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Finally got the entire gunwale refabbed, removed the factory ridge, doubled the thickness to 1 1/2" still have the 1" teak covering board to add so in the end total thickness should be around 2 1/2". Second I moved the hawse pipes to the transom and radiused the corners. Ton of work but love the look. Saw it on JPs Chimera..BH

Looks good

Bob, Did you grind down the ridge or build on to it? Looks Good.

Exactly the same lay up I have on Phoenix .21/2" thick from center of pillar all the way around.the problem is the rod holders at 30 degrees thru 21/2" of stock. Msc has extra long hole saws together with long jobber 1/4" guide bit. You will have to make drill jig to maintain that angle (not easy). I am here to help you just pm me.

Pretty impressive. She's gonna' be a beast.

Bob,

Looks great, you planning on fishing a bent butt out of swivel holders for giants with those gunwales?

Pete

bob lico wrote:You will have to make drill jig to maintain that angle (not easy).

Core down as far as possible, break out what's cored and finish up... Been using this rig for decades,

+1 on that angle jig. I used it for all my rod holders. I mounted the jig to a scrap board to allow for clamping.

Bob,that looks really nice,
Might have to borrow that idea.

spencer

CamB25 wrote:+1 on that angle jig. I used it for all my rod holders. I mounted the jig to a scrap board to allow for clamping.

+2
I found that jig helpfull but a little wobbly (I think it was like $15 at Job Lot). I used a thick piece of scrap as a mounting plate for the jig and pre-drilled the scrap checking the pre-drilled hole to make sure it was what I wanted. This way the scrap/mounting plate also acts as a guide.


By the way... Bob should be on the floor laughing as I attempt to give him advise on how to drill a hole!
...Lord, what fools these mortals be!

The truth is the yard had that jig so I put my hole saw in it and it wobble a bit . Ok so now I am " nervous nelly" about to dril a 30 degree angle into million dollar hand picked to match grain Bermise teak and a 1000 hours of labor to have those sexy mitered joints at the transom .the batttery drill binds up after hitting the layed up epoxy. Drill starts smoking ok so I go to Milwaukee 1/2" hole shooter. Ok don't fit in jig soooooo I make new jig that clamps to underside of gunwale but that's Murphy law just deal with it. Bob this is what I call a essential part of a " labor no object 31 Bertram built for your own use!!!!! That 21/2" lay up with teak covering board makes a very important upper support in conjunction with a belly band that is adhered to the hull just above the chine which also is the outer support for the cockpit deck. Now you have two horizontal supports running from transom to main bulkhead. This is we're the 31 Bertram wants to crack like Titanic.jjust forward of engine probably never crack but definite gel cote stress crack and beautiful paint ruin.ok one of the not so talented yard help places the rear adjustable stands at extreme aft at chine and proceed to crank the hell out of it. Next day you get into boat (FBC ) and the saloon door is jammed shut this is the most flexible area of boat and you can see the door Is skewed at least 1/2".take strain off jack stands and you can open door.last week I was going offshore when I found myself between two 60' party boasts going and coming ,at 30 kts. Boat was completely out of water for 20' or so came down hard on crest of wave at mid ship---------- no problem both rails join into 2"deck boat is like a icebreaker trust me. And bob h will be able to take on the perfect storm some day------- built it RIGID.

I havent given much thought to drilling through all that...A jig will be step one for sure...I dont want to f up all that teak I got from Pete Fallon..I do plan on using swivel rodholders across the transom.. Frank I removed the factory lip, built new foam gunwales with two layers of 1708 on each side then plexused that from underneath, held in place with bottle jacks and 2x4s, finished the top and side with coosa to fill the 1/2" lip, then gound down to green glass with 36 grit, another layer of 1708 to tie it all back together, Capt Pat helped with the game plan when he stopped in during his Mystic visit. When you stand on the guwale now it doesnt move a bit, still may make up a few knees to support it from below. BH

Bob definitely do not need knees.when you install teak inbededed in epoxy you can and someone will jump from dock on to mid span of covering boards ,not even the slights bit of flex .to say solid would be a understatement.

bob give some through to placing fuel fill in center of transom ,it keeps the filthy hose off your teak covering boards . when fueling hose hangs off transom out of harms way and boat can be fueled either side equally as well ,must of all fuel hose does not cross vital kill box area.

Bob H

I like the idea of knees, especially knowing that you will be loading those clutch holders with up 70 lbs of drag trying to twist them up and away. Maybe box the bottoms in and tie them direct into the liner. Finish smooth for easy clean up after the mayhem, give you a spot to flush mount the speakers too.


You rolling the covering boards or adding coaming boards?

Looks nice, a few bluefin just starting to show for the fall run down here. Got your driving shoes ready?

Fantastic work Bob.

She is going to be an amzing machine.