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Tank Re-lining (Raybo Marine)

Posted: Jan 3rd, '07, 10:50
by CaptPatrick
Mirrow post from Raybo Marine:
being contacted once again concerning information about tank relining I feel I will share with you all the hours of research that went into the relining process we used.

Please note- I do not wish to line tanks, it is VERY time consuming, and the coating we used are VERY expensive.
The cost of the coatings with no labor comes close to the cost of a new tank.
I am not soliciting work for this process, I just wish to clear up some information regarding the process that I used.

If there is interest I will share what we found out, the tank that was lined was for someone who is in the business, the linings used are not available to the general public, they are meant to line steel, concrete, and fibeglass tanks and pipelines that store and transfer fuel.

More importantly- they were designed to adhere to the strict guidlines for the oil and pipeline industry and are approved for 100% ethanol storage,as well as GASAHOL storage.

There is a primer that is the key to the process- if there is any contamination of the substrate, which we found, off the shelf coatings and primers will not stick to them. The process we used is a 3 coating process totalling 30mils with the one we did coming closer to 50 mils.
There is also cleaning, grinding, re-riveting, re-glassing, etc...

There are specific length and grip rivets that you must use- monel and stainless, you have to not only cut the baffles out, but you must grind away all the fiberglass along the rivet lines, which number into the 300 rivet range, and drill out the old rivets.

I know alot of you are hands on, but this is not a job for the faint of heart, you must also properly pressure test the tank for leaks when done.
It is also IMPOSSIBLE to do in the boat, which I have read some people contimplating.

Again I can go into more detail, but the bottom line is do not confuse one lining with another. It is cheaper to go with a aluminum tank.
My welder also tells me he cannot legally certify a stainless tank of that size to go in a gas powered boat. I dont know if thats a certain qualification he does not have, or if that is just the way it is.
So stainless tanks might not be a option worth considering.

Posted: Jan 3rd, '07, 14:13
by Raybo Marine NY
here are some pictures, tank failure, baffles removed, coatings applied.
you can see the contamination of the substrate in some of the pictures, this was on a tank that had the fuel pumped out and the tank was scrubbed clean with soap and water.
There had not been fuel in that tank for weeks.
It only leached out when left out in the sun.
So those that think the surface is clear of residual fuel- think again.

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Posted: Jan 3rd, '07, 16:20
by dougl33
What year and size are these before photos from?

Posted: Jan 3rd, '07, 16:38
by Raybo Marine NY
they are all from a early-mid 70s 33 Bertram

Posted: Jan 3rd, '07, 17:58
by dougl33
I hate to bug you, but if possible could you be more specific.

Bertram did not start making 33's until 77. Could it have been from a 35?

Posted: Jan 3rd, '07, 20:39
by Raybo Marine NY
you could be right, I never got to see the boat as the owner brought the tank in and installed it himself.
Like I said he is a mechanic, all I did was the tank itself.

For some reason though 33 sticks in my head so Im probably off on the year.


The tank itself is no different they any other bertram tank except in its capacity. The baffles and construction are identical to any other tank.

You could still make out the tag that said NOT FOR ETHANOL on it.

Posted: Jan 3rd, '07, 22:04
by dougl33
Thanks for the reply. That's interesting that it says not for ethanol. Most of the tanks I've seen (including the one in my 86 33) say not for use with Methanol.

Posted: Jan 4th, '07, 21:27
by Raybo Marine NY
let me add that I am 100% confident in the coating and process that was used. Its just not cost effective for the average person.
Its a labor of love.