bertram31.com

Just an update on my 1983 Bertram 26 tank reline project.
I've decided against an aluminum tank because of the unknown effect of e-15 ethanol. I couldn't find a fabricator in my area to make me a SS tank so that leaves relining my existing tank. I got an estimate from a fiberglass fabricator to do the work and he quoted me $3000 which seemed like alot. .
I've removed the tank from the boat and cut the tank about 2 inches from the top. Someone told me this was wrong but my thinking was that after I put the tank together, I would have a continuous flat surface to resin on some fiberglass tape. I then ground out the top rivets that held the baffles in place and removed the top. After more rivet grinding, I removed the baffles. I now have a clean gelcoated smooth interior. The next step is to remove the gelcoat skin. Some people have just ground out the gelcoat manually to find a clean surface that will adhere to the new resins but I'm going to try something different. I talked to my local sandblasting expert and he says he can cafefully sandblast most of the gelcoat off leaving me to do the final grinding and touch up.
I plan on putting on a couple of layers of vinylester and cloth (or mat)
to completely cover the interior. I will then glass in the baffles and cover them also. Final step for the inside will probably be an additional barrier coat like LBI's 555 flake barrier coat.
I then plan to put a thickened bead of vinylester on the seam and rejoin the 2 tank parts. Finally I plan to add a couple a layers of glass around that seam for strength.I also need to reinforce the rivet slits I made when I ground out the top rivets.
How does my plan sound? Any comments /suggestions will be welcome

Don't know what to say except to wish you lots of luck. All we have read up to now has spoken against the long term chances of success of relining but would love to have you prove them wrong! All the best. Walter

New plan!!!!
After some further thoughts and discussion, I've decided to order a stainless tank from doug at nautic marine welding.
He quoted me $2200 plus shipping. Although I'm confident my procedure will work, the cost of materials and the work involved leads me to think that a new tank is the best route.

Andy

Andy,
I personally think you are making a wise decision. If you go to the B33 site & search, you will find many threads on new tanks. here is one of the threads on my new SS tank install. I reinforced & built up the bed the tank sits in & left channels around the outside edge going to a garboard drain down into the main bilge. we also raised the tank up on pvc strips.

We did two B33's at the same time & making a pattern for the new tank out of 1/2" ply was invaluable in determining clearances & support issues.
Good Luck
Al

One thread on my install
http://www.bertram33.com/forum/topic.as ... hichpage=1

I've just ordered my new SS tank from Doug at Nautic Marine. He told me that the new tank will not require anti-siphon valves. My old tank had 2, 1 per engine fuel line. What changed since 1983?

Also Doug told me I could use auto undercoating to cover the external part of the tank. Anyone have any experience using it? I guess I need to foam it in place per new rules . What does everyone use for the foam?
Anything else I should know/do?


Andy

Hello, I also have an 83 b26 and I keep it in Newport, at the Navy base. I think I may have seen your boat in the bay. Mine has a hard top with a half tower. Anyway I am interested in how hard it was to get the tank out. I have had the deck off for exhaust work, not to bad. I opened the access panel on my tank and was suprised how good it looked inside, so I am going to try to get another year out of it. Got any pictures of the inside of yours? Kevin

I have a 84 Bertram 26.6 Sport Convertable with gas engines. I'm in the process or removing the fiberglas tank. All I can tell you is that It's a bear to get out. We sawed all around the tank where you could rock the tank side to side, however no chance in pulling it up.

My boat has a custom 2000lb davit. We attached the davit to the tank and applied over 500 lbs. of pressure. No luck. The tank appears to be glued to the center hull !

We then proceeded to cut the top of the tank off only to find S.S surge baffles that were rivited and glassed over. Exhausting process. We've giving it up doing it ourselves. Looks like major surgery at the boat yard at $ 100.00/hr.

As far as replacement,I'm having going fo use high grade alumimum with two large inspection covers to observe any degradation. In addition, to remove any water/condensation that may enter the tank,( my boat is kept in the water year round) we're going to build a custom removable strainer tube filled with Polyacrylide. This synthetic polimer will absorb all water from the fuel sustem,hence preventing oxydation/degration of the interior of the tank.

Ray W.
San Francisco, CA

Thats the game plan to now

kevin
I've sent you a PM so we can discuss the work I've done so far. My new tank is ready and will ship after I get back from Costa Rica. I also had a tough time figuring out how to remove the tank after cutting the tabs that were obviously holding the tank in place. I finally called a boatyard in Ma. that does alot of work with Bertrams and they said they use a forklift to yank the tank out. I used a HD floor jack sitting on boards across my gunnels and popped it out. It sits on a plywood board and gooped in place with a large blob of resin . You will need to exert more than 500 lbs of pressure to break the bond. Worst case is that you pull the wood plywood board out with the hull,no big deal. When you see the bottom of my tank, you will see what I mean. It will come out intact with no hull damage.
When I get my new tank , I will match it up against the old tank for dimensional accuracy. I hope its ok. I always worry about measuring things accurately. If everything is ok,I can send you all the photos and dimensional drawings that I sent to the fabricator.

please tell me why you don't take the top off the old tank and just drop the new tank inside of it? Besides loosing some tankage what else?

Sorry for the late reply. I was away.
I looked inside the tank and saw a large number of rivets used to hold the baffles in place. I thought they would be a problem. I had talked to someone who had the tank removed and they said it was easy. It was not easy until I found someone who told me what to do. By that time I was into it and wanted to complete the removal . After I removed the tank I found that it had over 200 rivets holding the baffles in place. Now I'm starting with a clean slate. The boat now has 2 new engines and trannys, a new hardtop enclosue and a new fuel tank.

Andy

I too have a B26, it's the outboard model. I keep it in the Bahamas, god knows where they get their fuel. How do you know when the tank is damaged from bad fuel? I noticed a bunch of junk in the fuel filters last week. Stuff that looked like dirt mostly, but also some floating white bits that looked were about the size of orange juice pulp, it was white, looked like tissue paper. Could someone give me an idea on how to test the fuel or the fuel tank? I would like to bring the boat back to the states at then end of the summer for some work, and if I need to do a fuel tank project I may start thinking into that now for resources, etc. Thanks to everyone for their tips.
Steve

There's a thread on the site on an Ethanol fuel tester that might be of help. Look for it. Since yours is an outboard version, I am assuming the engine(s?) are being fed from the onboard fiberglass tanks. Inboard problems from Ethanol end up as valves getting glued closed after the engines cool down, resulting in bent pushrods when you start up. Gopod luck. Walter

Walter and Patrick, thank you for your quick response. I have ordered a test kit.

Yes they are outboards fed from the internal fiberglass tank. I have older Johnson 175's, Ocean Runners, Ficht, yes, I've heard all the bad reviews. They run well actually. But with the thought of repowering in the next year I wanted to really make sure I am not polluting new engines as that is a considerable expense.

So I am assuming Ethanol in fuel is the only thing that will ruin the fiberglass tanks? If the tester shows up negative for ethanol, than I can assume my tanks are healthy?

Thanks guys.

So I am assuming Ethanol in fuel is the only thing that will ruin the fiberglass tanks? If the tester shows up negative for ethanol, than I can assume my tanks are healthy?

Steve,

Both ethanol & methanol are detrimental to fiberglass tanks. The alcohol tester will not test for methane, but it's pretty doubtful that you would even be getting subjected to methanol... If the alcohol shows negative, you should be in good shape. Almost all of Bahama's gasoline is transported in from Florida suppliers, but probably not required to carry the alcohol additive, unless Bahama has dicated the use of ehanol also.

Br,

Patrick

I'm taking a guess here-The Ethanol usually doesn't transport easily and is usually added at the last stage of distribution. If the fuel to the Bahamas is being shipped there from Florida in large quantities, I would suspect it's getting there without the Ethanol. If you're bringing your boat back to Florida for new power, and if Florida is using the mandated E-10, you'll get filled with it unless you can do a round-trip with your B-26 internal tanks. Walter