calling capt. Pat

[Russ Pagels]

Hey Capt. Pat have any ideas on how to repair this? Russ

[Navatech]

I'd say epoxy...

[Russ Pagels]

What about 5200?

[CaptPatrick]

Russ,

Nav's right... Use epoxy. First, scrape and clean the old cured resin from both the wood and fiberglass. Use a sharp tool, (triangular scraper, chisel point, etc), to scratch up the fiberglass for added bonding strength. Carefully do the same for wood, trying not to beak it more. Mask off anything that you don't want epoxy on...

Lightly coat both bonding surfaces with un-thickened epoxy, wipe off any excess epoxy and allow it to cure until it's no longer fluid, still sticky. Mix up another small batch of thickened epoxy and lightly over coat the two bonding surfaces. Smear a very little on the four broke edges of the wood. Work the broken piece back into place, clean up any excess epoxy before it sets up. Lay a piece of waxed paper over the repair and carefully put a heavy weight on it until cured.

You could use small two part squeeze tubes for this job. One just clear epoxy for the prime and something like JB weld for the thickened epoxy...

[Russ Pagels]

Thank you capt. Pat and Nav. the next pictures show the other problem. the covering boards on the strb side have lifted. so there will be a difference in height. how can I get the right amount of epoxy under the covering boards and when I clamp it down do I risk cracking them ? the white wedge was not jammed in, was only used to show the space between the covering boards and the fiberglass. any help would be greatly appreciated.. thanks Russ

[Russ Pagels]

[Russ Pagels]

[jspiezio]

Russ-
Nothing that enough weight won't push down!

When you open the hatch to your livewell, is there a lip that extends outboard and under the covering board?

[CaptPatrick]

Russ,

That complicates things greatly...

That lifted cap board is going to be almost impossible to clean under and prep. Use a broken hacksaw blade to scrape and dig around under the teak as good as possible. Try to beak the blade so that hooks a tiny amount at the tip, flip it from one side to the other to clean and rough up both the teak and the fiberglass. Once as you've done as much as possible, flood and flush out the gap with denatured alcohol. Use a large syringe or squeeze bottle fitted with a fine nozzle. the liquid will flush out debris and the alcohol will combine with any water moisture and promote better drying. Epoxy will not stick to a wet surface.

Also use a syringe to apply the epoxy. Prep and epoxy both pieces at the same time, cover the wood with waxed paper and scrap wood blocks and clamp down. Don't clamp too tight, you want about 1/16" of thickened epoxy to stay under the wood.

[Russ Pagels]

Thanks Pat,that was what I have been doing all afternoon . Did not think of the alcohol, now where does one get syringes? thanks again for your help...Russ

[jspiezio]

grainger has them Russ

[CaptPatrick]

Any place that sells West System epoxy will have syringes. Also look for squeeze bottles like you'd use for mustard, mayo, etc at the grocery store, or bulb syringes at the drugstore...

[mike ohlstein]

You can use a turkey baster.

[Russ Pagels]

not perfect but nether am I, the product mixes the A and B in the nozzle, works well

[Navatech]

Looks very good... Nothing to be ashamed of...