PVC Board for engine box panels

[John F.]

I need to redo the vertical panels that extend down from the inside of the engine boxes. They're about 52" by 20." I'm thinking of using 1/2" PVC board (maybe azek?). What do you think? The 1/2" PVC is pretty flexible, and I want the panels to stay straight. Can I attach some type of stiffener to the back of them? Maybe f'glass "L" from McMaster-carr?

Or should I just use 1/2" ply?

[John Swick]

Hi John,

My only concern would be warp-age (sp?) due to radiant heat of the motors.
Maybe a reflective backing would help?
A spec sheet on the product your planning to use would have some heat resistance stats?
Maybe it's a non-issue?

I've only used PVC foam board for cockpit side panels (it's great for that), but recently have heard of it being used as a coring material in non structural parts??
I don't have enough experience using it to have much of an opinion about that.

Good luck
John

[CaptPatrick]

John,

PVC foam board might not be a good choice for your intended use. I'd stick with 1/2" plywood, with epoxy laminated Formica on both sides. I agree with John S on the heat issue... And would use sound proofing either way to further protect the interior surface from heat.

[John F.]

John/Cap. Patrick-

Thanks.

John

[yardpro]

azek becomes VERY flexable when it gets warm. When out on full sun, it flexes a lot when i step in it... i would not use it in anywhere that gets hot.

[bob lico]

here they are john absolutely perfect after 10 years .they are Azak brand no substitution ! they have sound down on back side and fit into grove on both ends,no screws,fasteners and are remove in a minute.

[Terry Frank]

I used 1/2 starboard. Been there 4 years. No issues yet.

[bob lico]

installed view, notice the way the hinged step keeps panel tight along with floorboard for bottom and 1" by 3" upright on bulkhead for front support,so it is supported on 3 sides and interlocks with engine cover when you lower it in place.perfect no vibration,light and easy to clean with spray- nine -------obviously never rot

[bob lico]

3/4" Azak

[bob lico]

another view john to show front vertical upright that holds panel from moving inwards notice the 3/4" space at bottom for panel to interlock with floorboard to keep panel tight towards engine.panel just pulls straight up to remove with engine cover open.

[John F.]

Thanks for all the pictures and replies. This place is great. Bob, I'm setting up my panels to work like yours--easy to pull up and out. I built them like that on the Anna E., but on Crows Nest you have to take out a whole bunch of screws to get them out. I have a sheet of azek, and I guess now I'll give it a try. I'll post up some pics. when I'm done, but Bob, it won't look like your engine compartment. Crows Nest has big, green, oil-slinging Detroits.

[John F.]

The stringers needed replacing. Made new ones out of 2x3 mahogany






Side panels were pretty bad:



Made new side panels out of azek (thought I'd try it. I already had a sheet):



I decided to redo the back bulkhead, and cut in new windows. I can let you know how NOT to do it. It took a while to get it sort of right:



Also working on the salon door.



When I finish the back bulkhead, the exterior will be pretty much done.

John
When 3/4 assed is good enough

[CamB25]

John,

Looks like nice work to me, and I know who to call if I need to borrow some spring clamps!

Will the Azek board hold screws? I might want to use this material for as a backer for some hull liners.

Love your tag line!

Cam

[bob lico]

azek holds SS self tapping screws quite well.all my electronics are mounted on it under the bridge including auto pilot pump.

john i had to make cabin door 1 1/2" thick in order to have full recess panel both front and back,window also has reveal inside and out.with 1 1/2" thick door you can use "real" SS door hinges (4).real strong with full casing around door for A/C and heat lost.

[John F.]

I finished this a couple of weeks ago. I made plywood patterns for the windows, but haven't gotten them yet and probably won't until I figure out the interior. That's coming along and I'll post some pics soon. Anyway, happy with the finished product. I can lift out the hatches, and the box/step thing I made for the aft hatch, and then with the engine boxes tilted up, I can lift out the side panels for access to more stuff. Thanks for the advice. And, yup, she needs a bath.

[Stephan]

John-
That looks real nice to me. Nice job!
Best,
Stephan
...aiming for 3/4 assed but falling short...

[IRGuy]

Cam...

You asked above about if Azek holds screws well. I use it quite a bit for non structural applications (Thank you Captain Patrick!) and usually back up the screw fastenings with a bond of thickened epoxy. Be sure to pre bore the screw holes, otherwise it is so soft it will distort and spread outboard on both sides of the screw. I also roughen up the smooth surfaces with 180 grit paper so it can get some "tooth" for the epoxy to grab onto. If I am going to paint it so it looks pretty I seal the edges with epoxy and then sand them with 220 grit.