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Looks great. I do not know, but should that wood be covered in f glass.

I would certainly think so.

Me too!

While I can appreciate the craftsman ship, I believe you over built them, your slightly underpowered as is and adding weight will only cost you knots. You could achieve the same effect of the center supports the aluminum angle. Joe

This is the route that I went, Ipe laminated to the stringers with a mix of epoxy coloidial silca and high density filler.... Clamped them to the stringers, then slathered em up with more of the same epoxy mix and capped them with a welded "u-channel" of 3/8 6061 aluminum and built the ramps according to engine alignment... Consider this as an option before you permanantly install what you have here.... Full and open access to the underside of the engines, can literally change an oil pan without having to pull the engine from the boat... I have 6bta's and this is overkill for me...

Also I would re-fab your raw water intakes... best route to take is a flanged seacock with a nice backing plate then through the hull...

I weighed The new motor beds And the old motor beds and the blocks at each end.
The new motor beds are 30 pounds heavier but I'm sure that will reduce as they dry out.

I would love to rip the whole boat down the hull and start over but I have a lot of project coming up very soon.

I'm going to pull the blocks back out before I put them back in.
I do not have time to fiberglass them.
What would you suggest to bond to the stringer besides bolts and should I paint it and what kind of paint should I use.

Thank you for your help guys

Paint with epoxy. Tinted, if you like....

Keith Poe wrote:I do not have time to fiberglass them.

I think you are asking for trouble if you don't isolate that fir from the hull and seal everything. Bond a piece of cossa (glassed both sides), or an aluminum strip, or a built up fiberglass strip to the bottom sides before you epoxy the beds to the hull. As is, that set up looks like it will be full of rot in a couple of years. You'll need to tab the bed to the hull with a layer or two of biax anyway...i don't see a way to avoid some fiberglass work if you want this set up to last for any time. And it will be a big issue if you ever sell the boat.

For sealing the fir without glass, I would use System Three clear coat epoxy, 3 coats, more on end grain. I would skip the paint because I think you'll be replacing the whole setup is a few years.

and unless im seeing things is there a split on the port side mount forward?

John, Nice job!!!Keith the factory cummins mounts will only give you grief...access is crucial down the road...custom mounts put the engine where YOU want it not, cummins..ask me how I know? Ive already had to make repairs and without modifications to the engine mounts, the water pump is a bitch to remove...took my pump out this week with no problems..when the pump shits the bed 100 miles out... that lil modification will make sure you get home..fir is the way to go, long straight grain and strong..still needs glass and tabbing..BH

Hey whaler 77: Your engines are 6BT's, correct? That's what I have and I plan to construct similar beds. Thanks for the good pics.

Yup, 6B's Stringer caps are 3/8" 6061, ramps are 1/2" 6061

Bob H. wrote:John, Nice job!!!Keith the factory cummins mounts will only give you grief...access is crucial down the road...custom mounts put the engine where YOU want it not, cummins..ask me how I know? Ive already had to make repairs and without modifications to the engine mounts, the water pump is a bitch to remove...took my pump out this week with no problems..when the pump shits the bed 100 miles out... that lil modification will make sure you get home..fir is the way to go, long straight grain and strong..still needs glass and tabbing..BH

Thank you Bob

I'm going to continue forging forward at this point and this summer i might cut the top beam off and install aluminum for better access.

I'll keep a sawzall with me in case i need to cut a portion of the beam off at sea for repairs and I'll look at the pump and posibbly nip some of the beam off now.

All the best.