I had to remove the severely gatored gel coat form the fore deck. This was done last summer. I have kept the fore deck covered to mitigate the UV damage. I lifted the tarp the other day and found the raw glass somewhat fuzzy. I have been considering mixing a VERY thinned epoxy mix and brushing on a layer to lay the glass fibers down prior to fairing. It this a good idea?? Are there other options, or can I go directly to fairing? Maybe a paint primer coat prior to fairing?
Thanks
Fuzzy raw glass Q:
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- scot
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Fuzzy raw glass Q:
Scot
1969 Bertram 25 "Roly Poly"
she'll float one of these days.. no really it will :-0
1969 Bertram 25 "Roly Poly"
she'll float one of these days.. no really it will :-0
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Re: Fuzzy raw glass Q:
Scot,
Roll on a couple coats of Awlgrip 545 primer, sand lightly, and you're good to go for whatever comes next...
Roll on a couple coats of Awlgrip 545 primer, sand lightly, and you're good to go for whatever comes next...
Br,
Patrick
Molon labe
Patrick
Molon labe
- scot
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Re: Fuzzy raw glass Q:
Thanks Capt. I have been using Interlux Pre-cote primer (grey) with good results, and top coating with single part Interlux Brightsides.. I assume the Pre-Cote will work for this application as well? Although not the quality of Awlgrip.
Scot
1969 Bertram 25 "Roly Poly"
she'll float one of these days.. no really it will :-0
1969 Bertram 25 "Roly Poly"
she'll float one of these days.. no really it will :-0
- CaptPatrick
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- Joined: Jun 7th, '06, 14:25
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Re: Fuzzy raw glass Q:
Scot,
Hard to say, I've never used the Pre-coat primer. Their general description doesn't give much of a clue, but their product data sheet says that each coat has to be sanded before adding the next coat. Also they list a specific proceedure for painting Pre-coat over raw fiberglass.
Data sheet also says:
Hard to say, I've never used the Pre-coat primer. Their general description doesn't give much of a clue, but their product data sheet says that each coat has to be sanded before adding the next coat. Also they list a specific proceedure for painting Pre-coat over raw fiberglass.
Data sheet also says:
Do not apply over clear epoxy such as Epiglass Epoxy. For epoxy
resin, use Epoxy Primekote Y404 as primer following proper preparation to the epoxy resin.
Br,
Patrick
Molon labe
Patrick
Molon labe
Re: Fuzzy raw glass Q:
Scot-
I've used the one-part Interlux primer over epoxy and I haven't had a problem (yet?). I've used Interlux Brightsides and Toplac a lot, and have really liked the results. I used Interlux PrimeKote and Perfection (2-part) for the first time in painting Crows Nest's engine boxes, deck, and now flybridge. The 2-part is just as easy to use as the 1-part. Only downside with the 2-part is that if you don't estimate well, you waste whatever you have left over. The Perfection is even a little easier for me to use than the Brightsides. With the Brightsides, I found that I got the best results with a foam roller and tipping with a foam brush. With the Perfection, you can skip the tipping part. It lays down nicely without it. So, my 2 cents is to think about trying the Primekote/Perfection, although I have no complaints with Prekote/Brightsides. Prekote fills better than Primekote. Good luck.'
John
I've used the one-part Interlux primer over epoxy and I haven't had a problem (yet?). I've used Interlux Brightsides and Toplac a lot, and have really liked the results. I used Interlux PrimeKote and Perfection (2-part) for the first time in painting Crows Nest's engine boxes, deck, and now flybridge. The 2-part is just as easy to use as the 1-part. Only downside with the 2-part is that if you don't estimate well, you waste whatever you have left over. The Perfection is even a little easier for me to use than the Brightsides. With the Brightsides, I found that I got the best results with a foam roller and tipping with a foam brush. With the Perfection, you can skip the tipping part. It lays down nicely without it. So, my 2 cents is to think about trying the Primekote/Perfection, although I have no complaints with Prekote/Brightsides. Prekote fills better than Primekote. Good luck.'
John
1968 B20 Moppie - Hull # 201-937
1969 B31 FBC - Hull # 315-881 (sold)
1977 B31 FBC - Hull # BERG1652M77J (sold)
1969 B31 FBC - Hull # 315-881 (sold)
1977 B31 FBC - Hull # BERG1652M77J (sold)
- scot
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Re: Fuzzy raw glass Q:
Thanks Patrick, didn't realize the primer-to-epoxy would make a different.
John> The Perfection lays down well enough with a roller not to need tipping?? The Interlux Brightsides must be a bit thicker (out of the can) and not flow out as well. I may need to try some of the Perfection. I assume durability would be very close between the two paints.
John> The Perfection lays down well enough with a roller not to need tipping?? The Interlux Brightsides must be a bit thicker (out of the can) and not flow out as well. I may need to try some of the Perfection. I assume durability would be very close between the two paints.
Scot
1969 Bertram 25 "Roly Poly"
she'll float one of these days.. no really it will :-0
1969 Bertram 25 "Roly Poly"
she'll float one of these days.. no really it will :-0
Re: Fuzzy raw glass Q:
Interlux doesn't recommend tipping with Perfection, and when I've tried it, the results were about the same. My experience with Brightsides is that it has to be tipped to look good. You cannot use any of the two-parts (Primekote or Perfection) over a 1-part like PreKote or Brightsides. The Perfection is supposed to be considerably more durable than Brightsides. Brightsides has held up really well for me. I can't vouch for Perfection--I'm using it for the first time.
1968 B20 Moppie - Hull # 201-937
1969 B31 FBC - Hull # 315-881 (sold)
1977 B31 FBC - Hull # BERG1652M77J (sold)
1969 B31 FBC - Hull # 315-881 (sold)
1977 B31 FBC - Hull # BERG1652M77J (sold)
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