bertram31.com

Just finished installing Alex'x rub rail on our 1965 Sportfish. Here's a summary of our project. Old rail took about 4 1/2 hours to remove. About 85% of the screws could be removed with a screwdriver and a lot of muscle. The rail was thru bolted on each side of the joints and had to be removed by cutting the bolt heads off with a 4" Makita grinder with a metal cutting blade along with the screws that couldn't be removed by hand. The rivets were all in good shape so no refastening of the flange was necessary. We filled the old screw holes and a few gaps in the flange with West System six/10. We pencil marked on the hull the location of each rivet in order to avoid pilot drilling thtu them for the new rail screws. We laid out the location of the new screws being careful to avoid the rivets and not conflict with the screw locations for the stainless pieces. In spite of our best efforts several screws had to be relocated when we installed the stainless. The transom corner miters were a challenge. There is excess rail so you get a couple of shots at getting it right. The first corner took us 2 tries. On the 2nd corner you get one chance at getting the transom piece right since the rail cannot be moved at this point. The side piece has excess lenght so you have a couple shots at getting that miter right. We got that corner right on the first try. The rail fit the hull tight in most places, but there are spots That will definetly need caulking, particularly underneath the transom corners. The new rail makes a helluva difference in the boat appearance. Our boat is in very good condition appearance wise, but that old aluminum rail gave it away as an old boat. Project was well worth it. We're in the process of painting the hull now.

Leo,

Good upgrade!

When you paint the hull, consider painting the PVC guard rail with it... Remove the stainless, scuff the PVC well with 180 grit and prime away. If you're painting the hull a different color from the top sides, make your masking line down the center of the guard rail; the stainless rub rail will hide the transition.

Left unpainted, the PVC will chaulk out, get stained, dirty and be a continual mantenance item.

Might want to file the corners

I am soon to be doing the same job, what size screws did you use to install the rub rail? Did you use 5200 or 4200 under it? The Whittacker guy who sold me mine recommended 5200. Any comments? Capt. Pat, what primer to use on the PVC? Thanks.

Sikaflex®-292

http://usa.sika.com/en/solutions_produc ... 02103.html

Bradley,

White Sikaflex®-291 LOT is a good choice, far better than any 3M product. Use 2" #10 flathead tapping screws for attaching the PVC rail, 1" #8 oval head tapping screws fot the SS rub rail.

Is that the same color ? guess it would not matter if you are painting.

I was the "inside" guy who got to hold the locknuts still while my smarter than me friend had to turn the screwdriver on all the bolts. I still remember fondly the joy of crawing in under the starboard side galley sink and stretching straight out to reach a couple of the bolts fore and aft. Good times -- lots of scars, I might have used a curse word--just once. I used Sikaflex too, nice to have it stay pliable and be removable if need be.

Tom