bertram31.com

Guess i might be looking for another 31-B not sure but i will figure it out.

I bought two Yanmar 315 with gears shafts props everything they pulled out of the boat with only 110 hours.

I need to finish the 31 i have and sell the skip jack and finish building the tag boat and maybe start the new 31 ?

Going to get a sign for the front yard Poe's Marine.



Today i set the motor mount bolts after rechecking the shaft alignment and bolted the transmission coupler together.
Bolted the motor beds together.
Connected the head plumbing.
Installed the fuel line and fuel vent.
Also relocated the vent and fuel fill location to accommodate for removing the shelf's that use to be around the deck.
Installed the exhaust through hulls and pipes ready for supports.
Started the bilge pump installation but need some 90 through hulls.
Painted the 2 x 14 joist for around the fuel tank on top the stringers for the deck supports.

Next screw down the deck framing finish the bilge pumps and start laying out the deck templates for cutting the 9'x 5' 3/16 Aluminum Diamond Plate decking.

After that dial in the batteries boxes and electrical then motor boxes.

Preparation for sale trial.

Then diamond plate the galley floor and clean inside and talk to an upholstery guy.

After that's done tent the boat for termites and get a marine survey.

A that point start removing the equipment from the Skipjack and install on the Bertram.
Auto pilot, depth sounder, Outriggers,
Then save for a Nextgen.

Look at the AC see if it works and install 2, 1500 Watt halogen lights with dimmers.

Not sure where i'm going to mount the lights ill figure that out next.

I have used about 13.5 gallons of resin so far.

Out of Curiosity what would it cost if i bout a hard wood instead of Douglas fir of about 60' of 4 x 12.

I know one piece of Oak door sill is about 40-50 dollars.

24' of 2 x 14.

50' of 2 x 12.

40' of 2 x 6.

16' of 2 x 4.

24' of 1 x 6.

8' of 4 x 4.

that's 222' of heavy lumber.

I used a lot of over sized lumber for extra support.

We use Douglas fir to build for 110 MPH winds flexing homes and commercial buildings.

Douglas fir has been in my 24' Skip jack for nearly 20 years and still is perfect.

It's used with steel i beams all the time in heavy construction i have always been impressed with it and have never considered using lets say Oak for everything way to expensive and i feel the Douglas fir will be fine on the deck framing for the diamond plate.

I have had my Mercruiser 7.4 MPI with velvet drive on Douglas fir with paint for decades not a problem so far.

The aluminum shims under the motor mounts on the Cummins on the 31-B seem to add a lot of support but if i see any compression i will add angle aluminum to the motor mounts.

I did not do a search can anyone tell me the torque for the transmission coupler connector bolts ?

Any way that was some of the stuff that i thought about after i was asked about using Douglas Fir.

Keith,

I have been following your posts and you are quite a worker! For your deck supports you might want to consider strutural FRP. It is cost effective, very strong and completely rot resistant. I have had zero problems with mine since the initial installation.

http://bertram31.com/newbb/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1494" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Good luck.

Vince

Keith:

If you don't mind, for how much did you get the Yannies 315?

Keith, Dont torque em down till you get her in the water, the alignment will change a bit when the boat is supported by water, not much but need to recheck..keep those vibrations at bay..BH

Thanks you guys

I will recheck in the water and look in to that material.

I'm making 12 payments at 1-K each for the Y-315

All the best

13.5 gallons of resin! That's a lot of glass work. I used about a gallon on mine over the past few months and must have logged 150-200 hours of grinding, glassing and sanding. Glad to be done and following someone elses posts.

Keith:

Amazing numbers. Great buy!

Keith,
Your pushing thru that boat like a tornado...best of luck with her.


You mentioned Halogen lights...I have been playing with LED lights and have to say I can get daylight conditions with very little power consumption. The lights also weigh next to nothing and do not emit the heat you get with halogens and since less power is used, thinner wire and less of a breaker is required...makes install easier.

Kevin wrote:13.5 gallons of resin! That's a lot of glass work. I used about a gallon on mine over the past few months and must have logged 150-200 hours of grinding, glassing and sanding. Glad to be done and following someone elses posts.

Kevin I stepped outside my comfort zone and did some experimenting well at least for me.

I used plywood and rolled the biaxel first or dipped it in the resin and used the latex gloves to smooth everything out and was pleased with the results.


I'm sure all of this is old school to a pro but that I am not.

Hueso wrote:Keith:

Amazing numbers. Great buy!

Yes Hueso that is what inspired me i'm very fortunate.

I talked to the owner on the phone tonight and set up the payments.

Now to figure out what to do with them so many options.

Carl wrote:Keith,
Your pushing thru that boat like a tornado...best of luck with her.


You mentioned Halogen lights...I have been playing with LED lights and have to say I can get daylight conditions with very little power consumption. The lights also weigh next to nothing and do not emit the heat you get with halogens and since less power is used, thinner wire and less of a breaker is required...makes install easier.

Carl i could not have done it with out all the friendship and support from you guys thank you all so very much.

As am example i do not know about LED please school me i would appreciate it very much and start some research tonight.

If possible i would like to skip the 7-K generator and just store my Honda EU-1000 for emergency's.

Going to start with looking in to the power verses watts requirements ?

Vince Luciani wrote:Keith,

I have been following your posts and you are quite a worker! For your deck supports you might want to consider strutural FRP. It is cost effective, very strong and completely rot resistant. I have had zero problems with mine since the initial installation.

http://bertram31.com/newbb/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1494" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Good luck.

Vince

Vince i have been looking in to the FRP

Thank you

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fibre-reinforced_plastic" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


http://www.eplastics.com/Structural-FRP ... s-Profiles" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Did some looking around to match my 3000 watts of halogens and saw this pretty expensive for marine grade.



http://www.beckelectric.com/store/pc/MO ... 70p445.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;









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Did some looking around to match my 300(0) watts of halogens and saw this pretty expensive for marine grade.

Keith,

We've been misled by the lighting industry almost from the start to think in terms of watts as to equal brightness. Watts is the measure of power consumption, lumens is the measure of light production... Watts are used in figuring out the power of lumens and candlepower, but refer only to the energy being used, not the light.

LED light emission is usually given in lumens as opposed to watts in other lights.

The comparrison for an LED vs 300 watt halogen would be 2600 lumens for the LED, which is only 36 watt power draw. LED bulbs require up to five times less wattage than halogen lamps for the same candlepower output, and last up to 10 times as long.

Your link to the 300 watt LED is 25,000 lumens. Needless to say, a bit too bright...

Check around for 2,600 - 3,000 lumen LED floodlights. The price range should be between $100 - $350.

B-reak O-ut A-nother T-housand "Yacht grade" will be about 3 times that price range.

A possible & affordable LED flood, (even if you just wanted to test out for suitability), would be one offered by Amazon.com

http://www.coastalnightlights.com/style ... aders.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Keith,
I have a pair of these for the cockpit of my boat. They will make you see stars. They are mounted under the brow of the bridge so they are only 4 feet above the engines and they illuminate the whole cockpit well (way too much for when you just want to see a little). I would imagine two pairs of these mounted in the right place like up on radar arch or hard top would be pretty sweet. They are relatively cheap also.

Man o man love the power savings thanks guys truly appreciated.

I currently use 2, 1500 watt halogens on dimmers.

The dimmers are great for adjusting to any light level.

The reason i use so much light is to attract plankton and prey then predators at night when i primarily target them and the more light the better and very important at the end game.

Help me get this right how many of these lights will i need to obtain the same lumen's about 10 ?

If i understand correctly that would only be 360 watts ?

Incredible.

Thanks again very much and love the idea of a few under the brow nice.

Can't wait to have a bunch of pictures like this from the 31-B

Hope you have good latches on the engine box!! LOL!
Great pictures.

Rawleigh wrote:Hope you have good latches on the engine box!! LOL!
Great pictures.

No it's cupped under the rail and the box and chair with me in it are about 400#
It's never budged and the drag pressure maxed is only 100#


Great being up where I can see while backing down alone with the AP remote control

That fluke is in a 5 quart cooler, right?

mike ohlstein wrote:That fluke is in a 5 quart cooler, right?

Alaska Prince William Sound think it's about 20# 36". ?

That Humboldt is terrifying!!!!!!!!!

TailhookTom wrote:That Humboldt is terrifying!!!!!!!!!

Roger that they can take a good size chunk out of you.

Catch them at 900' great shark baits.

They were about 100# that day off point conception San Lucia bank using accurate 80 in low all the way up.

CaptPatrick wrote:[A possible & affordable LED flood, (even if you just wanted to test out for suitability), would be one offered by Amazon.com

I got two similar units at Home Depot to be used (initially) as work lights in my ER. Great lights and no heat (to speak of). Similar (300 watt) halogens would heat up my ER to levels it would be uncomfortable working in. I HAVE worked in hot ER's but I'd rather not if I can avoid it :-)

Cool thanks I'll check it out

So i was thinking what if i use a clear section to view what is going on at the dump and maybe a pressure gage before i install the baffles etc. little science project to better under stand the performance of different ideas.

http://www.boroglasstube.com/products_d ... cc489.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;



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