tank replacement
Moderators: CaptPatrick, mike ohlstein, Bruce
tank replacement
Hi guys, I'm having a tank possably built by Alex Whitaker here on the west coast and wanted to know(problably been asked before) if it is doable to remove deck, replace tank and replace original deck for now just to have a working main tank. I want to be able to run her longer than the two saddle tanks can without worrying about range. Maybe someone has done this already, just need to know if they thought it was worth the extra effert at a later time for the deck itself, cost is the limiting factor. Thanks.
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- CaptPatrick
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I just removed my deck original plywood deck, i drilled the heads off the screw and brought the pieces up pretty solid except for around the aft hatch, i guess there is no reason you couldn't just screw it back down.
I dont have pics of the pieces, but they were in good enough shape to use as templets for the new panels, and i used a porta-power and the tank came up insanely easy.
I dont have pics of the pieces, but they were in good enough shape to use as templets for the new panels, and i used a porta-power and the tank came up insanely easy.
Thanks
Matt
Hull #315 - 854
Matt
Hull #315 - 854
This is great Matt, I might just be right behind you on your project.
So upon fiinding all the screws holding the deck down just grind the surface until you find them I assume? And I think I remember the Capt saying the three sections join like lap joints? I am also wondering do you have the 170gal tank (I can't see if you have a flanged top on tank)
and what are you planning on putting back in? Mine (I'll leave it up to the pro Alex) does not look like much extra length can be added due to the rudder shelf and B28 style rudder system. I did not want to raise the deck really, and for my use I don't remember ever having to worry about 170 gallons being short, even running to the Farrallon Islands rockfishing. I will have a gen pickup and diesel returns in the new one I also remember the Capt suggesting. Please post more pics as you go! Thanks.
So upon fiinding all the screws holding the deck down just grind the surface until you find them I assume? And I think I remember the Capt saying the three sections join like lap joints? I am also wondering do you have the 170gal tank (I can't see if you have a flanged top on tank)
and what are you planning on putting back in? Mine (I'll leave it up to the pro Alex) does not look like much extra length can be added due to the rudder shelf and B28 style rudder system. I did not want to raise the deck really, and for my use I don't remember ever having to worry about 170 gallons being short, even running to the Farrallon Islands rockfishing. I will have a gen pickup and diesel returns in the new one I also remember the Capt suggesting. Please post more pics as you go! Thanks.
- In Memory Walter K
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- In Memory Walter K
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In my case, I had some rot that necessitated the deck replacement. This was pre-ethanol. If I remember correctly, there were aluminum strips running lengthwide between the panels that I removed and reinstalled with some sealer of sorts between the panels before I did to minimize water intrusion. Given you are going to destroy the tank anyway, I do believe there was enough space between the tank wall and the longitudinal stringers to get a sawzall in there for separation. Lifting it out may be tougher as the only gripping place I can remember is the fill plate. Good luck! Walter
Rocky
mine is the 170 gal, and i started removing all of it because i am redoing the deck also, BUT i am pretty sure if you remove the hold down blocks on the center and supports the tank would come out with out removing the other deck sections, I was lucky, the foam was stuck to my tank, not the boat, so mine came up easy. As far as the screws go, i used a 1/2" or so drill bit, and once you get an idea of where the screws are just drill the heads off, there was i think 4 or so across and like 4 rows, and the just pull the brass screws out with channel locks, i did get a few out by just unscrewing them, they are flat heads. As far as a tank, if my measurement were correct, you can get a lot more tank with out raising the deck, i think with out moving the rudder shelf you can go like 6 or 7 inches longer. I personally am using a aluminum tank. I cant justify the cost of fiberglass at this time. I have talked to alex a couple times, I am sure he can help alot with dimensions and there is alot on here that Capt. Pat did with "zero cavity" And if Mike Dolan would hurry up and fix his web site, he had a TON of picks
My tank should be here from Florida shortly.
mine is the 170 gal, and i started removing all of it because i am redoing the deck also, BUT i am pretty sure if you remove the hold down blocks on the center and supports the tank would come out with out removing the other deck sections, I was lucky, the foam was stuck to my tank, not the boat, so mine came up easy. As far as the screws go, i used a 1/2" or so drill bit, and once you get an idea of where the screws are just drill the heads off, there was i think 4 or so across and like 4 rows, and the just pull the brass screws out with channel locks, i did get a few out by just unscrewing them, they are flat heads. As far as a tank, if my measurement were correct, you can get a lot more tank with out raising the deck, i think with out moving the rudder shelf you can go like 6 or 7 inches longer. I personally am using a aluminum tank. I cant justify the cost of fiberglass at this time. I have talked to alex a couple times, I am sure he can help alot with dimensions and there is alot on here that Capt. Pat did with "zero cavity" And if Mike Dolan would hurry up and fix his web site, he had a TON of picks
My tank should be here from Florida shortly.
Thanks
Matt
Hull #315 - 854
Matt
Hull #315 - 854
Hi Matt, yes the 6" is what I see on the aft end of my tank for possable lengthening also, of course I'll leave it up to Alex for max size. This is great about maybe having the room to pull from center deck only, then when I do the entire cockpit I'll go all out on everything under it later, especially reinforcing the strut pads. Thanks for the fastener location/tips also. I'll try to post pics myself as I go.
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