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I thought I had seen rectangular scuppers with a rectangular float/stopper -- similar to the ping pong ball design. Has anyone seen this design? I am taking on copious amounts of water when tied up or drifting around a rig. I replaced the rubber flappers with new neoprene with little effect. The "seastop/T-H Marine" design does not look any better. Searching earlier posts indicates that y'all (you guys) are having similar problems...

Thanks
--Marshall

Marshall

I am going to actually put blocking doors on mine.......so I can completely close them when I want to

hb

Raybo marine solve this problem .go back and find his post on scuppers or Gemlux ,in addition to flawless operation they are fine grade 316ss ------forever.

I have had good service from Seastops installed on by B38. I chose Seastops to address two issues - 1) Draining a flooded cockpit quickly and 2) keeping feet dry. I have had green water break over the cockpit a couple of times running in large seas and wanted to maximize the cockpit drainage flow and I got tired of having wet feet when standing in the corner fishing in rough conditions.

We opened the scupper drain area quite a bit and built king starboard faring shims for the Seastops that also act as the flapper stop as the ID is slightly smaller than the flap OD and also installed a small pair of rare-earth magnets to keep the scupper from opening (i.e., so the flaps stay in the same plane as the transom) in rough conditions while drifting in the bottom of the flap and the lower part of the starboard shim.

Sea Stops work good for me.

Gary -- I like the idea of magnets to hold the flap closed in seas. Do they open during rain/washing down the deck or only when large volume accumulates when taking water over the transom?
Harry, I also like the idea of a gate to block them off -- using a rag now but difficult to access (swim platform on the outside and a fixed transom panel on the inside. Let me know what your design looks like when you figure it out.

All -- thanks for the quick feedback.

I like the Sea Stops, but the UV's are hard on the white, turning them pink. I'm going to use the black one on the current project. I found that you can shave the flapper's edge in critical areas to make them work on curved transoms. Also you can shave down the OD of the flapper's side pins to make it function when the frame is bent due to the transom's curve.

You could use a 8" long piece of 1" x 1" teak (or Starboard) and a 1/4 / 20 SS center bolt with a wing nut to make lock them down. Just drill a 1/4" hole through the center of the Sea Stop, install the wood piece inside the cockpit and pass the small stud through the scupper plate... add the wing nut outside and it would be completely locked in the closed position.

Marshall -- Sorry for the late reply, I have been on 100 hour work-weeks and travel since my last post.

The small magnets I used in the Sea Stops don't hold the flaps with much force when they are closed so that they still open easily - you might not notice their presence manipulating the flaps by hand. I have not had any drainage issues with the salt-water washdown draining for instance.

The magnets in the Sea Stops do keep the transom corner dryer especially when fishing in rough seas where you need to wedge into the corner to have two hands for the rod and reel (stand up fishing).

I have not have had a UV issue with the white Sea Stop as Scot mentioned, but I am probably at a higher latitude being in San Diego CA.