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Does anyone know of a one-part adhesive I can use on teak? The work I am doing requires clamping of lattice work and mixing multiple batches of epoxy would be difficult. Work is decorative not structural. Thanks.
Harry

Harry,

A moisture cure urethane glue, such as Gorrilla Glue would be your best bet. To be successful takes a bit of a learning cruve and before actual use on your project, a few trial runs on scrap is advised...

Thanks Capt. Pat. I just purchased the new Gorrilla Wood Glue from Harbor Freight this week. I wonder if that will work like the original product? The original is a pain to clean the excess off the wood.
Harry

Harry,

Don't know about the new stuff, but with all urethane glues, you really need to clean up excess right away. Once it hardens it's a real bitch in tight areas... At least with epoxy, you've got a little longer window to clean up in.

You might think of using an epoxy that's in side by side plunger mixing tubes such as 3M Scotch-Weld Epoxy Adhesive DP105 Clear but your clean up time is pretty short.

I had a small job to do around the house, used the
tube of six 10 thickened epoxy by west system.
a little expensive but nice to use, can be re capped after use, just need to buy a new mixing nozzle
wont sag either

Charlie,
Thanks for the tip on the West product. Glad to hear you are settled in NC.
Harry

Polyurethane construction adhesive is pretty tenacious stuff too. Usually the substrate will fail before the glue lets go, but with an oily wood like teak you had better test it first. Maybe an alcohol wipe right before gluing would help. Gorilla glue foams slightly as it goes off, so be careful not to let it get too near the edge of the pieces and clamp them good.

Harry this is what we use on all the wood floor we install that need to be glued down both above and below grade. It is completely moisture resistant and also acts as a barrier and resists hydro static pressure. It comes in a 10oz cartridge caulk tube as well as gallons and 4 gallon pails

Bostik's BEST® is a one-part, trowel applied, tacking, moisture-cure urethane adhesive; this advanced
scientifically formulated adhesive does NOT contain any water. Once cured, Bostik’s BEST is waterproof and
is not adversely affected by exposure to moisture or water; its superior properties provide a tough, flexible,
tenacious bond to a variety of surfaces. Bostik’s BEST’s elastomeric characteristics allow the adhesive to move
with the wood as it expands and contracts over the life of the floor. When applied as directed for moisture
vapor membrane, Bostik’s BEST will reduce moderate amounts of moisture vapor transmission from the
subfloor and prevent damages to engineered wood flooring caused by subfloor moisture. This product has
a moisture protection of up to 12 lbs. or 82% RH

http://www.lumberliquidators.com/ll/c/B ... G/10016667" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

-Mark

Mark,
Looks like a home run for my application. I can dab and clamp as I go along without mixing multiple batches of two part. What do you use to clean excess and what is the cure time. Looks like a less toxic form of PL. Thanks.
Harry

I would clean up as soon as possible with mineral spirits , once dry you would have to apply elbow grease and at the very least 0000 steel wool. We stay off for 24 hours and after that it's good to go but initial cure is a few hours.

Mark-
being that your our resident cheesehead, and thereby far away from saline waters, you may not know...

But no one on the coast should ever, and I mean never, use steelwool for anything outside, or on the boat especially.
It's amazing how fast the broken down particles become iron oxide... faster than watching paint dry at times.

Bronze wool or synthetics like scotch brites only... unless of course its an area that rust stains wont matter.

I share this because my name is also Mark S, and I am also from a midwest tribe just south of the cheesehead nation known as the FIB's. I learned the hard way on my first ocean front paint job a long while back now. About 300' of chalking aluminum handrail over a keystone-coral tile walkway. Used steel wool to abrade a good portion of it in the prep... by the time I walked back to my truck to get more steel wool there were rust stains everywhere on that porous tile under the prepped rail. Even had a drop cloth under me as I worked.

That was no bueno.

Buju That is my education for the day! Thanks for the smartening. In the end my point being the Bostic's Best is a bitch after it drys!

So there must be some dirty tricks one could play with steel wool on the coasts, no?