bertram31.com

Hey Guys,

I will be doing some rewiring on Shambala as part of the repower project. Can someone recommend a source for DC wire so I'm not bleeding from the wrists at West Marine?

Also, when following the ABYC DC wiring standards (http://xa.yimg.com/kq/groups/1599623/67 ... +CHART.pdf) am I correct in reading that orange is the color that should be used from the DC distribution panel to any accessories not specifically named in the ABYC wire color key (e.g. stereo head, amplifiers, etc)?

Thanks in advance!

John Vietor

http://www.genuinedealz.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

JohnV8r
I have found that Anchor Marine Cable is the best for re-wiring, it is tinned copper wire, most of your runs are going to be with 14-2 wire, feeds to the bridge or electric panels are either straight 6 or 8 gauge single wires either red or black, sub panels 10-3, 30 amp 110 volt inlet wire 10-3 with a breaker if run is more than 72" away from the AC breaker panel. For electric reel kite or fishing reels should be 10-3 with a self re-setting breaker at least 50 Amps, cabin lights, fans, nav lights use 14-2, the only time I use anything smaller than 14-2 is for stereo speakers or remote VHF speakers.
The enemy of all wiring is heat factor, Anchor Marine Cable is rated for 600 degree temps. For you batteries use 1/0 red or black cable with either proper crimping tool or soldered connections with heat shrink over ends, always use marine grade butt or closed lug terminals with epoxy in the heat shrink, NEVER use automotive style connectors in your boat.
ABYC color codes are mainly for engine wiring harnesses. I have wired a lot of vessels and always used Anchor Marine tinned copper cable. Remember your wiring a boat that flexes NEVER use household type wiring Single strand conductors, NEVER use wire nuts and think out your wiring needs, make a wiring schematic for future reference.
Anchor Marine Cable is available through your large marine supply houses or if you know anyone is the boat building business ask them to get you a roll or two, If your doing over a 31 Bertram 2 rolls of 14-2, 1 of 12-2, 1 roll 10-3 and you will have to measure your battery cable lengths, remember no more than 4 separate connections on each battery post. Runs from your battery charger should be minimum of 8 to 10 gauge single wire depending on how far the run is away from the charger to the battery terminal connection. Mine are less than 72" but I have #8 gauge wire because that's what I had on hand.
Any areas that are going to be wet, galley sink, head sink cockpit outlets all should be Ground Fault Interrupter Circuits (Duplex plug GFCI). Also flood lights on the tower or rear of the bridge should have 12-2 Halogen bulbs draw a lot of juice ei:heat.
Panel boards made by Blue Seas, Bass or UPM with analog displays for the DC and Ac volts are the way to go with a minimum of 24 DC breakers and 8 AC breakers.
Good luck with your project,
Pete Fallon

As a second source you may checkout these guys

http://tinnedmarinewire.com/wire/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

hb

http://www.delcity.net/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I second Genuine Dealz that is who I bought all of my marine electrical supplies from. All tinned wire, marine grade and like Pete said heat rated to 600 degrees.

I have also used Delcity. When using Del, 75% of the time you get Anchor wire. They used to own Anchor up to a couple of years ago.

Pete,

When you refer to "rolls" are you talking about 100', 250', 500', or 1000' rolls? Those are the Ancor roll sizes for 14-2.

Thanks for all the information. I appreciate it.

Sincerely,

John Vietor

Harry & Tony,

Thanks!

John Vietor

Agree with Micky and Pete. Did my total rewire with the predecessor of Genuine Dealz.com and recently with them. Bought spools as large as 150'. The more you buy the more you save. Good folks.They had Anchor wire and many of the obscure items I wanted.

JohnV8r,
The 14-2 wire was 2 rolls of 250' each, the rest were 100' each. Sorry for the confusion on the amount of wire, the more you buy the cheaper it is.
Pete Fallon

Thanks Pete!

"The more you buy the more you save" This thread is starting to sound like my wife's shoe shopping.

Peter,
At least its just shoes. My Bride's list contained a new car, until Sunday.
Whew!

LOL.....I have saved so much money on my repower.......that right now I simply cannot afford to save anymore money!!! !

hb

Remember the size of the wire depends on the amperage draw, u measure dc requirements from the origin to The device and then back again, then convert the ga size, not like buying a spool of Romex from Home Depot for wiring your garage, remember to size the fuse/circuit breaker to protect the wire, not the device,follow the standards,u may need to run 12/2 for 30 feet x2= 60 ' and fuse accordingly, then add a small amp fuse /breaker at the device to protect the device, I used only heat shrink/epoxy type crimp connectors with a ratcheting crimping tool and tug at every connection, I never use butt connectors to lengthen a wire, the custom boat builders in the south use numerous terminal blocks to make their connections/splices, this allows easier trouble shooting/testing at any time, I always coat the terminal Blocks /screw connections with a liquid /brush on insulator as well, if u follow this system u know where your problems aren't and its so easy to put a multimeter to use for continuity /voltage checks and to diaignose/replace a device (ie bilge pump) at a later date

Ok, I know I'm late to the party…

I used Greg's marine Wire Supply last fall, and was very satisfied. Fully tinned at a great price...

http://gregsmarinewiresupply.com/Zen/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Cheers!

John