bertram31.com

Took Alyssa Rose to the DMV on her trailer to register them in Ca.



These 3/16 black acrylic are roughed cut ready to sand and polish for transom scupper covers to accommodate the shark sling davits to prevent swamping.



You can see part of the deck framing 2" x 14" supports around the fuel tank that are on top of the stringers and the exhaust supports with the pipes copper strapped down.




One 9' x 5' sheet installed.




This is the two sheets roughed in i need to buy a new saw blade and scribe in the perimeter and line up the diamonds in the center of the deck.




Deck is a mirror right now but will dull over a few trips.

I used the diamond plate because it's heavy duty low maintenance and i do not have to worry about it getting scratched like gel coat and trying to keep it white all the time worrying about stains and is basically commercial grade rinse and forget.
It will suit my needs well with the shark sling and davits on deck and other heavy gear.

The deck is very strong with little flex if any when walking around on it.

The best part it was only 600 bucks.


That's all just wanted to share my excitement progress so happy getting closer to fishing researching.

All the best.

Hi Keith , I've seen all the work you have done but looking to this deck now , dont it get too hot when at the sun during some hours ?
And be carefull with that radar antenna when you are on the bridge with it working. Maybe, you could made a radar mast that place
that antenna higher to avoid waves that can harm your health.
All the best

luis wrote:Hi Keith , I've seen all the work you have done but looking to this deck now , dont it get too hot when at the sun during some hours ?
And be carefull with that radar antenna when you are on the bridge with it working. Maybe, you could made a radar mast that place
that antenna higher to avoid waves that can harm your health.
All the best

Luis. The antenna is going to be removed.

The diamond deck in my other boat does not get to hot and I do most of my fishing at night.

The weather here off shore is usually very mild as far as heat the water is usually under 70-F and I usually target 50-65-F 70 max.
At night usually all ways need a jacket.


Some times when the gel coat or aluminum does get to hot i cool it down with the wash down hose and put the top up.

Front side of the cockpit in the engine hatches should have a leeboard to redirect water from the transmissions

And. Just for giggles maybe a lazerete hatch to be able to access bilge pump and rudder packings/ steering. You made allot of dust, everything you didn't clean will end up in your pump and clog it

What do you do if the shaft packings go bad, I'm guessing initial start up and shake down are done with the deck out to check for exhaust leaks and what not.

Pretty sketchy dude

JP Dalik wrote:Front side of the cockpit in the engine hatches should have a leeboard to redirect water from the transmissions

And. Just for giggles maybe a lazerete hatch to be able to access bilge pump and rudder packings/ steering. You made allot of dust, everything you didn't clean will end up in your pump and clog it

What do you do if the shaft packings go bad, I'm guessing initial start up and shake down are done with the deck out to check for exhaust leaks and what not.

Pretty sketchy dude

The diamond plate is not installed yet just roughed in there is much more to be done to dial them in and yes i plan on installing trans dam all in good time.

Yes deck hatches for access are part of the plan and the plates unscrew for full access for major repairs in minutes

http://www.nauticexpo.com/prod/heater-c ... 99642.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Access to the pumps, the rudders, steering parts, fuel shutoffs, thru hulls..... You need some hatches.

I use diamond plate aluminum in the companionway. Here's a tip on hatch pulls for aluminum that won't break, and you won't stub your toes on them.

Start with a fairly stout carriage bolt, about three inches long. Put the bolt in the lathe and round off the square bit, so that the diameter of the threaded part is carried up to the flat underside of the head. Drill a hole in the diamond plate, pass the bolt through, and put a washer and nylock nut on the end. Done. If you don't like the rattle, a rubber washer under the bolt head will work.

Thanks Mike

There are a lot of diffrent options to chose from still looking in to hatches and am planning a dock side splash to observe any issues to start with and fire her up and work out all the bugs as much as posibble and see where i'm at before installing the motor covers and lower floor etc.


Before that can happen i have some holes to close and paint the transome connect some lines and batteries etc.

can see a little light way down at the end of the tunnel but i can't tell how for it is just yet.

Anyone make a galley door out of lexan and how about a removable Lexan panel on the port side next to the door ?

Sure it's been done just hate reinventing the wheel, thanks for any help.


I was looking around on the web for anything door lexan etc. and saw this.


http://www.todddunnmicroyachts.com/2007/bertram31.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Keith: I was skeptical at first, but the diamond plate actually looks really good.

Rawleigh wrote:Keith: I was skeptical at first, but the diamond plate actually looks really good.

Thank you Rawleigh

Keith:

The quality of that last photo is superb. What camera are you using.

it looks neat


but isnt that stuff a bit slippery when it gets wet and slimy? Looks like you will break your ass on it?

Raybo Marine NY wrote:it looks neat


but isnt that stuff a bit slippery when it gets wet and slimy? Looks like you will break your ass on it?

Naw just like the bed of my truck not a problem.

Hueso wrote:Keith:

The quality of that last photo is superb. What camera are you using.

Hue so I can't remember if it was my phone or gopro they both HD

Keith, have you done anything to limit salt water backing up into the turbos? Mufflers, surge tubes or x over style exhaust?

wmachovina wrote:Keith, have you done anything to limit salt water backing up into the turbos? Mufflers, surge tubes or x over style exhaust?

No please tell me more I appreciate the help I've had problems with hydraulic motor before

Kind late 4am wakeup, but search surge tubes. Most cummins installs in 31s have a port engine crossover exhaust to prevent water into the turbo, stbd, just a loop. I think 21 or more inch rise is recommended.forget the exact number. Also mufflers can restrict back flow and surge tubes solve backdown flow problems. Search on the site for better specs..it's all here, thanks to the Capt!

Did some measuring and seems i have at least 12" above the water line.

I'm still going to get some new through hulls with the rubber and metal dampener's and might go for some surge tubes.

i read a few post here after doing a search where the function of the tubes was in question.

My thoughts when looking at them was they reminded me of what we do when doing copper piping to reduce water hammering.

we add the very same type of tube that acts as a shock absorber under pressure to reduce hammering and they work very well and if you think about it i can understand how they could be of help with the water surging.

my opinion is the more prevention the better especially considering i'm going to be lifting on the stern i will have to keep a close eye on this situation.

many thanks again for the heads up you guys are the best.

Side note looks like dock side splash is in order this week hope all goes well checking twice and praying.