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This is a picture of Shambala's helm.



I'm not sure if the gauge cluster is completely stock. The two outside momentary/pushbutton switches are the engine start buttons; the middle momentary/pushbutton switch is the horn button. There is no keyed ignition, just toggle switches hidden under the helm to turn the ignition on (which I love since there are no keys to lose).

When I do the repower to the 6BTA remans, I want to have this type of gauge cluster made to keep to keep the style of gauge panel looking as original as possible. I've always thought the Yanmar gauge clusters shown on Capt. Patrick's bubble console looked great. I don't think that would fit in the stock helm, but I like that style and the way it flows.

I really have four questions:

First, what gauges come with the standard Cummins 6BTA gauge package?

Second, what gauges do I need (i.e. should I add boost, exhaust gas temp, transmission oil temp, etc)?

Third, what is involved with customizing the Cummins standard gauge cluster. Can I simply unplug the gauges from the wiring harness, move them, and plug them in again so that I split the gauges from the warning lights or do I need to have a custom wiring harness built? I would prefer to put the warning lights below the helm where the cell phone is in the picture. Can I add or replace the Cummins gauges with other Stewart Warner gauges like the SW "Standard Gauge" type that looks close to the original Bertram Stewart Warner gauges? See example here:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sww-8 ... QgodqSgADg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Last, is it possible to have a set up like I have right now where there are on/off toggle switches under the helm and start buttons in a separate location? I know on a diesel engine there is no "ignition" per se like I have on toggle switches now. However, I would rather be able to shut down with toggle switches than keys.

Thanks in advance,

John Vietor

John,

I too have and like the toggle switch on/off and push-button start, just re-used the same as when I had gas.

Here's a link to Teleflex Heavy Duty line of gauges, I'm using them along with orig Stuart-Warner and you have to look close to see the difference. price isn't too bad either.

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... id=1383892

br,
JohnD

Thanks John!

John

I used the Cummins gauges in the original panel. We had the rim rechromed. She looked good around the edges but the center not too much. The Cummins dealer I used has a ton of connections, so he was able to wrangle a black sheet of thin plastic that Vicking used on their panels. We cut it to fit.

We eliminated the start buttons (I miss them) by just letting the sheet cover up the holes. Looks just like the original from the factory less the start buttons.

Cummins usually comes with VDO guages that can mount from the back or drop in from the front on their panels.

On 31's that I've done where owner wants to keep stock appearance I kept the toggle on bridge and or pull switch on lower station for ignition circuit and push button starts.

What I would add would be panel breakers for ignition master on dc panel for port and starboard. I would also add hidden anti theft switches that would kill fuel circuits.

John,
I used the original panel and VDO Ocean gauges when I converted to Cummins from 454's.


Used the original wheel as well, with a few modifications. The mome buttons still start the engines. I kept the original keyed ignition but moved them. My gauges are tachs, oil pressure, water temp, alt. VDO makes a gauge that looks like the old S-W gauges if you prefer..

Thanks guys! That really helps a lot. I do still have two questions:

1. What did you do with the alarm/warning panel? Is it something I should mount remotely or can I not mount it at all?

2. In reading as much as I can possibly read about diesel engines, I came across this article by Tony Athens from Boatdiesel.com http://www.sbmar.com/articles/boost_and_egt/ in which he advocates the use of boost and exhaust gas temperature gauges (EGT). Being a diesel neophyte, the article makes sense to me. Are boost and EGT gauges something I should incorporate in the gauge panel?

Thanks in advance,

John Vietor

I would only get the boost and egt guages if you plan on running real hard or engine maker has got the engine output so cranked up that its a hand grenade waiting to go off sorta like the old Junk and Trouble detroit conversions, otherwise don't bother.

Thanks Bruce!

John: Im so glad to hear you pulled the triggeron the remans.. you wont besorry.. I havent been on in a while ..stuff happenin.
Any thingI can help u with.. u got my # & email.. The gauges I have are in the orig cluster..
Theres a place in CostaMesa called Common Ground.. they have supplyed me ..I used VDO the chrome around the bezel tarnished big time but work good.. I advise the EGT at least.. they will tell u long before a problem..creeping temps up-.. (like a canary in the mine) mount them aside thye cluster or like me on thwe verticle dash area.. I can send pics ..
Wayne

Hey Wayne,

Hope you're doing well. I think I'm going to be down in Newport right around June 30th/July 1st. I'd love to take a quick peek at your install and ask you some questions.

I'll call you when I have firm plans.

Take care,

John Vietor

John, I took the Cummins panel apart and used the VDO gauges with the exception of tachs and pyrometers (Isspro), took the idiot lights out of the panel and hot glued them into the back of the corresponding gauges (JPs tip). Space is a premium on the dash and use it all how you see fit not Cummins Marine..BH

Bob,

Can you walk me through in a little more detail what you did with the idiot lights please?

Resolute is just looking phenomenal... Congratulations!

John Vietor

John, Take a close look at the VDO gauges that are in the cummins panel..you will see a red lens in the face of the gauge, look at the back of the gauge and you should see an empty spot or hole. Now look at the idiot lights, the tube that holds the lamp should be the same size as the hole in the gauge. I took a small grinder and shaved off the red lens at the end of the idiot light. The bulb itself should be near the bottom of the idiot "tube" or light. I then took a hot glue gun and placed a dab on the tube and glued it into the corresponding gauge. Lengthen the wires as needed. Hope that sheds some light..BH

Thanks Bob! I get it now!!!

If you are tight on space or you drove a race boat in your past you know you cannot read gauges every minute but the brain allows you to compare indicating needle .i have two in one gauge so you don't read you just glance at them . One needle not lineing up with another catches your attention.i also have the indicating needle in LED red that flashes on the parameters you dial in.the two seperate alarms are also set to these parameters one bell for water temp and buzzer for oil both gear and engine.these gauges are by flowscan.

The LED indicator lights are bilge pump indicators -------- mid ships and transom go on you may have a water inflow problem.bottom of tach. Sycro . Within 10 rpm.