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Nickel Back

Posted: Nov 2nd, '12, 20:24
by Keith Poe
Hows nickel hold up ?

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Re: Nickel Back

Posted: Nov 4th, '12, 19:22
by Bruce
Are those Engine beds finished and are you aligning the shafts to them or is this just a general fit check and they will be redone cause it looks like they are too narrow for the isolation foot print.

Re: Nickel Back

Posted: Nov 4th, '12, 19:35
by Keith Poe
Bruce wrote:Are those Engine beds finished and are you aligning the shafts to them or is this just a general fit check and they will be redone cause it looks like they are too narrow for the isolation foot print.

Hello Bruce thanks for asking.

They are not finished i'm going to buy the beams tomorrow.

I'm going to use 4 x 12 beams stacked with all thread rod through them to make the beams 23" high cut on an angle to the hull married to the stringers.

Once the 2 inboard motor beds are done i will be using one 4" x 12" beam between the 23" motor beds just behind the galley door threshold connecting the motor beds together.

Aft in front of the fuel tank i will be installing a 23" high by 4" x 12" beam block between the motor beds.


After i do the inner beds i will be grinding and replacing the outer beams then disconnect the shafts and check the angle alignment with a feeler gage and then secure the motor down.

I took a lot of measurements from the hull to the motor and fly bridge to get some general numbers as a general reference before removing the old motor beds.

Just poking my way through as the no choice boat builder fishermen and appreciate any help i hate reinventing the wheel.

The reason i am rebuilding the motor beds so heavy is strength in heavy seas i did not like the old beds bolted through the stringers suspended off the hull seemed unstable to me.

Re: Nickel Back

Posted: Nov 4th, '12, 21:08
by Whaler1777
Those stringers are more than plenty to hold up 4's... Nowhere does it say that you MUST go to the hull bottom, yes it adds strength but is far from necessary... I like the nickle plating... Looks sharp!

Re: Nickel Back

Posted: Nov 4th, '12, 23:55
by Stephan
Keith-
I know of a yacht that had nickel plated interior fittings and a sink in the head. The owner specifically didn't want chrome, he thought it too flashy. I understand he is pleased with how it turned out.
I am not aware of external hardware or anything exposed to exhaust gasses.
Best,
Stephan

Re: Nickel Back

Posted: Nov 5th, '12, 02:24
by Keith Poe
Whaler1777 wrote:Those stringers are more than plenty to hold up 4's... Nowhere does it say that you MUST go to the hull bottom, yes it adds strength but is far from necessary... I like the nickle plating... Looks sharp!

Thank you John

Re: Nickel Back

Posted: Nov 5th, '12, 02:27
by Keith Poe
Stephan wrote:Keith-
I know of a yacht that had nickel plated interior fittings and a sink in the head. The owner specifically didn't want chrome, he thought it too flashy. I understand he is pleased with how it turned out.
I am not aware of external hardware or anything exposed to exhaust gasses.
Best,
Stephan

Thank you for the information Stephan

I asked the guy at the plating shop 35 years in business what he thought would hold up best and he said nickel, i really didn't care so much about the appearance why i did not get them polished just longevity and low maintenance.

Re: Nickel Back

Posted: Nov 5th, '12, 02:33
by Keith Poe
I'm checking in to welding on 3 or 4 " brass bars on to the rudders length and width then plating them with nickel.

Any information on this would be appreciated.

I'm a builder hard hit on the west coast, In a better economy i would buy Captain Patrick rudders.

I saw some at a friends machine shop that look massive S/S super nice custom made one piece with the shaft welded to the S/S rudder plate.

Re: Nickel Back

Posted: Nov 5th, '12, 21:56
by Tony Meola
Keith

You don't want them too big. Otherwise she will over steer. Some place in a very old posting there is a discussion on this.