Glue decks down
Moderators: CaptPatrick, mike ohlstein, Bruce
Glue decks down
We are almost there with the engine install and when I put down the decks and 'l' brackets I want to seal them with something like 5200 but not as strong so I can remove them in the future if needed I was thinking 4200….any suggestions?
- CaptPatrick
- Founder/Admin
- Posts: 4161
- Joined: Jun 7th, '06, 14:25
- Location: 834 Scott Dr., LLANO, TX 78643 - 325.248.0809 bertram31@bertram31.com
Re: Glue decks down
As far as I know it only comes in black and I also need to caulk visible seams, does Sitka flex make a product?CaptPatrick wrote:Butyl caulk...
- CaptPatrick
- Founder/Admin
- Posts: 4161
- Joined: Jun 7th, '06, 14:25
- Location: 834 Scott Dr., LLANO, TX 78643 - 325.248.0809 bertram31@bertram31.com
Re: Glue decks down
Br,
Patrick
Molon labe
Patrick
Molon labe
Re: Glue decks down
Hmmmm, I was thinking of the old butyl ribbon tape. I looked up the product and read "Not recommended for use in sealing horizontal decks, patios, driveways or terrace joints where abrasion or physical abuse is encountered. Not recommended for use in window glazing applications or hidden joint details, which require a non-skinning, non-hardening sealant." think it will ok on cockpit sole seams?
- CaptPatrick
- Founder/Admin
- Posts: 4161
- Joined: Jun 7th, '06, 14:25
- Location: 834 Scott Dr., LLANO, TX 78643 - 325.248.0809 bertram31@bertram31.com
Re: Glue decks down
Jimmy,
Are you talking about the 2 exposed longitudinal joints between the 3 piece deck? If so, use a white latex with silicon tile and tub caulk.
Are you talking about the 2 exposed longitudinal joints between the 3 piece deck? If so, use a white latex with silicon tile and tub caulk.
Br,
Patrick
Molon labe
Patrick
Molon labe
Re: Glue decks down
So captain ,what about burying a piece of 200# leader in the joints so they can be easily removed!I had to remove one of mine, thx for the tip
- CaptPatrick
- Founder/Admin
- Posts: 4161
- Joined: Jun 7th, '06, 14:25
- Location: 834 Scott Dr., LLANO, TX 78643 - 325.248.0809 bertram31@bertram31.com
Re: Glue decks down
Marlin,
While that's pretty much a necessity for a 3 piece teak deck, not so much for a fiberglass deck. But still a potential time saver even for fiberglass
While that's pretty much a necessity for a 3 piece teak deck, not so much for a fiberglass deck. But still a potential time saver even for fiberglass
Br,
Patrick
Molon labe
Patrick
Molon labe
Re: Glue decks down
3M UV 4000 .last forever and can be remove easily .i pull up decks to install usless trolling vavles ,only the center piece gets screw down while the port and starboard piece get set in the UV 4000.i also have 4" trough on both port and starboard outside edge for water runoff to scuppers these pieces are also imbeded in the UV.entire deck is removable in short time.
capt.bob lico
bero13010473
bero13010473
Re: Glue decks down
I should also mention the speed shops i am familiar with all use " tubby" which is GE 40 year tub and shower sealant a silicon that is use exclusively for front and rear seal of intake manifold and oil pan rails.used under the harshest conditions of heat and expansion ,contraction as well as oil and water however concerning UV i give the edge to the 3M and if need to remove deck just a dull scraper will start it then just peel off.
capt.bob lico
bero13010473
bero13010473
Re: Glue decks down
I tried Google but GE makes a variety of sealants... Do you have a link or the specific product name?!...bob lico wrote:"tubby" which is GE 40 year tub and shower sealant
Re: Glue decks down
GE silicon are available just about every hardware store as well as Box stores.the best Has gold label and states for tub and shower .this product has taken over the use of black Permatex brand silicon for automotive engine assembly.
capt.bob lico
bero13010473
bero13010473
Re: Glue decks down
I've Googled for "GE silicone tub and shower gold" and couldn't see anything relevant... Sorry to trouble you but I'm interested in giving this a try...bob lico wrote:GE silicon are available just about every hardware store as well as Box stores.the best Has gold label and states for tub and shower .this product has taken over the use of black Permatex brand silicon for automotive engine assembly.
- CaptPatrick
- Founder/Admin
- Posts: 4161
- Joined: Jun 7th, '06, 14:25
- Location: 834 Scott Dr., LLANO, TX 78643 - 325.248.0809 bertram31@bertram31.com
Re: Glue decks down
I have been doing extensive work under the deck during this past winter season ( water tanks, mufflers,...) and I'm not finished yet.
So, when this past summer arrived, I placed the deck back in but neither screwed it down nor applied any silicone sealant around it; I just put it back in place so it would be easier to remove it again to continue what needs to be done. My technician insisted I seal the deck down because this would prevent water from sipping through underneath. I do not (and cannot due to very limited space) have a specific closed raw water tank that would collect dripping water from the 5 lower deck hatches' rims and throw it overboard, so I thought what's the point to seal the deck if the hatches cannot be sealed. So, all water goes down to the bilge and is disposed of by means of the 2 bilge pumps. He also mentioned that by sealing the deck I would avoid unnecessary vibrations.
How bad would it be to give up deck sealing altogether and even permanently seal the screw holes with gel so they are not even visible? The deck is so heavy that allows very little water around it, I could perhaps consider some sort of thick foam tape that would make it sit comfortably in its place. As for vibration, I didn't notice anything.
So, when this past summer arrived, I placed the deck back in but neither screwed it down nor applied any silicone sealant around it; I just put it back in place so it would be easier to remove it again to continue what needs to be done. My technician insisted I seal the deck down because this would prevent water from sipping through underneath. I do not (and cannot due to very limited space) have a specific closed raw water tank that would collect dripping water from the 5 lower deck hatches' rims and throw it overboard, so I thought what's the point to seal the deck if the hatches cannot be sealed. So, all water goes down to the bilge and is disposed of by means of the 2 bilge pumps. He also mentioned that by sealing the deck I would avoid unnecessary vibrations.
How bad would it be to give up deck sealing altogether and even permanently seal the screw holes with gel so they are not even visible? The deck is so heavy that allows very little water around it, I could perhaps consider some sort of thick foam tape that would make it sit comfortably in its place. As for vibration, I didn't notice anything.
1973 B28 FBC/2007 4LHA STP's - "Phantom Duck" - Hull "BER 00794 1172"
Re: Glue decks down
The center deck is screwed down every 6" on both sides because it holds the fighting chair the outside edges of centerdeck are rabbited when port and starboard with opposite rabbit joint lay over center screws disapear.you put 3M UV 4000 on this joint and outside joint get 3m only no screws.you cannot go with the theory " what the hell if salt water leaks thru deck" because if the salt water drip on gears,wash down,baitwell pump, steering hydralic cylinders they will be destroyed.
capt.bob lico
bero13010473
bero13010473
Re: Glue decks down
Yannis,
I pulled my deck in 2005 when I purchased my 28. I just bought a tube of 4000 a few weeks ago but have not sealed it yet. So, I have been using the boat with the cockpit held in place by gravity only for many years. The only issue is what Bob mentioned. You may get some dripping on the back of the transmission and coupler. The likely cause of my transmission leak from a previous post was due to the water causing rust on some crush washers. If you coat suspect areas with CX Heavy you can go for years with no adverse affects. I too have thought about filling all the screw holes and only using sealant to keep it in place/dry.
If you have trim tab pump or other electrical items below deck that should be part of your consideration as well. All my stuff is mounted in cabin where it is always dry.
I pulled my deck in 2005 when I purchased my 28. I just bought a tube of 4000 a few weeks ago but have not sealed it yet. So, I have been using the boat with the cockpit held in place by gravity only for many years. The only issue is what Bob mentioned. You may get some dripping on the back of the transmission and coupler. The likely cause of my transmission leak from a previous post was due to the water causing rust on some crush washers. If you coat suspect areas with CX Heavy you can go for years with no adverse affects. I too have thought about filling all the screw holes and only using sealant to keep it in place/dry.
If you have trim tab pump or other electrical items below deck that should be part of your consideration as well. All my stuff is mounted in cabin where it is always dry.
Re: Glue decks down
I have a bit of a hard time to understand Captain Lico's way of expressing himself, but I got the message.
Yes Kevin, I agree. I think though that the foamy tape could do a good sealing job. This heavy mother needs to be pulled out every year, I can find more amusement than blade cutting the silicone seal, rub with alcohol etc. And, as I said previously, the water can always sip through the hatches that cannot be sealed. Just think about it; you've been cruising around with no seal for almost 10 years.
Yes Kevin, I agree. I think though that the foamy tape could do a good sealing job. This heavy mother needs to be pulled out every year, I can find more amusement than blade cutting the silicone seal, rub with alcohol etc. And, as I said previously, the water can always sip through the hatches that cannot be sealed. Just think about it; you've been cruising around with no seal for almost 10 years.
1973 B28 FBC/2007 4LHA STP's - "Phantom Duck" - Hull "BER 00794 1172"
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot] and 213 guests