Bilge pump failure
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Bilge pump failure
Last year my aft bilge pump was not working...or, at least, it was not working properly.
As I'm getting ready for this season, I decided to check on that pump; I opened the aft middle hatch, stretched my arm down in the bilge and lifted the pump's floater, it went click and the pump worked alright for a few seconds, then I released it and tried again. This second time, and all consecutive times, the floater still went click but the pump failed to work.
The switch up on the bridge was at auto, it didn't occur to me to switch to manual and check again.
Can anyone give me any hints on what this failure may be, before I go out and use my credit card?
Thanks.
As I'm getting ready for this season, I decided to check on that pump; I opened the aft middle hatch, stretched my arm down in the bilge and lifted the pump's floater, it went click and the pump worked alright for a few seconds, then I released it and tried again. This second time, and all consecutive times, the floater still went click but the pump failed to work.
The switch up on the bridge was at auto, it didn't occur to me to switch to manual and check again.
Can anyone give me any hints on what this failure may be, before I go out and use my credit card?
Thanks.
1973 B28 FBC/2007 4LHA STP's - "Phantom Duck" - Hull "BER 00794 1172"
Re: Bilge pump failure
Sounds to me like maybe you have some crud around the impeller... Hair is often a culprit... Especially if you've had long haired people on board... Some pumps are a pressure fit into their base... If you pull, the pump should come off the base... The impeller would be on the bottom... If you're not sure post a picture of the pump and somebody will tell you how to check...Yannis wrote:Last year my aft bilge pump was not working...or, at least, it was not working properly.
As I'm getting ready for this season, I decided to check on that pump; I opened the aft middle hatch, stretched my arm down in the bilge and lifted the pump's floater, it went click and the pump worked alright for a few seconds, then I released it and tried again. This second time, and all consecutive times, the floater still went click but the pump failed to work.
The switch up on the bridge was at auto, it didn't occur to me to switch to manual and check again.
Can anyone give me any hints on what this failure may be, before I go out and use my credit card?
Thanks.
Re: Bilge pump failure
Thanks Nav,
I know how to check and I will.Only the tiller arm is somehow in the way...where is that monkey...
I'm afraid of some sort of electrical problem, my electrician just finished and left and I doubt he would come back just for this, during this period...
Lesson: Shave all and everyone before they come onboard!!
I know how to check and I will.Only the tiller arm is somehow in the way...where is that monkey...
I'm afraid of some sort of electrical problem, my electrician just finished and left and I doubt he would come back just for this, during this period...
Lesson: Shave all and everyone before they come onboard!!
1973 B28 FBC/2007 4LHA STP's - "Phantom Duck" - Hull "BER 00794 1172"
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Re: Bilge pump failure
Yannis wrote:Thanks Nav,
I know how to check and I will.Only the tiller arm is somehow in the way...where is that monkey...
I'm afraid of some sort of electrical problem, my electrician just finished and left and I doubt he would come back just for this, during this period...
Lesson: Shave all and everyone before they come onboard!!
Yannis
I doubt it is an electrical failure if it is clicking. Either a:
1) clogged pump
2) Bad pump
3) Bad float.
1975 FBC BERG1467-315
Re: Bilge pump failure
Tony,
What I don't know is IF the float clicks inherently, irrespective of whether it's good or bad, like a bad switch that still clicks but doesn't make contact.
I may add that I prefer an electrical failure because it costs little; I can even prefer a bad float. But a bad pump is bad news to my pocket!
Thanks, I will have to go down and kneel down a bit...
What I don't know is IF the float clicks inherently, irrespective of whether it's good or bad, like a bad switch that still clicks but doesn't make contact.
I may add that I prefer an electrical failure because it costs little; I can even prefer a bad float. But a bad pump is bad news to my pocket!
Thanks, I will have to go down and kneel down a bit...
1973 B28 FBC/2007 4LHA STP's - "Phantom Duck" - Hull "BER 00794 1172"
Re: Bilge pump failure
Today was bilge day. How lovely does this sound, right?
I opened the pump and found crud (petrified sand, hair, grease, you name it), removed all of it, kicked up the float and it starts! Excellent.., two seconds later it wouldn't start again...
Opened the electric box that protects the wire connections, moved the cables a bit... hop! it starts again and stops and starts, ha, ha you silly connections.
I cut the old connection and made new connections... I'm a happy captain.
Took me an hour, excruciatingly uncomfortable position, called it a million names - if someone was passing by they could freak out - I have to make a chiropractor appointment, but I'm happy.
I opened the pump and found crud (petrified sand, hair, grease, you name it), removed all of it, kicked up the float and it starts! Excellent.., two seconds later it wouldn't start again...
Opened the electric box that protects the wire connections, moved the cables a bit... hop! it starts again and stops and starts, ha, ha you silly connections.
I cut the old connection and made new connections... I'm a happy captain.
Took me an hour, excruciatingly uncomfortable position, called it a million names - if someone was passing by they could freak out - I have to make a chiropractor appointment, but I'm happy.
1973 B28 FBC/2007 4LHA STP's - "Phantom Duck" - Hull "BER 00794 1172"
Re: Bilge pump failure
I gather the box is supposed to provide a waterproof (water resistant) environment for the connection... Personally, for this application I use heatshrink butt connectors, I put some dielectric grease in the connector, I use a specially made for heatshrink terminals crimper and I cover the heat shrink with 2 additional and overlapping pieces of heatshrink... I have yet to find corrosion in any of my bilge pump connectors!...Yannis wrote:Opened the electric box that protects the wire connections, moved the cables a bit... hop! it starts again and stops and starts, ha, ha you silly connections.
Personal rant: why can't these frigging pump manufacturers provide their product with longer wires?!... What would it cost them?!... Another $2.00?!... I'd gladly pay $5.00 more for longer wires!...
Re: Bilge pump failure
Exactly. That's why it took me so long. I use similar waterproof connectors which have grease inside them and you squeeze them with the pliers...only the cables were so short (and slippery) that made for my calling them names !Navatech wrote:why can't these frigging pump manufacturers provide their product with longer wires?!.
As for the box, it's in a position that gets water dropping from the deck...I will have to see how I can protect it better...in my case though it wasn't the water that caused the problem, I think one wire was damaged and was not connecting properly.
1973 B28 FBC/2007 4LHA STP's - "Phantom Duck" - Hull "BER 00794 1172"
Re: Bilge pump failure
Yannis, one exercise of preventive maintenance I practice is using a shop-vac to thoroughly vacuum the bilge of debris, hair, fish scales, etc to reduce possibility of clogged impellers and strainers. I do this every few weeks and am amazed at what comes out. I pulled a live scorpion out one time!
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Re: Bilge pump failure
Yannis
If you can remove the box, a simple way to protect it is to go to the store and get a plastic container with a snap on cover. One that stores food is perfect. Screw that container in place and then put the box in the container and snap on the lid. A $5 US dollar fix.
You will need to re run the wires, I would bring them in from the bottom of the container. If you can't bring them in from the side and use silicone to close up the hole the wires run through.
If you can remove the box, a simple way to protect it is to go to the store and get a plastic container with a snap on cover. One that stores food is perfect. Screw that container in place and then put the box in the container and snap on the lid. A $5 US dollar fix.
You will need to re run the wires, I would bring them in from the bottom of the container. If you can't bring them in from the side and use silicone to close up the hole the wires run through.
1975 FBC BERG1467-315
Re: Bilge pump failure
Thank you Tommy,
All dirt and stuff accumulates while we use the boat, not when the boat is idle in the yard.
So, people come in, shed(!), bring sand, bread crumbs, and then we rinse the deck...all this goes down in the bilge. When the boat is idle, the pumps never work because the boat self drains from the limber drain hole. The boat gets in the water in June, is used constantly (it travels) until September and then it's out in the yard until next season, I never keep the boat idle in the water. Boats here are for vacations only. Once the weather chills and the sea gets cold, the rains start, there is really no point in having the boat in the water anymore. For the few weekends 2-3 in the spring and another 2-3 in early autumn that we MIGHT want to go places with the boat, I usually go with other peoples' boats. After having spent 3-4 months traveling on the boat, I have really very little desire to use the boat in the winter...I prefer my fireplace and red wine...
Tony,
This box I have IS with a snap-on cover and the cables come-in from below. The wire connectors I have are waterproof...and like I said, the problem was rather a bad connection or a damaged wire, not because of humidity. However, I find your idea of a Tupperware very tempting !! I'm trying to think of other possible applications! Hey, I found one: Use one to hold your wallet, phone and stuff while you swim out from anchorage to the taverna on the beach...
All dirt and stuff accumulates while we use the boat, not when the boat is idle in the yard.
So, people come in, shed(!), bring sand, bread crumbs, and then we rinse the deck...all this goes down in the bilge. When the boat is idle, the pumps never work because the boat self drains from the limber drain hole. The boat gets in the water in June, is used constantly (it travels) until September and then it's out in the yard until next season, I never keep the boat idle in the water. Boats here are for vacations only. Once the weather chills and the sea gets cold, the rains start, there is really no point in having the boat in the water anymore. For the few weekends 2-3 in the spring and another 2-3 in early autumn that we MIGHT want to go places with the boat, I usually go with other peoples' boats. After having spent 3-4 months traveling on the boat, I have really very little desire to use the boat in the winter...I prefer my fireplace and red wine...
Tony,
This box I have IS with a snap-on cover and the cables come-in from below. The wire connectors I have are waterproof...and like I said, the problem was rather a bad connection or a damaged wire, not because of humidity. However, I find your idea of a Tupperware very tempting !! I'm trying to think of other possible applications! Hey, I found one: Use one to hold your wallet, phone and stuff while you swim out from anchorage to the taverna on the beach...
1973 B28 FBC/2007 4LHA STP's - "Phantom Duck" - Hull "BER 00794 1172"
Re: Bilge pump failure
Somehow I get the feeling you didn't come up with that application just now... <wink>Yannis wrote:However, I find your idea of a Tupperware very tempting !! I'm trying to think of other possible applications! Hey, I found one: Use one to hold your wallet, phone and stuff while you swim out from anchorage to the taverna on the beach...
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Re: Bilge pump failure
Nav, Tony,
You're right and wrong!
Right, because I do use a plastic box for the transport of sensitive goods over water...wrong, because I had never thought this could be a kitchen utensil like a tupper.
I have seen it though done by others and the sight of it is funny...a tupper with a wallet inside? what else will we see in this world!
This is my dry bag:
You're right and wrong!
Right, because I do use a plastic box for the transport of sensitive goods over water...wrong, because I had never thought this could be a kitchen utensil like a tupper.
I have seen it though done by others and the sight of it is funny...a tupper with a wallet inside? what else will we see in this world!
This is my dry bag:
1973 B28 FBC/2007 4LHA STP's - "Phantom Duck" - Hull "BER 00794 1172"
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- Senior Member
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Re: Bilge pump failure
More likely for someone to pick up your container than one that they think holds a ham sandwich. Of course all bets are off if they are hungry.
1975 FBC BERG1467-315
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