bertram31.com

I looked at YouTube and saw how to test mine with the ohms meter.

How to I tell what my existing ohms range is does it show it on the unit that I can read once I pull it out or look up the model # if it has one or ?

Guess if it reads the ohms range I should look at the gage ? hot to test gage and then if the gage is OK look at the wiring right ?

I recently put one in my skip jack and adjusted it so beside getting one that will adjust to the proper height and is automotive OK or marine only if there is such a thing ?


Thanks for any help gentlemen

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Keith-

I installed a mechanical gauge. Less stuff to go wrong, and it works fine. If you stay with electric, Isspro seems to be the way to go.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... sNum=50391#" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Most of those single wire senders are 0 to 240 ohms.
Set the ohm meter on x1 scale, touch the leads and zero out the meter with the adjustment if it has one.

With the fuel gauge powered up, pull the center sender wire off and touch to the outer base of the sender. This grounds it and should send the gauge full scale. If it does the problem is in the sender.

If it doesn't make sure the base of the sender is properly grounded. If not sure run a wire from the ground buss temp to the sender wire and see if the meter goes full scale. If it does the sender base ground is bad and fix, retry the first procedure.

If gauge still doesn't move make sure it has +12vdc and ground going to it. Measure right at the back of the gauge with power on. If that is good jump from the ground to the sender terminal on the gauge, it should go full scale. If it does then gauge is good. If it doesn't bad gauge.

If grounding the sender wire didn't move the gauge but the the check at the gauge worked as described, you have a possible bad or corroded sender wire. Run a temp wire from the gauge sender terminal to the sender to confirm.

This works with 95% of all gauges out there. Will not work with micro processor type gauges. Also works for checking oil and temp senders.

Also some of the 3 wire terminal senders that require +12v going to them may not work either. they usually have 3 little dial adjustments for high mid and low levels.

Keith,
If your using the old fiberglass OEM Bertram tank, the sender with the arm might not work, because the float ball may be hitting the internal baffles on the tank. You need to have a worm style sender or electric Lorvorissi or Isapro (spelling) sender. I use a 3 wire Lorvorissi sender with the small calibration dials.
Pete Fallon

Thanks guys so helpful

http://www.isspro.com/



For when 'perfect' is just good enough.........

John F. wrote:Keith-

I installed a mechanical gauge. Less stuff to go wrong, and it works fine. If you stay with electric, Isspro seems to be the way to go.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... sNum=50391#" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Hey John think I'm done playing with the wires ready to go mechanical on the fuel sending unit do you recall the length of yours ? 230 gal fiberglass ?