Start up with new aluminum tank

[Bobkat]

Ok can us some advice from those who have been there before.

I waited probably one year longer than I should have and finally replaced my tank with aluminum.

I fished last year until December and the engines were still running with an occasional backfire and lower RPM. I winterized it with Stable and Startron.

The new tank will be installed next week and I am looking for advice in starting up the engines for the first time. I have received two tips so far.

First use a pry bar and turn the engine over manually to free the valves and pistons before pushing the starter.

Add Marvel Mystery oil before starting

Any other suggestions, additives, etc. to hopefully clean out the junk.

[In Memory Walter K]

If you can manually turn over the engine, I would assume your valves are not glued down. Good start. Marvil Mystery oil is usually part of the shutdown process to "smog" your engine out. Start with fresh gas. Once running, based on how well, you will have to conclude whether a carburetor cleaner (if you have carbs) improves your idle. I do not know whether non-epoxy infused fuel will help you dissipate (over time), whatever residue exists in your engines now, but sure as hell, the new fuel running through it will not add more of that goo throughout. You may find some lost rpm coming back. A good sign of things cleaning up if that happens, but I don't think it will right away. Make sure you replace your hoses and vent line with ethanol proof ones as the interiors of your old ones can be severely degraded. Good luck.

[CaptPatrick]

Change oil and all filters.

Remove all spark plugs, check for black hard or gummy residue and replace with new plugs.

While the plugs are out, shoot each cylinder with CX, MMO, or similar.
Remove the valve covers and inspect for residue and pre-lube with fresh oil.

Clean the flame arresters, if you don't have EFI. If you're carburated, clean the carbs.

Remove fuel line connections and inspect for internal damage. Look for gummy or overly softness of the lines. Replace if necessary. If replacing, be sure the new lines are ethanol proof.

After all of these items have been performed, then turn the engines over by hand. Easier to do if the spark plugs are still out.

Only now, start the engines, preferably with the boat in the water. If out of the water, be sure that you have a good supply of water before starting and do not rev above an idle.

Look for weak spark or spark drain from wires. Check timing if you don't have solid state ignition.

If everything checks out, top off the tank and take a sea trial, bringing the engines to normal operating temperature. Trial through several increments of throttle advance until WOT is reached. Take notes along the way, and keep an eye on the gauges.

By this point you'll know what you can plan for any further procedures and have notes to make later comparrisons to.

[Bobkat]

Thanks Walter and Capt Patrick
I will take your advice and cross my fingers that I am not frozen.

I do use Marvel both in the crankcase and at tank fill ups. That may be why the engines survived as long as they did.

I also used fogging oil when winterizing. My auto mechanic said that he used transmission oil for the final shut down. Never heard of that before, but he swears that it works.

Assuming, I am lucky and it starts OK, besides MMO is there any other additive that may clean the crap the is in the engines.

Any experience with Sea Foam? Never used it but will try if you have any experience.

[CaptPatrick]

Seafoam won't hurt you, but I doubt that it, or any other additive, will do much for cleaning up any burnt on polyester resin.

For any chemical to even try to loosen/dissolve the polyester crud, the engine would have to be running, at operating temperature, and applied directly to the valve train. Whatever that might be, you'd also be diluting your engine oil and would necessitate an oil and filter change immediately after treatment.