Battery Boxes needed?

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John F.
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Battery Boxes needed?

Post by John F. »

Crows Nest has Detroit Diesels, and I plan on cleaning up the engine compartments. I plan on moving the batteries from the starboard side to the port to correct the list I got when I pulled the genny out. The batteries (Group 31s) will be mounted on a shelf up against the chine. Do I need battery boxes? Or can I just mount the batteries on the shelf using good hold downs? I'd rather not have them in boxes. I use regular lead-acid batteries.

Thanks,

John
1968 B20 Moppie - Hull # 201-937
1969 B31 FBC - Hull # 315-881 (sold)
1977 B31 FBC - Hull # BERG1652M77J (sold)
Stephan
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Re: Battery Boxes needed?

Post by Stephan »

John-
I'm not sure if it proper but when I moved my batteries to the bilge (to correct a list when the gas tank was low) 2 seasons ago I used trays to hold them in place.
Image
I am careful to have covers over both the positive and negative posts though I believe the requirement is just the positive posts.
Best,
Stephan
Possunt quia posse videntur
SteveM
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Location: Man-O-War Cay, Bahamas

Re: Battery Boxes needed?

Post by SteveM »

I was just thinking about the same question. Looking forward to others response.

I have plastic boxes now.

I think the boxes are good at keeping the terminals isolated from the elements. Probably their main benefit over a tray or bracket.
Steve Marinak
Duchess - 1973 Sportfisherman
Tony Meola
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Re: Battery Boxes needed?

Post by Tony Meola »

You can use hold down trays as long as you cover the positive terminal. Personally I would build a new box out of Azek. I am considering it. Protects the terminals and the batteries from any accidental dropping of tools.
1975 FBC BERG1467-315
Yannis
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Re: Battery Boxes needed?

Post by Yannis »

There was a 2cm tall wooden frame on both motors’outboard sides, when I bought my boat, into each of which I fitted two batteries. Just a frame to keep them from sliding.
I then screwed two stainless upside down U shaped strap fasteners, 1 cm out from each battery’s long side bottom, with tie down straps for each battery (total of 4 straps and 8 u’s). They’re sitting there 5 years now and they look like they need nothing more. The straps I had them custom made for my needs (length, width AND thickness) at a store specializing in just these kind of things.
1973 B28 FBC/2007 4LHA STP's - "Phantom Duck" - Hull "BER 00794 1172"
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bob lico
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Location: sayville,long island

Re: Battery Boxes needed?

Post by bob lico »

totally enclosed box made of Azak pvc board 3/4" thick use rabbit joints on courners and datto on bottom glue with pvc glue and 3 -2 1/2" SS screws on each corner. Good for a thousand years----------avoid putting any metal battery boxes below deck
capt.bob lico
bero13010473
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John F.
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Re: Battery Boxes needed?

Post by John F. »

Thanks.
1968 B20 Moppie - Hull # 201-937
1969 B31 FBC - Hull # 315-881 (sold)
1977 B31 FBC - Hull # BERG1652M77J (sold)
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bob lico
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Joined: Jun 29th, '06, 19:22
Location: sayville,long island

Re: Battery Boxes needed?

Post by bob lico »

john unlike making furniture you can get a eight foot plant of azak and run all sides in one shot. set guide on table saw to 3/4" and datto blade height to 3/8" and run all boards thru you don`t have to worry about the datto showing on end view edges. the bottom will be 3/4" fitted in the datto sides and ends. the top is rabbited to drop in place with 3/8" rabbit joint.very easy job.
capt.bob lico
bero13010473
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