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Teak Question

Posted: Jan 14th, '07, 17:12
by mikepelham
I recently purchased a 31, Gin & Tomic. I really like the way the teak gunnel look. Does anyone know a good place to start reserching. I assume it all has to be cut ans custom fitted then drill haws and rod holes.

Any guideance/suggestions, with the exception of don't do it becuase of mainmtenance

Thanks

Posted: Jan 14th, '07, 18:17
by randall
mike...i have mahogany cover boards on my 25......here are a few thoughts...im sure patrick can ad or correct me

i think it is a good idea to make sure they run forward far enough and are angled so that water running down the gunnel goes overboard instead of into the cockpit.....i used the gas intake and the rod holders to attach the side board so no other screws were necessary....the transom is a little more difficult....i put a bead of epoxy to hold the compound curve but it can be screwed and plugged...........make sure to caulk well so water dosen't get trapped under them.......really an easy job that adds a lot cosmetically and gives a good foot hold............good luck

Posted: Jan 14th, '07, 20:02
by thuddddddd
Randall how much stuff do I neeed to order for you?? So you can do the tubb in one visit

Posted: Jan 14th, '07, 21:27
by randall
timmmmmmmy..........i can do it ....but its kind of a last step...call me when the paint dries....randalllllllllll

Posted: Jan 14th, '07, 22:12
by randall
picture worth a 1000 words.....dont worry patrick....i'll give it a rest Image[/img]Image

Posted: Jan 15th, '07, 09:20
by Mikey
Randall,
As I always suspected, a beautiful, well-maintained boat.

Teal covering boards

Posted: Jan 15th, '07, 09:32
by Capt. Mike Holmes
Randall - looks great, as I knew it would.

I did mine with teak. I raised the actual covering board are with a piece of foam board secured with 5200 so the teak would go over the raised lip on the inside edge for a smooth surface across. I found that even with the rod holders bolted through, a generous amount of 5200 under the teak, and also screws from underneath, exposure to the Texas summer sun tries to pull it up, so I've had to use a few bolts - countersunk and plugged.

Maintenance is a problem, at least on the Gulf Coast. I tried keeping the teak "natural" and using only teak oil. looked beautiful, but required frequent cleaning and oiling - very frequent. Using a two-part epoxy varnish now, but i didn't do a real jod job on the first application, need to remove it and try again.

I love the look, would do it again without question. I used 1/2" teak planks, cut them to fit with a circular saw - wasn't that hard, if I can do it. Put in separate sections for the corners, where the hawsepipes go. Not a picture poster, but I can email pix.

Posted: Jan 15th, '07, 10:19
by randall
thanks....when i bought the boat she had teak cover boards that turned the corner and dropped vertically into the cockpit about 4 inches......for me it was a much harder job to fill and fair the gunnels for paint...first coat looked like a mogul field........bout 10 tries later i looked OK....wood part was easy

Posted: Jan 15th, '07, 13:24
by Harry Babb
Captian Mike
I would like to see Pics of the Teak cover boards if you don't mind. I like the look of wood also........hell, I live in a Log Cabin......I think there are 9 pieces of sheet rock in my whole house.
My current Bertram project is, I am completely redoing the cabin of an Express and I am trimming the "Head Door" and cabin windows with Juniper then I am going to make an install Juniper Headliner. When I get to the outside Teak may very well be in "De Nadas" future.

Harry Babb

Teak

Posted: Jan 15th, '07, 13:44
by Capt. Mike Holmes
Harry give me your email address (mine is: captain31@peoplepc.com) and I'll send you some pix of the cover boards and the other areas I've put wood on, inside and out. We have a cold spell blowing in, and I just checked on the boat, so I'll be inside looking for pictures for an article most of the day, anyway. I often get kidded about covering a fiberglass boat with wood, and it makes it harder to keep it looking good if the boat isn't under a shed, like mine isn't right now, but I think the look is worth it, to me, at least - and I'm the one I'm doing it for. By the way, I hate sheetrock!

Posted: Jan 15th, '07, 13:46
by Harry Babb
Mike
Me email address is hbabb@bsmachineshop.com
Harry Babb

Teak

Posted: Jan 15th, '07, 17:21
by Leigh
Mike:I would appreciate a copy of the pictures too. Am planning on doing cover boards for my 28. My e-mail is bbsslaw@msn.com. Thanks, Leigh

Pictures

Posted: Jan 15th, '07, 19:10
by mikepelham
Mike:

Please e-mail me pictures as well, if you do not mind. Thanks for your input and advice. My e-mail is mpelham@e-icc.com

Posted: Jan 16th, '07, 08:04
by Brewster Minton
There are pix of my covering boards below at 66 bertram.

Posted: Jan 16th, '07, 09:54
by randall
brewster...very nice job...but you should put some tackle in the shot so itt looks fishy

Posted: Jan 16th, '07, 12:31
by scot
Brewster,

Nice ride, plenty of Gold hangin off the sides. I have also noticed that in your ID picture, your fish is bigger than mine. &6%$#)(*

Posted: Jan 17th, '07, 16:34
by Ironman
Nice boat... What is that green stick made up from? I was looking at a very large ant,&try to convert it. ...maybe?
Wayne

Posted: Jan 17th, '07, 17:07
by Brewster Minton
Ironman, the stick is fiberglass and only made in japan. There are a couple of sizes and some are made of carbonfiber stuff and grafite but those are mucho $$. There is about 100 pounds of drag on the rig when its running and the breakaway is set at 200 pounds. An antena or such would not work at all in my mind. You need a real stick. I know a place to get the if you want.