bertram31.com

I just saw this product. Wondering if anyone has used this device.
Looks like a sure fire way to pull a prop and a nice way to install.
Wondering if there are any downsides in having the 3 holes in the hub of the prop....
Changing a prop underwater is not fun, changing it without a tank is even less fun. Been there done that.
The number of bolts on this thing looks like it would require a tank no matter what...but it looks like it WOULD work every time.
Would like feedback.
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Alot is going to depend on the small end of your prop hub. Many of the wheels I am familiar with for our boats just do not have enough meat to drill and tap for bolts sizable enough to break a taper free. Use too small a bolt and you'll rip them apart before taper pops. Adding extra holes...maybe. don't like the sound of it

I have been using Walters Prop Pullers underwater for years. Three blade wheel puller is light and easily done freediving. The larger 4 blade puller is weighty and gets fun trying to align in one breathe...but doable. A safety cord tied to puller is a mixed bag...don't have to worry about unit dropping away...but cord can get in the way.

I think there are too many parts there!
Hex head?........tons of torque to snatch a prop off. I picture the hex heads stripping before the prop gives way. Never seen or used it before though so I could be way off.
Take what I say with a grain of salt though; my prop fell off once!

I think the propsmith is slicker than grits.....

LIke Carl said......if the propeller has enough stock to use for drilling and tapping the necessary holes. My new props had plenty of meat.....and naturally the way I think.....mo is better.......I drilled and tapped 6 holes in the face of my props......as well as my tapered bored couplings.

The bolts used to "Push" or "Pull" the props are only 5/16" diameter bolts but when tightened equally they develop an unbelievable amount of push or pull.

Its a proven fact that when you use a Prop Smith correctly the tapers are much better seated than when installed with the propeller shaft nuts.

I highly recommend this method of installing or removing a propeller.

My prop smith's have actually saved lives.......cause I will kill the first guy that hits my prop or coupling with a hammer....LOL

hb

Good to know Harry, thanks!
I don't want anyone hitting it with a hammer either.
The number of parts would make it more challenging in the water and a tank I believe would be a MUST.
But it looks like a precision piece of equipment.

Harry you are still my hero !

Bob...

Harry is everybody's hero here!

Smallest diameter shaft for Prop puller is 1 3/4 according to website. My 1 3/8 are too small. NUTS!

Steve:

Don't dive under the boat with a tank, set the tank in the boat's cockpit securely and use a long air hose for your reg, like you would dive with a surface supplied air compressor.

It's much less cumbersome, you can buy a cheap reg and first stage with 40' of air hose for short $ so that you have a dedicated set up.

That said the tank does act as a good 'bumper' instead of your head if you're buoyancy skills are not up to scratch, ask me how I know.......................

Thanks Preston...my brother and dad told me the same thing...he recently gave me a long hose and regulator now that he downsized to a small outboard boat. I suppose all I need is a tank and that nice prop puller device! ....and a spot to store a small tank on the boat. Real Estate is precious on these boats.

When using a tank I usually latch onto the shaft with my feet or the rudder, go slightly buoyant and work upside down like I was lying on the ground...except I am plastered to the bottom of the boat. And that's good, visibility in my slip is at best a foot or so. Last one I did for a friend I couldn't see squat, murky shadows and did job by feel.


The puller I mentioned is really a snap to use free diving. Even with a tank you have to make a couple trips and sometimes I just cannot be bothered with all the crap for a single wheel swap.

First unplug shore power before going in.

One or two breathes to pull cotter pin
Another to loosens nuts, pull only one off.
another to place puller.
another to snug.
another to tighten
another to pop wheel free
another to remove puller
another to remove nut, wheel and key

Install is simple...just make sure keys does not hang up in wheel or shaft before starting

Sounds like alot...but 20 minutes to a half hour to swap out a wheel with a person handing you the stuff and that's taking my time.

It's good to get used to removing wheels on land first.

Steve

On Carl's advice I picked up the Walters.. I am very happy with it. The first year after my repower, before I picked up the puller, I had the marina pull the props because we had to tweek them. I know have dimples all over the hubs of the props. Not happy about that.

Just make sure if you go with the Walters, the space between the strut and the prop will accomodate teh puller. Mine just makes it.

As Tony said you need to have the room to install Walters puller...as well as the other brands on the market. At least one shaft diameter space between prop and strut....but you should have that anyway so as not to impede water flow thru Cutless bearing. One to one and a half diameter space is what is recommended by cutless and shaft manufactures.
Worst case scenario is you need to undue the Coupling to tranny bolts a bit allowing shaft to slide back a tad to slide puller in.

Thanks Tony and Carl,
The Walters does seem like the same principle, however it's far less of an engineering marvel, looks pretty simple, which probably means is a lot lest costly too, and it looks easier do work under water.

The Prop Smith style puller is simple and easy to use too. You just need enough meat on the prop hub to work with...If you have enough on your wheels..a great choice. But you also need to modify your wheels.