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I run this beautiful 64' Sunny Briggs on occasion. Whilst pulling from our tournament slip into the fuel slip, I had a bit of a little incident with a piling and a bolt on said piling. Anywhoo, my glass repair guy says its virtually impossible to blend the new paint into the old and it must be taped off. Thus, creating a possible "line" between the repair and unrepaired sections. Is this right? I have no knowledge nor skillset when it comes to paint.

I do have a newly acquired bit of knowledge when it comes to Carolina flared bows combined with wind and current. Live and learn.

Tom,

If the Briggs is painted in the original Awlgrip, not Awlcraft 2000 or Awlcraft SE, then your glass guy is correct. Taping it out will leave a tape line and trying to blend Awlcraft into Awlgrip will leave a dull halo between the two... A good painter can minimize the blended patch with a deft hand and clear topcoat, so that's the avenue I'd explore.

As I understand things.. the paint we know as "Awlgrip" lays down in such a way that the pigment migrates to the bottom of the coating and a sort of clear coat rises to the top, leaving a sort of two layer effect. This is the reason repairs are very difficult.. Awlcraft 2000 (which is what my boat is painted with) lays down in a uniform coating (much like traditional paints) that is the same from top to bottom.. and is much easier to repair.

its possible to repair, and polish- but it takes away from its gloss in the long term, so its a catch 22

Tom:

I ran a 50' Willis (Harkers Island, not Florida) with a single Cat -- 880hp+- and twin rudders, the bowflare was substantial - I believe when the wind would start puffing I used the term, "the spinnaker is full"

Tom

CaptPatrick wrote:Tom,

If the Briggs is painted in the original Awlgrip, not Awlcraft 2000 or Awlcraft SE, then your glass guy is correct. Taping it out will leave a tape line and trying to blend Awlcraft into Awlgrip will leave a dull halo between the two... A good painter can minimize the blended patch with a deft hand and clear topcoat, so that's the avenue I'd explore.

Thanks all and Capt. Pat. That's exactly what we discussed and the paint is OEM Awlgrip. I like my glass guy and he does good work at a fair price. Just double checking things.

there are better tapes, dont have to necessarily have a "hard line", 3M smooth transition tape ,3M DART tape, etc.
Im sure he is aware of them.

I have repaired awl grip numerous times with awl craft 2000 , sand the repaired area with 320 ,and 6" of the adjacent area with 800 ,spray out the repaired area to get the color build up u need, thin out the left over paint with 75% thinner and fog or mist in the entire area, let set a few days ,wet sand with 1500 and finesse it, if not enough luster, rescuff with fine paper and shoot clear with the same fogging teckique , did it recently on a sea foam green finish and it became more shinny than the original, remanded with 2000 and barely buffed it, can't do anything about uv but if u don't like the results, scuff up, tape off with Fine Line and roll and tip

Thanks for the tip Marlin. This is a small area, 2 inches by 5 inches on the port stern. Most people wouldn't notice a sub 100% repair here, except the owner. And its his checkbook.