't understand why double 4.3s aren't plenty? Checked my 25 Saturday runs 21 mph at 2500rpm and 31 mph at 3600. With a single screw 383. Are 26s that much heavier?

CamB25 · Post by **CamB25** » Nov 17th, '17, 08:58

Blood stains, speed kills
Fast cars, cheap thrills
Rich girls, fine wine
I've lost my sense, I've lost control, I'm lost my mind…

Age test: name the band and the album

Lars · Post by **Lars** » Nov 17th, '17, 09:38

Cam goes punk!
Guess we are the same age.

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » Nov 17th, '17, 10:58

Punk and painted Orange...

CamB25 · Post by **CamB25** » Nov 17th, '17, 19:15

No stage diving on this board....
Yannis is getting warm

Reel Grace · Post by **Reel Grace** » Nov 18th, '17, 06:18

Chris,

Those are the same motors I'm considering from Michigan Motors.
I'm in salt water so I would be getting the fresh water cooling option.
Would your current transmission, shafts and props work with the new motors or doing you have to change everything out also?
I have the Borg Warner 1:56 transmissions, hope I wouldn't have to change them.'
Im hoping for a simple drop in motor.
What do you think its going to cost in labor to have the swap completed?
I'm anxious to hear about the new performance of the boat.
When will you be finished and have the boat back in the water?

Michael

Reel Grace · Post by **Reel Grace** » Nov 18th, '17, 17:56

Chris,

Just curious, why didn't you choose the 383 stroker engine?

My current motors are one Right Hand and one Left Hand rotation.

What are yours?

Michael

Chris Havener · Post by **Chris Havener** » Nov 21st, '17, 10:56

Michael
I think the 5.7's would be an easier fit up.
Both my motors are standard LH rotation.
Chris

Chris Havener · Post by **Chris Havener** » Nov 25th, '17, 20:27

Hi
I am in process of stripping my 26 Convertable down for paint. I was going to remove the window frame to sand blast it, I was going to use walnut shell media. I planned to do the job without removing the glass, leave the side windows in and cover them and front windows in their frame and cover them as well to protect from blasting. My concern is will the frame come off the boat and stay together, not completely fall apart. It looks like it should but I have not removed one before.
Chris

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Nov 25th, '17, 23:48

Chris the should but if you are taking them out why not follow Capt Pat's instructions on building new frames and be done with it.

The curved windows have an inside piece and outside piece. The side should come out in one piece. If you decide to build new frames, dump the sliding side windows and go one piece.

Chris Havener · Post by **Chris Havener** » Nov 26th, '17, 08:54

Tony
Maybe new frames, but if these come off ok I will save them, they are in pretty good condition but somebody brush painted them before and I want to strip and spray them.
Chris

Chris Havener · Post by **Chris Havener** » Dec 18th, '17, 11:01

Finally had some time to figure out posting photos to drop box. I want to show pictures of my repower and paint on my 26 Convertable I am doing this winter. I will start with before

https://www.dropbox.com/s/oywhns8n64z5e ... 1.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/izfzrc57b0xug ... 2.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/sbk25cxoldtvj ... 3.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/2vkyqyaxvd95p ... 4.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ll9rk6qrodeoa ... 5.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/zuanxsgv6swme ... 6.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fbj7gm3gjp0gz ... 7.jpg?dl=0

Chris Havener · Post by **Chris Havener** » Dec 18th, '17, 14:25

4.3's coming out. Replacing with 5.7's and ZF 63 A's
https://www.dropbox.com/s/eg9h9678y2c09 ... 9.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ssafrp5cfvaoo ... 9.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/b2lt14tn9bnb3 ... 4.JPG?dl=0

Chris Havener · Post by **Chris Havener** » Dec 18th, '17, 14:31

Removed Hardtop and windshield. I am going to blast the windshield frame using walnut shells for media. I plan to paint the hull FLY, the topside White, top of hardtop white, underside of hardtop FLY. I am contemplating painting the hardtop frame white also, but not sure yet. Also am not sure if I am going to leave the bow rail off or reinstall it.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/xrbbmamp5pli7 ... 1.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/modmhd3zc7q0p ... 9.JPG?dl=0

Chris Havener · Post by **Chris Havener** » Dec 18th, '17, 14:35

I put it up on my flatbed and have it ready to blast the bottom. I am using walnut shell media here to, I just want to remove the bottom paint and not too much of the barrier coat. I am doing this because I will change the bottom color to white.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tyctdkwoyn1op ... 6.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/nzg89t46hspiv ... 7.JPG?dl=0

Chris Havener · Post by **Chris Havener** » Dec 19th, '17, 17:17

Nice weather outside today so I sandblasted my bottom. It took about 4 hours. I have it down to the barrier coat now. Opened up some blisters but not to bad for a 35 year old boat.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/mqyg05gfsxpxo ... 1.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gc3ytomfqfgut ... 1.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ogvgfgc19gkth ... 1.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7r7te41blzdz1 ... 0.JPG?dl=0

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Dec 19th, '17, 21:32

Looks like you did that yourself. Is that correct?

I would have thought the walnut shells would have been just as aggressive as sand. I am told that even a soda blast will cut into the barrier coat.

Chris Havener · Post by **Chris Havener** » Dec 19th, '17, 22:44

I did the blasting myself.
Using walnut shell media is very slow compared to say slag, but it doesn't cut into the barrier coat
I will add a few more coats of barrier coat before bottom paint though
Chris

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » Dec 20th, '17, 02:13

The more at look at her, the more I realize how beautiful the 26 is.

I wonder why Bertram made both the 25 and the 26.Are they any dissimilar? What was the point to make two sizes so close?

By the way, not that it is of any particular importance, I would personally not touch the window; too much work...for what reason, it looks perfect to me!
What I would do though, is to change both outside seats with something more comfy and more marine looking; those old fashioned seats look a bit like tailgate/pic-nic type of seats to me...,but then again, degustibus et decoloribus non disputantum est !
Enjoy !

Chris Havener · Post by **Chris Havener** » Dec 20th, '17, 10:34

Yannis
I need to strip and paint the window frame because it was brush painted by the P.O. I am a spray guy.
One difference between the 25 and 26 is the fore deck shape, the 25 seems to be flatter. I have seen quite a few photo's of 25's with out bow rails and they look nice, but I have not seen a 26 without them, I was thinking about leaving mine off but am not sure yet.
Chris

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » Dec 20th, '17, 16:15

Chris,

It all depends on if and how often you visit the bow.
In the Med it is inconceivable to have a boat without rails, given ALL moorings entail either an anchor drop, or tying the bow to the dock, therefore frequent visits to the bow. Let alone the mixups with other boat lines, anchors or even boats.
Now add to this the occasional humidity or water that render the bow slippery and you have all the ingredients for an unpleasant surprise. Rails also help in fending boat off another boat by pushing or pulling on it, as well as hanging fenders for protection while in a port.
I wouldnt even consider it ugly or bothersome, so why not have it.
Unless you dont like it or dont need it, so you can shave off a few kilos of extra weight forward which is good.

Chris Havener · Post by **Chris Havener** » Dec 20th, '17, 22:39

During blasting I opened up a few weak spots in the hollow strakes. Captpatrick's thread on how to repair these strakes I found very enlightening.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5lkohgpjspy95 ... 2.JPG?dl=0
Chris

Chris Havener · Post by **Chris Havener** » Dec 25th, '17, 13:54

I am roughing in the new gears. Everything needs to be moved aft 6 inches due to the extra length of the 5.7's and the ZF's are a little longer than the Borg Warners as well.
I and thinking about making new mounts from aluminum angle an through bolting them in the stringers and then bolting the gear mounts to them instead of lag bolting them like they were. Any thought on this, is it worth the trouble.
Right now everything is loose including the struts, after i get everything in alignment I will bed the struts in epoxy, set the mounts then will be ready for engines. The pipe on the trans shafts represent the engine crank shaft, so I will be able to have it come out in the same position as my old engines, helps speed things up by eliminating having to re figure height clearances.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hfaeu62gftqrm ... 1.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ho87ald6w3tka ... 2.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/9s3txl1lmk2lu ... 0.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/61kojxqi2gep2 ... 3.JPG?dl=0

Chris Havener · Post by **Chris Havener** » Jan 7th, '18, 20:50

I found a way to save 1" in length on my repower, my velvet drives have drive savers on them, I won't reuse them, they are the orange colored ones made by Globe, $300.00 for the pair if someone wants them.
Chris

Chris Havener · Post by **Chris Havener** » Jan 27th, '18, 21:48

Finally got my engines,5.7's Mercs from Michigan Motorz.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/cfba5i8zkfz4u ... 7.JPG?dl=0

Chris Havener · Post by **Chris Havener** » Jan 27th, '18, 21:50

Transmissions mounted

https://www.dropbox.com/s/mioup8qyqeg2n ... d.JPG?dl=0

Chris Havener · Post by **Chris Havener** » Jan 27th, '18, 22:00

Right now my gears are mounted where they need to be, my hold up is I have to decide if I am going to change out my shaft logs due to pretty tight clearance, about 1/8" when the shaft is centered in the log. The boat originally has 1" shafts and I changed to 1 1/4" , new shafts and struts. Any advice on this, leave them alone, go with new brass thru hull logs, or new shaft tubes. Can tubes be installed into the pockets in the hull or would they need to be cut out and made flat.
Chris

https://www.dropbox.com/s/nvmgm1vacl9jf ... e.JPG?dl=0

DanielM · Post by **DanielM** » Jan 27th, '18, 23:43

Chris,

Looks like you’re moving on with it. It will be a good looking boat when you get done.

Did you build the boat stands with the heavy casters you have under the boat on the flat bed, or did you purchase them? Do you think they would be mobile enough to move a boat around on a good quality cement shop floor? I have my boat on blocks in my shop and it would be useful to be able to re-position in the shop every now and then.

Danny

Chris Havener · Post by **Chris Havener** » Jan 28th, '18, 08:44

Danny
I bought the dollies at an auction from a yard that went bankrupt. They are rated a 5000 pounds each, I got 5 of them and a set of yard arms at the sale, really lucky.
I can move the boat on concrete easily with 2 of them.
Chris